Full power in neutral, no power in gear

[bhatch21]

I've been chasing an electrical problem on my 94 banshee. Ran fine one weekend, wouldn't crank the next. Pulled the plugs and found no spark. I unplugged the key switch and jumped the wires and got spark. Put a new key switch on it and it ran 1 time and the key wouldn't cut it off. Checked all the electrical components by the book and came to the CDI. Put a working CDI on it and it cranked up first kick. After warming it up I ran down the strreet and when I came back it started bogging down in gear. I could put it in neutral and rev it fine, but not in gear. I unplugged the TORS box and still the same thing. I unplugged the carb switches and I was able to rev it up in neutral and dump the clutch in gear to make it go. Could it be the e-brake? Everyone talks about removing the e-brake with the TORS, but my bike has no wire on the perch or switch on the brake. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

[wednot5]

I've been chasing an electrical problem on my 94 banshee. Ran fine one weekend, wouldn't crank the next. Pulled the plugs and found no spark. I unplugged the key switch and jumped the wires and got spark. Put a new key switch on it and it ran 1 time and the key wouldn't cut it off. Checked all the electrical components by the book and came to the CDI. Put a working CDI on it and it cranked up first kick. After warming it up I ran down the strreet and when I came back it started bogging down in gear. I could put it in neutral and rev it fine, but not in gear. I unplugged the TORS box and still the same thing. I unplugged the carb switches and I was able to rev it up in neutral and dump the clutch in gear to make it go. Could it be the e-brake? Everyone talks about removing the e-brake with the TORS, but my bike has no wire on the perch or switch on the brake. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

first get rid of the tors then check all the grounds then your carbs

[bhatch21]

The only TORS component left is the throttle switch. I was under the impression that if you unplug the TORS box, that takes the other switches out of the equation. I also tested all the TORS switches per the Clymer manual and they were "good". With the bike idling in neutral I sprayed the carb boots and intake area with ether to check for air leaks. No increase in rpm was noticed.

[gregrob]

Parking Brake

[bhatch21]

Parking Brake

 

Meaning the brake is engaged? I was able to roll it around with the engine off. Is there a brake sensor? If so, where is it at? My old Warrior had one coming off the clutch perch.

[gregrob]

Meaning the brake is engaged? I was able to roll it around with the engine off. Is there a brake sensor? If so, where is it at? My old Warrior had one coming off the clutch perch.

 

 

Yes, meaning the parking brake could be engaged.

 

Couldn't tell you where the sensor is but make sure it's not engaged, and if it is release it lol.

 

could still roll around if the brake isn't adjusted, and most of them aren't.

[Midway USA]

Meaning the brake is engaged? I was able to roll it around with the engine off. Is there a brake sensor? If so, where is it at? My old Warrior had one coming off the clutch perch.

 

Parking brake sensor/switch is on the clutch lever side of the handlebars. When it is hooked up the engine won't RPM if the switch is engaged. On mine all I had to do was unplug the switch and all was well again.

[regalrocket]

Parking brake sensor/switch is on the clutch lever side of the handlebars. When it is hooked up the engine won't RPM if the switch is engaged. On mine all I had to do was unplug the switch and all was well again.

My switch for the parking brake would mess the engine up even with the entire tors system removed. It got wet once and I had to unplug it just to get it to move. It was the last thing plugged in, i figured with the tors box removed that It wouldn;t work, boy was i wrong.

[AKheathen]

sounds like a glazed plug to me. you could switch to a br9. what oil/mix and octane are you runnin?

[dajogejr]

sounds like a glazed plug to me. you could switch to a br9. what oil/mix and octane are you runnin?

 

 

WHAT????

[locogato11283]

WHAT????

maybe its like a glazed donut??

[AKheathen]

WHAT????

haven't you seen glazing before?

[dajogejr]

I'm pretty sure his plug isn't glazed...and changing default plug heat ranges isn't going to solve his problem.

 

It's either a TORS/Electrical issue or an air leak.

I'd bet if he disconnects the wiring plug going to the parking brake, it'll be just fine.

[AKheathen]

I'm pretty sure his plug isn't glazed...and changing default plug heat ranges isn't going to solve his problem.

 

It's either a TORS/Electrical issue or an air leak.

I'd bet if he disconnects the wiring plug going to the parking brake, it'll be just fine.

if you want, i can explain the cause and effects of glazing, and using a hotter plug will prevent it.

talks about removing the e-brake with the TORS, but my bike has no wire on the perch

obviously the wires already removed. however, they may somehow be touching where they were disconnected :shrug:

intermittent electrical problems fixed, and air leak rulled out, maybe drain the fuel and add fresh fuel and good oil to rule that out. then replace the possibly glazed plugs, and see if they possibly glaze again.

they will be a good color and look wet, but you can't wipped them dry.

[2001Stroker]

br9 is a colder plug not a hotter one i thought

That is correct. br7 would be hotter. But, I'm jumpin on the parking brake bandwagon.