To lean to start? only starts with a shot of juice!

[Badapwned]

ok so if i understand correct your needle is on the very bottom clip? start from scratch.. 25 pilot 330 or 340 main since here in MI it is cold and needle in the middle

 

 

The needle clip is on the top position, the leanest. It was breaking up like mid throttle, so I went from middle to top but no change. So I will put it back to middle next time I ride.

 

 

Im sorry if I sound crude, but I just cant start from scratch. I went through every single jet size until where i am now. Any problems I was having have since been solved.

 

The bike has tons of power, I just need to fix the mid throttle break up and this starting issue lol

[firebanshee]

I hate to bother you guys so much, but, if you can help me fix my problem it was worth it for meh!

 

So, the bike sat for a couple weeks, I installed a new timing plate. It is now set at +4 degrees.

 

The bike wont start without getting a shot of carb clean. When it does start, I cannot give it more throttle because it starts starving for more fuel.

 

I could probably keep it running with more carb clean but, not my best idea. Its done this before, I would start it and I could give it no throttle whatsoever until it ran a little bit because it would starve for fuel and die. Its doing the same thing. Doesn't make any sense. Last time I rode it, it would be fine after it ran a little bit.

 

 

It's possible the jets could be clogged, but I doubt it since I have them apart like every frigging day to put bigger jets in.

 

So, I dunno. I just finished syncing the carbs. So, I guess ill go kick some more.

 

Are you positive that you set it at +4 deg,maybe your timing is off and it is not a jetting problem.Did it have this problem before the timing plate.If you are unsure you could slide your stock plate back in and see what happens just to help diagnose problem. Or just advance your new plate more than it is just to see if it changes something.

[Badapwned]

Are you positive that you set it at +4 deg,maybe your timing is off and it is not a jetting problem.Did it have this problem before the timing plate.If you are unsure you could slide your stock plate back in and see what happens just to help diagnose problem. Or just advance your new plate more than it is just to see if it changes something.

 

 

Pretty sure its at +4, I lined correct notch on the plate to the split in the block, isnt that correct?

 

 

I will check it again.

[2001Stroker]

I wonder if it's something stupid, like a blown gasket in the crank case, and it's sucking air in. Just a thought.

 

And yes, you line up the notch with the split in the case.

[Badapwned]

I wonder if it's something stupid, like a blown gasket in the crank case, and it's sucking air in. Just a thought.

 

And yes, you line up the notch with the split in the case.

 

 

 

I hope not lol, the motor was just rebuilt, like maybe 20 hours of ride time.

 

 

It was running great, no hickups at all, I have had this starting issue before, but not this bad I would say.

[locogato11283]

you can keep fucking with your jetting all you want, but you have bigger issues. 35 pilot is way too fuckin big and 380 is pretty uncommon. ive never in my 10 years of being on HQ and fuckin with banshees heard of anyone running anything bigger than a 30 pilot. in very few instances have i heard of guys running 380 mains.

 

you need to step back and figure out whats causing you to run jetting so rich.

[Badapwned]

Well, I am open for ideas.

 

 

I just put new plugs in, took the timing back to +0. Still nothing without a shot of juice from carb clean.

 

 

Im convinced its starving for fuel, not sure why. I have had these carbs apart sooo many times, so many tanks of gas, I doubt the pilots are clogged.

 

 

If your saying its a bad air leak, wouldnt it be causing more problems?

 

 

The bike has ran great with the new jets, it doesnt sputter or try to clean itself out, it takes the gas and goes faster.

 

 

 

I am missing one of the bronze tubes that go into the carbs float bowl, the vertical one. I was told its for my choke, not sure if thats true or not.

 

 

Whats next?

[locogato11283]

well maybe you should get that tube and start there. it could be as simple as that, i dont know.

[regalrocket]

I am new to the banshee world, but I have learned many hard lessons. First off, if you have a fuel situation, pull the carbs, clean them and BLOW all the pasages out (60psi from a compressor). These passages are so tiny, a little tiny piece of dirt can just ruin your month chasing problems. You need good air flow through:

 

Main jet

Pilot Jet

Left carb bowl fuel jet and passages

Choke passageways(both carbs)

Brass tube in left carb feeding choke

 

With all of that blown out, make sure your fuel height is set properly. When you reassemble your carbs, make sure that the hole in the slide is indeed open to the slot in the cable keeper (don't block it off).

 

If all of that is clean, it should fire. I chased problems for a month, nothing i did fixed it. Finally i went threw and blew the carbs out again. INSTANTLY it fired up and ran great. It hase never ran this good. Live and learn.

 

 

A side note, the brass tube extending from the carburator is only required on the choke side carb. if its missing, you probably won't get any fuel to the choke circuit.

Edited November 16, 2008 by regalrocket

[Badapwned]

With all of that blown out, make sure your fuel height is set properly. When you reassemble your carbs, make sure that the hole in the slide is indeed open to the slot in the cable keeper (don't block it off).

 

 

Slot in the cable keeper? Lost me there. I know what the hole in the slide is, and I can see it through the glass on the carb, but the slot in the cable keeper????

 

 

I will blow them out tonight and give it another try. I dont remember which carb is missing the bronze tube, I guess im hoping for the right carb to be the missing one.

 

If I do have to replace the tube what do you recommend?

[speed-racer]

Do a leakdown test before you start changing things. Has it ever started well with that jetting? If your bike really needs jets that size just junk the stock carbs, install some PJs or PWKs and enjoy. Either way, I would still do a leakdown test before anything else. So many people try to jet around mechanical issues and just waste hours of time.

[Badapwned]

regalrocket, I want to have your baby's......

 

 

 

I pulled the carbs, tore them down, cleaned them up with carb clean, put 120 psi to them, put them back together and she fired right up.

 

I would have never guessed.

 

 

I greatly appreciate everyone's help here!!!

 

 

I gotta finish putting the banshee back together and take her for a ride.....

 

 

Accomplishment feels soooooo good!!!!

[Badapwned]

regalrocket, I want to have your baby's......

 

 

 

I pulled the carbs, tore them down, cleaned them up with carb clean, put 120 psi to them, put them back together and she fired right up.

 

I would have never guessed.

 

 

I greatly appreciate everyone's help here!!!

 

 

I gotta finish putting the banshee back together and take her for a ride.....

 

 

Accomplishment feels soooooo good!!!!

[regalrocket]

I rebuilt a top end, replaced a stator and chased my tail for 3 weeks. If I would have cleaned the carbs right the first time, i would have saved alot of frustration. I am glad it worked for ya.

 

The hole in the slide is one that you see when you look inside the slide. Its under the keeper you unscrew to change the needle height. If you put that keeper that holds the needle, and the throttle cable 180 degrees of rotation off, it blocks that hole, and causes some issues I believe, cause it feeds slight vacuum a hole in the carb that is uncovered when the slide is at the bottom. If you look at a carb when its apart and someone shows you it, its very apparent.

Edited November 16, 2008 by regalrocket

[Badapwned]

I rebuilt a top end, replaced a stator and chased my tail for 3 weeks. If I would have cleaned the carbs right the first time, i would have saved alot of frustration. I am glad it worked for ya.

 

The hole in the slide is one that you see when you look inside the slide. Its under the keeper you unscrew to change the needle height. If you put that keeper that holds the needle, and the throttle cable 180 degrees of rotation off, it blocks that hole, and causes some issues I believe, cause it feeds slight vacuum a hole in the carb that is uncovered when the slide is at the bottom. If you look at a carb when its apart and someone shows you it, its very apparent.

 

 

ahh, ya i know what your talking about. I always make sure its not covering the hole when I put it back together.

 

Again, I appreciate the help.