MILO Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 (edited) my '01 shee is due for a rebuild again and i'm sure i'm forgetting something and i'm also sure that you guys can fill in the gaps for me. i'm trying to figure up an estimate for the job. before i list my plans here are my current mods that would apply to the rebuild. - pc pipes - pro-design pro flow intake (foam) - v3's - noss head / 20cc domes - hinson basket/stock hub & p-plate/ tusk kit - elevation 1200' PLANS: - herr jugs aggressive trail port - full rebuild from Herr jugs - bore, hone, piston & rings, everything needed included - welded crank - crank bearings/seals - noss 19cc domes + o-ring set - pro design adj. time plate - probably +4 - of course - clutch cover gasket, oil, new plugs, etc. so am i missing anything. what do i need after splitting the cases? should i just replace the connecting rods while i'm at it? anything else i should do while i'm in there?? :shrug: Edited October 9, 2008 by MILO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BellicoseBanshee Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 HondaBond modeling clay or solder to test squish red and blue locktite New: shift adjust bolt, nut, and lock washer clutch basket lock washer Also: modified shift star F.A.S.T. shift shaft Trinity shift drum Pro Design billet impeller clutch pancake bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted October 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 HondaBondmodeling clay or solder to test squish red and blue locktite New: shift adjust bolt, nut, and lock washer clutch basket lock washer Also: modified shift star F.A.S.T. shift shaft Trinity shift drum Pro Design billet impeller clutch pancake bearing i already have the PD billet impeller, and just looked up the pancake bearing for the clutch also. i'll have to look into the rest of it though. the shift star, shaft, and drum just help to make shifting smoother right? i need to do some research on the 'squish' testing also. i've never done that before but i've heard of it. thanks bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BellicoseBanshee Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 It will shift very smoothly with those three components. Best $$$ you will spend... The shift adjust bolt, nut, and lock washer are cheap, and it is nice to just put new stuff in there. The same with the clutch basket lock washer, cheap enough to just replace. You should be able to search and find the information on squish clearance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbcmudtruck Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 If your going to freshin up your bottom end you should just go ahead and have kevin build you a +4 and port!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Yea your forgetting the 4 mill crank. Might as well do it now so you dont ruin a set of stock port cylinders to have them ported for a stock stroke crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted October 10, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 (edited) so what other changes need to be made if i would go with the 4 mill, beside a few more hundred dollars? i've done simple top end rebuilds, but i'm new to things of that nature. Edited October 10, 2008 by MILO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 so what other changes need to be made if i would go with the 4 mill, beside a few more hundred dollars? i've done simple top end rebuilds, but i'm new to things of that nature. 4 mill long rod stroker crank, a set of 795 Series pistons and a pair of Cut stroker domes for your cool head. Tell the guy doing the porting that your building a 4 mill stroker so he can adjust his port job for it. Usually the port job cost the same amount for a standard stroke or a 4 mill. I believe jeff at fast has about the best price on the crank. 435 for a hot rods 4 mill long rod crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BellicoseBanshee Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 I would spend the extra $85 or so and buy a crank with a TZ bearing installed on the power side. It is easier to buy one already done and worth the extra money, IMO. :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 if i do all of this it will probably be through herr jugs racing, at least that's who i'm planning on at this point. so if i understand it correctly, a 4 mill stroker adds 2 mm to TDC, and 2 mm to BDC, right? thus providing for a larger combustion chamber. porting needs to be matched, need custom domes, & wiseco's to match. ok, so if i go with the 4 mil set up & +4 timing, should i be able to run reg gas, like 93, or will i need 110 or a mix of something? i'm at about 1200', 50-90 temps during my usual riding season. the bill just keeps on growing for this. :happy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BellicoseBanshee Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 if i do all of this it will probably be through herr jugs racing, at least that's who i'm planning on at this point. so if i understand it correctly, a 4 mill stroker adds 2 mm to TDC, and 2 mm to BDC, right? thus providing for a larger combustion chamber. porting needs to be matched, need custom domes, & wiseco's to match. ok, so if i go with the 4 mil set up & +4 timing, should i be able to run reg gas, like 93, or will i need 110 or a mix of something? i'm at about 1200', 50-90 temps during my usual riding season. the bill just keeps on growing for this. :happy: The stroke has nothing to do with combustion chamber size, that is determined by the size dome you use. The 795 pistons are needed for the increased rod length (long rod crank) and the cut domes allow room for the extra stroke (you are correct, with a stock cylinder, the pistons will come out the top of the sleeve about 2mm). You have two choices: run a spacer plate to raise the cylinders 2mm or use domes that are recessed to allow the 2mm clearance required. As far as I know, cut domes is preferred over the spacer plate. The fuel required will be dictated by compression and timing. Basically, with stock timing, you can run up to 160-165ish on premium pump fuel, and with +4 timing you can run 150-155ish on premium pump fuel. If you are interested in HJR, call Kevin and get the run-down from him. He will give you the all the details involved to build one of his ported 4mm engines. As far as the bill, I agree, it does get expensive... EDIT: It has been a long day, so if I missed something, someone can correct me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MILO Posted October 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 ok, thanks for getting me straightened out on all of this. i figured i'd have a good talk with someone from HJR before getting into it, but i didn't want to seem clueless in the discussion either. to somebody of their knowledge level of these things, that probably doesn't take much. thanks again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast500#12 Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 19cc domes wit +4 timing at 1200ft you will need to run 100 or better octane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98_banshee_newbie Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 don't forget engine ice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 15, 2008 Report Share Posted October 15, 2008 ok, thanks for getting me straightened out on all of this. i figured i'd have a good talk with someone from HJR before getting into it, but i didn't want to seem clueless in the discussion either. to somebody of their knowledge level of these things, that probably doesn't take much. thanks again guys. Jeff at fast will has a pretty good price on the stroker crank 435 plus some extra $$ if you decide for a tz bearing on the PTO side. Do like you said on the top end. Get the pistons, domes, and port job from the same guy. He will know what works best for his porting, and what size domes to be able to run +4 deg timing and pump fuel. Just make sure he knows that your building a 4mill long rod stroker so he ports it for the 4 mill crank, and sends you 795 series pistons. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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