Banchetta

If your only riding between 1-3rd gear then you'll hardly ever rev it....High revs means the motor revs higher, but if your tossing between 1st and 3rd gear, then your hardly ever revving for any period of time... most of the time your at the lower of mid of your rpms and climbing to the higher rpms...thats where the mids would shine.....Loose the idea of high revs and get low to mid pipes...I've owned over 7 different pipes and tried just about everything on the market...every pipe has its place and high revs are not yours....

Is your tors still connected?? The tors will retard the timing or even miss every other fire...It'll act like its running on one cylinder but both are working...Sometimes they start and run shitty. Other times it wont' start at all....

I'd like to try one if someone wants me to dyno one and I'll send it back...I also have an extra set of stock carbs if someone wants to trade evenly.....

I'm not sure about the plastic white piece. There shouldn't be a gap between the reeds and the cages at all....I've never seen the white spacer. I'm using dual stage boysens, but they are not the carbon fibers...I still wouldn't think they need that white spacer....I could be wrong though....I'd get some more info before putting it back together...

I bought aftermarket carbs that had a sticker like that...I've never seen a stock carb w/ that sticker....I'd say they are not....

Your spark plugs will always be black under normal riding conditions. The only time they will turn lighter is when you hold it wide open. Thats how you adjust the mains. Run it wide open throtte (wot) for 5-10 seconds in 6th gear, shut it down, coast to a stop, pull the plugs...tan or white is lean, brown is perfect, black is rich...remember the mains ONLY control wot. They have no affect at idle-3/4 throttle openings....thats when the pilots and needles play in..

I think you'll like any mid or low end pipe. Here is my suggestions from most bottom gain to all around gain... 2 into 1 Ptr mids fmf sst's Bills fmf golds Dmc

Damn.....make sure the choke tube is in place, have you done anything to the shee since the last ride out??? maybe air cleaner got wet and froze??? possibly swapped the bowls on the carbs so the choke isn't working?? I need more info on what happened between rides....

The main jet shouldn't affect 1/4 throttle..maybe it just ran so bad that you thought it did??? anyway try richening the air screws instead....if that doesn't help, then try moving the needles up or down....if it run like the choke is on, then clears up after a few seconds at wot then lower the needle. If it just hesitates before powerband then you might want to raise the needle and see how that goes...Also make sure your air cleaner is clean.....will make a big difference on low end response..

Richer and leaner have nothin to do w/ oil mixture. 32:1 is used mostly and is a richer mixture of oil and gas than 40:1...you want to lean out your jetting and not the oil mixture...either pilots or needles. the pilots control off idle and idle while the needles control 1/4-3/4 throttle openings...you have to pull the spring back on the top of the slides and shake the gold clip out and remove the cable from the slide... you can then look into the top of the slide and see two philip screws. Remove them and take the needle out..you'll see a little c-clip on the needle. Move the clip up the needle to lean it out and move the clip down the needle to richen the mixture....

I've ridden both, they are both high rev pipes and I think the T5 is smoother powerband kickin in then the pc pipe...Neither have very good low end. The worst thing I dreaded about the pc pipes is the light switch powerband...drove me nuts...the toomey has a smoother powerband...because of that, I'd pick the T5...My .02 on a non ported shee....

30 degrees colder would make it perfect for the mains now... Bennbb and Nightrider are both dead on....I'd do a plug check for the mains at wot again and readjust. If it still acts up, then try lowering the needles by raising the clip towards the blunt end....one slot will do a lot...

Are you sure you got that choke tube connected in the proper spot...someone else reported they put it on the overflows instead of the choke holes....

Jetting is probably off because of this cold weather that just set in....You have to richen it for the colder weather since the air is denser....1 main jet size for every 15 degrees difference...

Why is one further out then the other.. screw both of them in until seated and turn them out .5 turn and try that. then turn them out to 1 turn from seated and try that..try 1.5, 2, and 2.5 turns out from seated. Find the best setting for throttle response and go from there....make sure your carbs are in sync also..

Most twin pipes sound pretty close to the same and sound shouldn't be that important compared to performance...You like to rev it, but you don't want to lose bottom end!!! Welcome to fantasy land...There is no such thing as a bottom, mid, top end pipe... If your not running much higher than 3rd gear, then a top end pipe is useless and you shouldn't have to Rev it out....sounds to me like you need a low end or midrange pipe a lot better. Excellent throttle response and powerband is always there when you hit the throttle...the high revs will have no power at low rpms and have a narrow powerband so you have to be at peak rpms all the time and constantly shifting....Get either a 2 into 1 pipe (which sound like an Indy car) or a set of midrange pipes like PTR mids... The 2 into 1 pipe will give you more low end and equivilent to stock top end. The midrange pipes will give you a little more all around from bottom to top over stock....

I always thought the older shees were 28's and the newer ones were 26's.. not sure though...

Try a 240 or 250 to start..

If its not connected then it could be the one.. It connects the two carbs in the middle of the carbs...1/4" x 2" long...

If the floats were stickin then the gas wouldn't come out of the overflows.....make sure you have spark..

You shouldn't need to run the air screws out 2 turns unless your pilots are too rich. I'd drop to a 27.5 and readjust the air screws. Probably see a big difference in throttle response to...

Might want a richer main (300) to start, but everything else sounds mint...Good starting point as long as you have an open air box w/ an aftermarket filter...the cover on will drop the mains to around 280 and stock filter around a 270...Air box mods make a big difference.

He was thinking of Alba also. I'll talk to him about that also..Thanks for that info...Right now I just have cheap sand devils. V-shaped. But fairly new....The -2 swingarm is fine as long as I'm rolling, I just have a hard time w/ the paddles if we are dragging up the hills from a dead start at the bottom of the hill.....Or do you guys think this will still be a problem on those bigger hills??? If I have to, I'll put my shitty stocker back on....

I'll know more after the weekend. I have a bunch of friends that have been wanting to do this, but never got together. I don't think too many will go, but I'll ask anyway...I know Danny will go for sure and I'll see if there's anyone else. I'm going to start planning next week, no doubt. You know me, I'm all about big hills!!!!! Do we need flags??

Are you guys nuts!!!! My shee wheelies 10x better now.... You can ride wheelies at the balancing point at 10' oclock vs the stock swingarm you have to be more 12' oclock.....I think the biggest help was the shee has too much power for wheelies. Even my shorter swingarm, I find the rear tires spinning under me while I'm in a wheelie even in 5th gear....I had a hard time doing wheelies for over 500' before, now I can ride them forever if I can get it around a corner....Its not that I can't do wheelies either. I can ride my streetbike for over 3 miles around corners and switching lanes....shorter swingarms kickass for wheelies amongst everything else. The only downfall is running paddles in the sand on VERY steep hills...