Banchetta

I live in Saco, I'll be riding down towards Wells maybe this weekend. I'm the one w/ the purple shee that used to ride in Dayton...

So whats the deal w/ you?? I tried calling you tonight, but the phone would die after the 4th ring. You must be out of range....ARe you going?????

Hold on.....one, two, three, four, five.......nope, still have them....

You shouldn't have to turn out your idle that much. Your pilots are way off. I'm guessing your too rich on the pilots. How does it start when cold? w/ or w/o the choke? How does it start when warm? Does the air screws like to be .5 turn out or 2 turns out? (throttle response)

I'd start w/ a 280 main at that elevation. You'll be too rich w/ anything larger. I'd also stay w/ the stock pilot. RAise the needles to the 4th clip from the blunt end...You'll get great gains w/o the lid. You can even mod the lid by cutting the last 1.5" off the end right behing the clips so you still have all four...Works really great..takes about 2 seconds to do the mod w/ a skill saw.... Just don't cut your fingers..

Do a plug check, then try adjusting the needles..

I ended up taking off my stock modified head for the stroker and had Dave at Noss make me some stroker domes. I increased my compression from 158psi to 185psi and had a different shape dome put in for a broader powerband. I haven't put the shee on the dyno since my head change, but it definately made a huge difference. I told Fixitrod about this and he bought a head for his stroker to. Fixed his problem and then some. Not to say thats your problem, my shee only fell on its face at that rpm, if I kept the rpms up, then I had no problem w/ response, but when I let the rpms back down and hit it. It'd fall on its face and piss me off...as you can see w/ my originally graph, I'm not used to dead spots.... A lot of times a lean needle will cause that hesitation before powerband like your saying. Have you tried raising the needles? Also, most high rev pipes or dune porting changes the port timing which will make your power move to the higher rpms causing that dip before the powerband since the port timing is no longer matching the pipe....increasing compression can help get the port timing back in play w/ the pipe. The increased compression accelerates combustion speed and will change the timing of everything....Its the one thing that a lot of builders don't compensate for which in turn should tell you something.... so if you ever want to see how much builder knows then ask him what he needs for info from you to build you a motor....he should be asking you what kind of fuel your running, compression you want to run, compression he suggest, riding style, what kind of pipes your running, carbs, timing, etc..It ALL plays a part. Sorry for the book...

Sounds like your not getting enough fuel on the mains...but that sounds like a pretty good size main...I don't have a lot of knowledge w/ the 2 into 1 setup. If you can't get enough fuel by the needles then do like sredish suggested and go from there...you can only get so much fuel through the gooseneck which the needle sits into. No matter how big the main is, if the needle won't allow anymore fuel than a 200 main through that gooseneck, then a larger main will do nothing. You could also try raising the needle another notch.

pm sent..

I'm running 300 mains, needle all the way up (5th clip from the blunt end), stock pilots, air screws .5 turn out...this is at sea level, k&n, no air box lid or cut the end of the lid off (1.5" right behind the clips so you still have all 4 clips) make sure you don't over oil your filter and sync your carbs....you should have NNNOOOOOO bogs at all w/ these pipes..if you do, then list ALL your mods, elevation, temp, etc...gearing, tires, tire size...

Its a matter of jetting, porting, pipes, and the combination of it all will give you great throttle response....Tooo big of a carb w/ no porting will cause poor response, so you need to find out what you have.

I'd go to stock pilots. I jetting in a shee w/ T5's and found the stock pilots to work the best. Started up first kick every time. Make sure your carbs are synced and you dont' swap your carb bowls. (left and right) only one has a tube in the bowl w/ a jet for the choke carb......

300 mains, needle 5th clip from blunt end, stock pilots, sea level.

I'd stick w/ the fmf fatties...A lot of builders like those the best for heavy mods. You might gain a little more revs w/ CPI's, but the fmfs are more ridable and have more low end for on/off throttle situations....save your money.

This is w/ the stroker.

I have no dip...

Timing doesn't create that dip, its port timing that caused it, not ignition timing....as far as jetting on the dyno, its always worked for me, but I do all the testing. no one touches my shee...I wouldn't trust anyone to jet in my shee. Most tuners in these shops don't know shit. Just keep that in mind. They might give you another 1-2 hp and just give up and collect your $120 when you have another 5hp still there to be released....You can't jet in a shee in a half hour on a dyno. I've always had to change my jets at least 3 times, one for a base, one size leaner and see if it likes it or hates it, then you either go leaner or richer, but you'll have to make several runs to find out. The tuner will have over an hour or two just changing jets...Just be careful, and watch em.

who said the mains are in the top, i said in the bowl. I was referring to william, not you....

I just bought a +4 on ebay last week, but pm Rod, I never got the pm from you, so Rod probably didn't either.....A +6 huh..... smells like someone is hooking up alky!!!!

The jets are in the bottom of the carb, not the top. Although you can adjust needle height by pulling the spring back on the carb top, shake the gold clip out, disconnect the cable, then undo the 2 philip screws, you'll see slots on the top of the needle w/ a c-clip for adjusting height. You can benefit great power gains by adjusting these as well as main and pilot jets....stay w/ it. you'll get it..

The toomeys have better low end, the pc's have that light switch powerband that hits really hard...

sanding won't hurt it, the black is just a tephlon to make it more slippery. when you dropped it, you must have egg-shaped it or made a burr on an edge...if you egg-shaped it, then I'd get a new slide.

sounds good

Sounds good, where in wells?

I noticed you didn't pm me or Rod!!! I think someone is SCARED!!!!!!