Banchetta

If I was you, I'd wait for me to get this shee together like what I'm looking for, most likely it will be perfect for you. No need of both of us blowing our money. W/ the dyno that I've showed you, its doesn't do shit, even on the big hills. I'd rather gear up my old setup and keep it in second. My new setup seems like it has no broadness. I peak out at the touch of the throttle and blazing tires. You need the peak torque to stay low. My new setup keeps the torque in the higher rpms, so my tires just want to blaze over all the time.....Either wait or do your homework. I'm going to Glamis in Feb. You guys should go, we have over 48 quads going from the east coast alone..

Well, your on the same quest as me. I've seen dyno charts from a Duncan shee at the pikes peak challenge and was very impressed. Very smooth and broad. I'm thinking of send them my cylinders. Whats your plans?? 300-400' is quite a stretch. I can see why your looking for more pull and longer gearing.. My old setup was 53hp, Ptr mids, 165psi, boysen petals, stock carbs, +4 timing, 16/42 gears, topped out at 88mph, but that was beside my new p/u which isn't that accurate. This setup was perfect also for me, but only w/ 75-150' hills, any higher and I was peaking out w/ no rpms left, but not enough power for another gear...the quest goes on......

As long as you don't let off the throttle, then higher revving motors work nicely, but the hill climbing we have is on/off throttle, bumpy w/ jumps, so my stroker won't kick into powerband after I let off the throttle, I have to clutch it, thats never a good thing going up 70-80 degree vertical, hitting bumps and jumps... I like my top end power and my motor isn't bad after 6000 rpms, its just when my rpms fall below it. I lose confidence in my shee...HOw tall are these hills?? Over 200'?

I only had 51-53hp depending on the day w/ my old setup and loved it, just wanted a little more. I got the more, but hate the erratic curve. Especially the dip, I got a lot that worked out now, and need another dyno to see what the curve looks like, I'm guessing less hp , but smoother. Pretty sad for a stroker.

I can go all day on this. Lets do this easier. What do you have for mods, elevation, temp...also include air box mods, filter, etc..

going to a stroker??? how much hp did you get on the dyno?

Get some 270-280 mains if you run the air box cover on, You can cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid to get more air in there. I suggest it. Then you can run a 290 mains, raise the needles to the 4th or 5th clip, try both and decide which setting pulls best, it should the 4th setting w/ aftermarket reeds or the 5th setting w/ stock reeds. Keep the stock pilot, adjust air screws to throttle response. Absolutely buy the K&N w/ adaptor plate, very important. The stock filter will allow sand inbetween the filter and box and eventually destroy the pistons..$90 filter setup is cheaper than $300 rebuild...good luck

You have an air leak if its revving. Find it. spray some wd40 around the boots to see if it revs, if it does then you have a leak around the gaskets or a cracked intake boot..if you don't find anything, the do a leakdown test..

ARe you guys running a stroker or just stock cranks? I'm even thinking about throwing my other cylinders on w/ stock porting just for the hell of it, but I need different pistons...

Try this for a start: 300 mains, needle 4th clip from the blunt end, 30 pilots, make sure you clean the carbs out w/ compressed air....your carbs might be plugged up...let me know how that works...also make sure you have the choke tube in place between the carbs (1/4"x2" long), then make sure the carb slides aren't in backwards (cutaway should face the air box) if they are wrong, then you have the wrong slide in the wrong carb, just change them over...

You'll have to go up 2 sizes on the mains if you cut or take the air box lid off. You'll gain a couple more ponies. You also might want to try the 5th clip on the needles if you mod the lid or take it off...

4000rpms!!!!!! Can gorr fix the passion porting? Or did you have to buy different cylinders? I have another set of cylinders, but are bored .60 over. I can resleeve those if I have to. I'd send him those cylinders in a heartbeat if he could make my shee come in at 4 grand. Dyno sheets????

I knew I could make you feel better....

A banshee can be one mean trail machine and hill climber...Get rid of about 90% of aftermarket pipes out of your head and stick to low end or midrange pipes. The power is unbelievably smooth and hard pullin. Go w/ Pt mids since you ride dunes also, I'd go w/ twin midrange pipes instead of the 2 into 1 pipe...Put a 15 tooth front sprocket on, NOss head 21cc domes, +4 timing, -2 swingarm, front shocks (whatever you can afford, they all work 200% better than stock) and move your foot pegs back 2", cut the shifter 2" shorter along w/ the brake lever...NOw you will have a trail quad that'll take you to the limits..Yes, the Pt's are more money than most other pipes, but I guarantee you that'll you never ride another shee w/ a power band like those have...

Ok, well I spent 1500 for a stroker, then another 1500 in additional mods to get it to run right, which I had to do on my own, and I don't blame my builder, BUT I asked for more low end, crisp throttle response, strong midrange.....my stock cylinders, w head mods puts out more low end hp and torque below 6000rpms...how does a builder or me fuck that up, when I've tried 4 different size carbs, ran over 40 hours on a dyno testing and tuning, all summer field testing and jetting, tried pyramids reeds, deltas, larger intakes, reed spacers, now I just bought some different pipes....when does it end????? NO matter what mods I put on in any combination, I cannot get back my power below 6000rpms, never mind gain over what I had....so YES, my builder is responsible when I deeply concerned him that I did NOT want to lose any low end and wanted more, and that I didn't care about top end.....you still think its my fault? I understand the predicament they are in, but if they don't know how to port for low end, then DON'T ruin someone else's cylinders.....least he could do is swap me back another set of stock cylinders and give me back my money..

When I had a 27.5, my shee started first kick like you said w/o choke, but my throttle response wasn't as crisp even adjusting the air screws, so I decided to kick the shee over 2-3 kicks w/ the choke and have better throttle response...every shee is different according to pipes, elevation, temp, etc, so you might find the opposite, try a 27.5 maybe your jumping too much at once..

At least Jim wanted to try a swap, thats more than what my builder has done for me. Not even on the phone, he just looks at me, speechless. After I ask him about the porting specs, he sais. "well......it's a basic mx port out of a book..." WTF!!!!! BASIC!!!! yea basic bullshit....I asked him if you could change something..." what do you want me to do??" is what he ask me...... Suddenly I feel like I know more than he does....Alright, I'm done crying now.. Time to get another plan together to wip Rods ass!!!

no, especially cold. A rich pilot will suffer throttle response as well as a lean pilot, so there is something to look at also. A really rich pilot will load up the motor when idling and you'll find yourself revving it out to clean it out.

Jetting is trial and error. Whatever works best for your shee. Hows the throttle response? The air screws fine tune the mixture for your pilots, so yes it is normal for your shee to run better at a different air screw adjustment w/ different pilots.

If you want a lot of low end w/ great top end. then go w/ Ptr mids. They pull way better on top then stock and give more low end and midrange than any other twin pipe on the market..For all around power you can't beat them.

Your builder sais it might not be running right because its getting too hot and hasn't recommended you to go larger on the mains???? I'd fire him....I had 310 mains in my stroker when I first put it together. I made one run on the dyno and started melting my powercoating on my pipes. I went to 370's and gained another 10hp...your running way too lean. I'd check your compression to make sure you haven't done any damage to your cylinders....

I can completely understand what Loco is going through. I had a motor that I absolutely loved and decided to get more power. I went w/ a local porter that was very reputable. I had him port it, stroke it,etc. He promised more bottom end, more torque, blah blah blah.....Well, I put the motor in the frame and hated it. Spent about another 1200 in mods and finally got rid of my dead spot w/ a set of heads from Noss. (thanks Dave!!!). But reality was that my builder had no answers for me either. I was like "what the fuck". Now I've tried a few other strokers and mine is one of the slowest. Now I'm thinking of having someone report my cylinders...my builder promised more low end, but I actually lost low end. My hp is only better from 7000rpms and higher where my old setup had more low end below 6500rpms. Same as the torque...how does a builder fuck that up??? NOt to say is doesn't know what he's talking about, but I know what loco is going through....maybe some people have different meanings for low end, I don't know. I guess we weren't on the same page, but my builder won't even try to reconfigure my porting. He's lost....It just sucks spending over 3000 in a motor to get another 10hp at peak rpms but lost 5hp on the bottom where I need it the most...I to do alot of technical hill climbing where low end and throttle response is crutial. Most people just look for top end, but I'd love to find someone that could build a motor from hell w/ lots of bottom and smooth power to the top...I"m done rambling now, just thought I'd throw in my experience and dissappointments of my builder...

I agree w/ Sredish. Porting can be very different w/ different builders. I'd start w/ 330's and try different needle clip positions. Read your plugs, they tell all.