Cotton eyed Joe

Ok I'll imagine it. I just shat myself.

I dunno, I found my CBR engine in the mail box. I had one shipped from K&K for $70 through UPS, but I'm sure they ship a fuck ton of stuff so they'd get a deal on it. I'd say Go GreyHound and leave the shipping to them.

http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Product_De...tv?pid=00036078 They are a tapered bar. The only way to taper it is to have it "bulge" in the middle, then its rolled down to 7/8" to fit the standard size grips and controls. Being tapered and mandrel bent makes them stronger than a stock bar.

I like that avatar. lol....

Protapers are going to be a 1 1/8" bar. You will need an adapter to mount them to the stock 7/8" receiving end on the steering stem.

Agreed. Don't worry about getting a deal on them either. Just go to the Yama dealer tell them "Seal Kit for 19XX Banshee Front/Rear Brakes" I just did mine last year, and it was about $7.00 per caliper for 2-3 seals. Not bad. Just follow the directions in the Clymers manual, as they are VERY important.

LOL Looks like he nailed you on that one. Time to put a link to the CR500Banshee up.

lol...starting fluid helps though....

I don't know anything about the G-Force axle. In fact I've never heard of them. If its a replacement axle, you need all of your hubs, and some lock nuts. If it doesn't specify its a replacement axle, then they should specify that you have to use their hubs. To take off the axle you need to take off the wheel hubs. They are splined, so you should be able to tap them off once you take off the hub nuts. Then take off the sprocket hub. Same thing. Splined, so it should tap off. Then you need to slide the axle out of the carrier. The stock carrier can be tough to get the axle out of. Then take the brake hub off. When putting the new axle back on, do everything listed in reverse order, and be sure to torque the axle nuts if you use 2. If you use a lock nut, just make sure its on there good.

From personal experience working with heat treated materials I wouldn't try to straighten it. This weekend we had some case hardened parts (not hard all the way through) that needed to be straightened about .020 is all. 5 of them shattered like glass. Some flexed, some didn't, it just depended on the grain of the material and how much bend it had going through heat treat. My advise is get a new axle. Don't risk your saftey.

They're all the same from 90 and up. The only thing that will change is how much property tax or registration you pay. I had a 98 frame, wrecked it, bought a 2000 frame, and my registration nearly doubled. If I were to do it again, I'd find a 98 or older or buy a factory frame without a VIN number.

lmfao My wife pops my zit from time to time.

I run Tag2 CR-Lo bend.

Thats how I started, and now all thats left is the swing arm mount and the a arm mounts. I built the rest of it around the engine. You could go that route though, just get a used junker relatively straight frame and chop it. All the geometry is there so if you keep it square n shit it should work out. Just take your time and plan things out before you chop. And I would suggest a 3" cut off wheel and a hack saw blade for the intracate stuff. You don't want to blast it with a torch then have to try to mate a tube to this scabby burned up shit.

Like Lepew said its gonna have to come from your head. No way in hell is LSR going to send ANYONE a print of their frames. Not when they can sell them at the prices they sell them at. I know on my little project I'm building I've got 30 hours plus in bending, CAD work, re-work, etc. and its no where near done yet. Thats why I plan on selling a few of them when I get them done. Lots of time goes into R&D and I would bet 100% of the companies wouldn't give you the prints to what they build unless you were willing to buy the company outright. Look around, and talk to a few people. There are plenty of knowledgable people here at the HQ that can point you in the right direction, and of course, use your head. If you think it needs a gusset, put one in. If you don't like it, chop it out and re do it until its how you think it needs to be.

At least that fuckin bum Karl Malone retired, and didn't come back to the Jazz.

I happen to have one head light that I don't need. Great condition $25 shipped.

Thats what I liked about the HEIM rod ends. I am making my own tapered stud that will fit the banshee steering knuckle, and when the time comes, I can just make a different stud to fit a different taper for a different bike rather than try to find a ball joint with a similar taper.

Walt is probably one of the most helpful individuals I've encountered in the 7 years I've been a member here. He went out of his way to call my shop when I was having problems bleeding my front brakes, he sent me "a couple" of good parts that I needed before Roostfest for $0.00 and then when I got there he lent me a stainless grill, and then when I went to give it back to him he said "Ah..keep it." I've asked him a dozen times what he wants for it....usually says "One day maybe I'll need something." All I know is when RF'06 comes around I'll be there.

That would be called the "boundry layer" http://www.soton.ac.uk/Racing/Greenpower/BoundaryLayers/

Correct. Only it doesn't "spread the gas" or anything...what it does is causes turbulence that causes the air/fuel mixture to mix into a more even emulsion. But I dunno...I could be wrong.

I'd say jet up about 35 sizes.

I'm doing some prototyping with my +2+1 a-arms, and HEIM rod ends look to be strong enough, and honestly aren't that expensive to replace. Granted they aren't sealed like a ball joint, and you must consider that if its something you feel like replacing when it needs it, and if you get a HEIM with a grease zyrk, the load ratings don't apply due to reduced surface area on the ball portion of the rod end. It has a grease line milled around the race so the grease can flow around it. So we won't be using the greasable rod ends anytime soon.