Yaxy

Well my 89 is due for a new clutch basket and from what I have seen I only get the basket not the gear that the basket is attached to. I assume that first I need to drill out the rivets that hold the basket to the gear but how do I attach the new basket to the gear? I can also assume that the assembly would have to be balanced and symetrical to reduce vibration. Any suggestions? Chris

I used to have reed spacers but it was to much of a pain to get the carbs on so I took them off. For me I had to remove the silencers to get enough free play to get the air box back on which was the only way that I had found to do it without killing your fingers. I guess cutting the front of the air box would work also., but I never tried it. Chris

In central NY (Utica area) where I am from (800 - 1200ft assumption where I ride) I use 20 pilots and 280 mains on the 28 flatslides with the air box lid on and 4 1/2 inch holes. At one time I did run 15 pilots when I had the pro-design intake but had to go up to a 20 when removed. Every machine is different so make small incremetneal changes ideally at your ideal riding temeperature and atltitude. PS. It never hurts to be a little on the rich side. Chris 89 full mod

I bought a pair of Ohlins for my 89 in 98 and they are great. At the time they did not have the comp and reb fronts but they still work awesome. The ride quality is excellent and even with just the preload on my fronts the adjustments are very sensitive. When I put some new ones on my 04 I will get the comp and reb fronts. The back is incredible and has full adjustment. The thing is sweet in the woops and if you are fast trail riding and slam into a nasty bump the rear end just sits, not hop. This suspsension has saved my ass a bunch times and to me they still are one of the best for the hard trail and rec rider. If you motocross i would get them set up for you. My fronts tend to rebound to fast if the preload is to full stiffness. The back though I have at least 2 inches to stiffen up the preload and I don't even adjust it when I occasionally hit the track. I weigh 190lbs. I can't talk highly enough about the rear shock and can"t wait to try the new fronts next year. Chris

Banchetta; You are right on the money, you labled my type of riding exactly. I do like the FMF's. I have had the bike and pipes for 13 years so I am used to it. By reading yours and Blue Deuces responses I will have to go with the FMF's or the PT. I am on and off the gas alot and rarely have an issue of having to shift down alot to accelerate. I ususlly run a gear higher becasue the torque is there when I need it without using the clutch. The Torque my set up has works really good for trails and the dunes. Instant throttle response and even if I am not in poweband the bike will still pull well until it hits. So thanks once again. Do you think the PT's are worth the $200.00 extra? and do you know if FMF makes their silencers without those down spouts? Chris

Blue Duece; Fill me in on how good your set-up works. I have the saem setup as I mentioned above except I have FMF's. It pulls hard early and comes on quick and has a good amount of power on top but just kind of winds with no more scoot to her, But I do like the way it accelerates in which you know you are riding a 2 stroke when you want it to be and that I can ride it like a 4-stroke in the woods. From what I have been reading in this post I don't know what to get. Many seem to emphasize PT, But I do alot of fast trail riding 50 - 60 MPH in which I can keep her in 6th and just go. I Know everyone has there opinions and I was basing by favortism towards PC, off of a Dyno reading that I seen which said that the pipe would be a good MX pipe because it comes on hard and quick, but pulls a ways on top also. When I run wide open it usually isnt for more than 5 to 10 seconds at 70 or so, so I don't want a pipe that only produces more as I hold here open for long periods of time. I may just take my FMF off my 89 and put on my 04, and if I like than I may just stick with FMF. Any experience with the SST on a full mod? Chris

BansheeBrian; How do you define good set up? and for what type of riding? The 04 will have the following mods. MX Porting Coolhead Vforce 28 flatslides Pipes ???????????????? Chris

Blue Deuce; From my expereince if you took a new plug put it in your machine and ran it wide open took the plug out you would not have any reading on it unless you were running so much oil that that the bike wouldn't run correctly. By using a plug that has some miles on it the plug will already have some form of color/carbon on the tip and resignator that you would be able to get more of an accurate reading. But as I mentioned this is what I have learned from my experiences.,and plug chops. Chris

Banchetta; Sorry if I confused you. My 89 Banshee has great throttle respnse from idling in 2nd put it to the bar and it goes there is no hesitation. I run rich on the pilot circuit which helps alot on the bottom end. As you described I have the old Gold series pipes (1990) and they appear to be really good for what I ride. On a pecentage basis I ride the following Woods riding (tight seasonal roads) max to 40 mph, 35 % of the time Fast seasonal road riding 60 mph 45 % of the time Sand pits and dunes 30% of the time I called FMF last summer and they said that the old Gold series are the same as the Fatty's. If this is the case I want either these or PT's I just don't know if the $200 difference is worth it for the PT's and because what I have been reading the PT's really smooth out the powerband. I really want the hit that I currently have. Up here in NY popular tire are holeshots or Turf tamers so I may see tire spin as good low end because traction isn't the best with these types of tires on a gravel or sand base. And god do I hate the down spouts on the FMF's does anyone run new FMF silencers withour them and now is the noise level? Chris

I would take the head off or look at the pistons and cylinders through the exhaust port to see any damage. As far as jetting goes most recommend richining up the main, but not all machines are the same. On my 89 Banshee which is a full mod Coolhead Porting stock carbs FMF pipes V-force I never had to rejet ran stock 200 mains the bike burned clean and never had any issues. Chris PS when you do a plug chop use old plugs. Using new plugs will not give you an adequate reading. I have seen plugs go for hours and look like they just came out of the box, and trust me my bike runs rich.

How do the PC's compare to the FMF which is what I currently use. My current powerband comes on quick and hard and I can put at 30 in 6th hit the gas and go. I hardly ever have to feather the clutch or shift down unless I need quick excelleration. I like the fact that my FMF (GOld series) hit quick and hard but when I open ride it feels like I am always wanting an extra gear. We mostly seasonal road ride or sand pit ride, with some trails, not very tight, in which I can get into 4th, and 5th gear. In such a situation I ride the bike like a 4 stroke and can keep it a gear high in the woods hit a tight corner in 2nd go into a crawl and hit the gas and gone, no hesitation no clutching. So for all I know I may be going back to a FMF or maybe a PT. I guess I just want to take advantages of my mods with a good low to mid pipe but not loose top end power, Top end speed is not supercrititcal, A to B is important. I was under the interpretation that A PT would not work adequately on a full mod Banshee, but Hell if Duncan uses them on there Banshees then I guess it may be the way to go. I want a powerband that is typical of a Banshee, What I don't want is a powerband like a 4 stroke I want it to hit down low and rip the tires loose. Currently the faster I shift the faster I go which means getting in to powerband quick 1st through 5th gear is critical. Will I have this type of Hit with the PT on a full mod?? Chris

How do the PC's work on a mildly ported Banshsee? Chris

From the way it sounds PC's are just what I would want. It appears they are a mid to top pipe but with a little help they will work really well down low. The 04 will be a replica of my current 89 which has nice compliments to low end, (Vforce, 28 flatslides, cool head and MX porting) From what it sounds like I will have a good bottom end that comes on early and hard and has a bit more pull on top then my FMF's and for the extra $150.00 or so that I would be saving then that is really good. PC sounds perfect just what I want. Chris

Great ideas guys. They all sound like they would do the trick. What if I drill an inch or two hole into the bolt on both ends and put grease fittings in both ends. I could then drill a hole in bolt ends an inch or two in where the bearings are. Thus the grease would have a minumim ways to travel and would go directly onto the bearings. I would probably to have to gind a groove or put three holes in the tube to make sure the greese would go into the bearigns when the greased??? Chris

Thanks for the replys's thus far. My assumption that PC would be a good but not the best low end pipe I got from the Dirt wheels 02 comparison and the Angelfire site that National Banshee recommended. I based my reasoning on looking at all the DYNO's and looked at HP for 4,5,6,7000 RPM. PT was the best, PSI was really close and PC was next. If I recall at about 6000 PC was about 4 HP off from the PT, but PC kept climbing. The caption said under the chart that the PC would also be a good MX pipe because it comes on hard and quick, (rapid accelaration) My curent FMF have good low end but this maybe because the tires light up so fast and spin that the low end just feels good. I run turf tamers so wheel spin will help the low end. Plus the Vforce, porting, head and 28 will help a ton on throttle response/low end. As far as top end pipe there is a fella who drag races all over upstate NY and is one of the best around. He uses CPI, but if not he said he would run PC's no questions asked. He has access to a Dyno and he said you would be so surprised the capabilites of PC and how they just pull, pull, pull, and he runs 300ft strips. Please keep the responses coming. Chris

Has anyone installed a grease fitting into there stock Banshee swingarm on the pivot section? I can't keep bearings and the shafts from rusting and seizing after 4 months. It appears that it will easy to do just where and how many should I put in. I feel the best would be in the center, but would it end up hittign the motor or shock? Chris

I am purchasing a 04 Banshee in the spring and am looking for thre real deal on PC Pipes. While reading the forums the past few months it appears that picking a set of pipes is harder then pulling teeth. IN Nov Dirtweels comparison the PC ranked close to PT and PSI for Low end but had a much beter top end (RPM vs HP)After reading some opinions I get the feeling that people think they are more of a top end pipe. Right now I have a 89, with MX port, FMF(1990) Coolhead, VForce 28 flatsides. The 04 will be set up the same except pipes. I mostly ride trails and seasonal roads and some dunes. My current powerband is a light swith with a low end that I can run a gear high in the woods and have no problem keeping up with Raptors. I want the same lightswith down low on the RPM range with a bit more top end pull than my FMF's. For me it is more important that the machine accelarates quickly from 0-70 and 30 to 70 than soemthing that I need to run for a mile to see a benefit. Ok does PC sound like what I want? Chris

PSD 1 I have a RAD carrier and have had the same problem. The problem I always have is that the spacers they gave me which they claim are the right ones that go between t the carrier and the brake caliper are to short thus I have to shimmy them up to get the caliper on. If the caliper doesn't sit right, the brakes rub almost like the parling break is on. my suggestion. Take the brake caliper off the carrier or just loosen the caliper bolts. If the axle now spins freely the brakes aren't sittign right on the roter thus you have no wheel spin. If so good luck now you will have to get really lucky, at least that is what I have always exeperienced. Pads every three months.

Nope; They are supposd to be pretty decent from what I have seen. The dirtwheels report last years also seemed prety pleased with them. I have a 89 Banshee that was ported by PSI back in 98 and the bike runs sweet and the ports are smooth and perfect. A great running machine. Nevere given me any motor problems Chris

It is confusing to understand what is best. Ideally we all want to buy the best set of pipes for our mods and riding. I currently have a 89 banshee that I have had since 90. I have a mx port, FMF Powercore pipes and silencers from 1990, a cool head, V-Force and 28 flat sides. YOu can chug the bike all day in the woods. I actaully ride it like a Raptor a gear high go into a corner and nail it. Even before the powerband the lowend is good and I have no problem keeping up with raptors in the woods. Between the good lowend and light swith powerband it may seem to have more lowend than it actually does just because of the wheel spin that is always there. I am buying an new banshee and will run the exact same set up. The only choice is between pipes. There are many more to choose from now a days. Ideally i want a pipe that goes from 0-70 and 20 to 70 quick. In my current set up the faster I shif the faster I get there which I like, you may have to rev out a little more in 5th but it depends on traction. I am more into low to mid then a pipe that works best and continues to climb as you hold it wide open more. My current excelerate quick and fizzles out a bit and revs nice but does not have continous pull, but it has teremndoues torque in 6th gear crusin on the fire roads that we ride. I don't have to shift very often. So just shopping and I wish I could have 15 sets of pipes to test, that would make this easy. Chris

See above. I corrected the URL Chris

I found this on the web earlier in the year. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I am not sure how valid the information is but it appears to be a good tool for judging RPM vs Horsepower and what pipe works at what. Let me know how valid and useful this infomraoitn is? From the type of riding I do PC seems to be the way to go (Tight trials, seasonal roads, dunes) Chris www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambanshee/techtips/pipes/pipeinfo.html This appeared to work fine