azsandrat

Try Rocky Mountain ATV. All Ballls is the brand. You just need to know what size thread. 14mm or 16mm. 20-25 bucks each. If you call and talk to a tech they can help you out. Gary@Quicksand

As for heat treating....Its called stress relieving. This is done at the weld zones only. If you heat treat 4130 it becomes too brittle and will snap. Rolls are not heat treated as I have a bent set on the wll. Everyone wants bullet proof a arms but is your frame tabs that strong?? I've welded a bunch back on for customers. Roll doesn't have a guarantee with them. They are .065 wall and thats the only way doug makes them. Just pick the right a arms for your style of riding. I guarantee you will not bend a set of a arms made for either .095 or .120 4130. You will damage your frame. Gary

Hey guys have you ever taken a look at the off road race trucks,long travel buggys etc. They all use heims. Thats because they have more movement,stronger and can be used in a variety of uses. If you have cheap heims they will wear fast thats no lie. Its like chains. You get a cheap one its gonna let you down.Your chains,rear axle bearings and those of you who run TM Design chain guides will recieve more abuse from the roost from your front tires than the front end of the arms will any day. I have tons of call reguarding people with froze up ball joints. The are made in china and are soft as nerf. For those who say heims don't work good in sand had cheap ones. ALL sand cars are totally heim suspended even the off road trucks are using a sperical ball or heim. Helicopters are full of heims and they are running in the sand right now in the Middle East. Its like everything else. Theres good and crap. I use aircraft grade only. I can get some for 3.50 each and the are junk. I use the 20.00 each kind that last. If you don't take care of your chain how long will it last??????? Gary QUICKSAND

This is not one of my swing arms. I don't make them for a stock style carrier. Might be an old lonestar. Gary

i'VE GOT A +4 CHROMED ROUND HOUSING READY TO GO. Built to last. I LIVE IN MESA. Not too far from you. Quicksand Motorsports Gary

I don't and wouldn't run Long Travel on a Banshee. I do on a 450 though. As for the banshee I have done the geometry and built proto types and have come to the conclusion WHY? The frames all wrong. As for the 13.5 travel. YOU CANNOT GET THAT MUCH. The stock ball joint on the tie rods will not allow this much wheel travel. A heim joint style is needed to achieve this much. Also with 13.5 a Banshee will stick the frame into the ground and hurt someone. As for the term LONG TRAVEL its a hoax. Its actually long shock. You can get the same travel fron a stock length shock as a long shock if the geometry is set correctly. For a short shock you move the lower shock mount inwards towards the frame and use a bigger spring. If you use a longer shock you move the tabs out towards the spindle and use a softer spring. The ONLY advantage to a longer shock is that they hold more oil and will not fade as fast. 90% of the riders wouldn't be able to tell the difference between WORKS,ELKA and AXIS if they were set up right. The more springs is not necessarily better.

Looks like Janssens to me. They are the only ones to make the upper arm bent like the lower. ????? The bump steer is terrible on LT banshee. The frame mounts are too far apart to make them steer correctly. Quad rate springs sag too much in hard corners like MX also. They make you enter and leave the corner on 3 wheels(inside rear will be air born) making you loose traction on exits.

NJ give me a call and I'll try to help you out. I hate to see people get the shaft on hard earned money. The main problem with the UGLY's also known as ACTION and know FULL FLIGHT is the fit. The uppers hit the shocks etc.The may be powder coated but he'snot doing the process correctly (sandblasting before paint) Designing a arms is a difficult task. You have to take into account alot of things like how far you want arms to compress without the frame smacking the ground and breaking someones wrists or bending or the steering over rotating and locking like I read or even just simple stuff like the tierods hitting the uppers at full compression on a hard turn. I understand the money thing all to well. I've been riding for 28years and have not always had the money to get what I wanted. You can get alot of good deals on EBAY thats for sure but be carefull on new hardware such as suspension parts. I've seen alot of brand new twisted up crap. Its good you can get ahold of him still and he's sending your money back. alot of guys got screwed by this guy.

I'll call you tomorrow Screw Machine. Sent you an e-mail too. Sorry for not being able to get to the phone. Its usually not like this. I also apologize to anyone trying to get ahold of me the past 2 weeks.

THIS IS THE SAME COMPANY OR GUY THAT MADE "UGLY A ARMS". BEFORE THAT IT WAS LIGHTNING OR BOLT OR SOMETHING. THIS GUY KEEPS MAKING JUNK AND THEN CHANGES HIS NAME ON EBAY. HE'S STILL IN AZ LIKE UGLY'S WERE AND THEY LOOK THE SAME. PULL UP SOME OLD POST AND COMPARE. BE CAREFULL DEALING WITH THIS GUY.

I figured this would happen sooner or later. I am a certified aerospace welder and am currently certified in titanium. You guys see the blue on that weld down the beam? If a titanium weld turns blue its concidered NO GOOD. If it turns white its SCRAP. To build a titanium swinger it has to be welded in an inert atmosphere(NO OXYGEN). After that it must go through an stress relive process within 72 hours of the first weld being done. This also has to be done in an ovenn with an inert atmosphere. It costs about 200.00 to fill a chamber with argon big enough to weld a swing arm. These processes to fabricate titanium is so costly that There is no way to make them cost effective. The welds these have are no good and they polish them to take away the discloration but its still a defective weld. In a nutshell the bad welds and the weld zone (heat affectted area) are brittle and will break like this one. Glad your not hurt. Titanium isn't the best material for suspension because it will flex alot but will break before bending unless its heated to 1400 degrees to take a shape. Hope this helps others in making a decision. Gary @ quicksand

DLNOSS, Yes it is the same guy. Give me a call tomorrow to give you the inside on this flake. Gary@ QUICKSAND MOTORSPORTS

I have a brand new 12mm built by Phil at Crank Works. Its got the 10 ball bearings and a TZ on the tranny side as well as HOT RODS 250R rods. Need to get 800 for it. It costs a grand to make one.

I have the 2004 with the new engine and love it. It just turned 12k on the way back from a Glamis trip las weekend and I have to say it runs away from the other two. My friends drive both pulling the same 28ft toy haulers and the Chevy kicked ass on the both. The ford was hot rodded as well. Duramax and the allison is the way to go. If Ford could make a tranny worth a crap I might have gone that route but once I pulled with the allison tranny there is no way I would buy any other. Plus I was born into a bowtie family and you just can't change some things if you guys know what I mean.

MESA... Lindsay and McKellips are the closest streets. I'll be home most of the day sunday. 495-5932

I had the same problem with a 500cc duner. Whats happening is the shift shaft is slipping off the shift star when under alot of load. Pisses you off huh? Ride normal and they are all there. I had a .060 shim lasered out to space the shift star out so the shift shaft can't slip off. Worn star or your clutch cover is worn on the pad that the shaft rests against. Give me a call or PM me and I'll send you one. After installing the shim its never done it again. I install them on every motor I build as well as some local shops use them here in AZ also. If you look at the hooks that grab the star on the shift shaft you'll see that they are always on the outer edge of the star. The shim moves the star to the center so it can't slip.Works like a charm. Gary@QUICKSAND MOTORSPORTS

I take all my parts to PETE"S METAL FINISHING. He does show chrome at a reasonable price. I would not suggest PAPAGO PLATING at all. The shit peals and has a yellow tint to it. Metro plating in Mesa but a little exspensive if you as me and a long waiting list too.

Powder coated a arms are 500.00 + shipping. Two shocks sounds cool but too much weight up front. I've been wanting to build a drag bike frame with inboard suspension like an INDY CAR only using a mountain bike shock for light weight. It would take some engineering to get the travel and leverage of the bellcranks correct. All it takes is time which is few and far between these days.

The reason that round tubing is used is that it is stronger,easier to bend and cope to fit the bosses that the ball joints thread into. Its also lighter per linear foot than Square tubing. If you do the math 1 inch round rolled flat it 3.14 and square is 4.0. As for setting up the angles...33deg is the magic number for the anle of the ball joint. You want to be able to run a longershock if desired. When placing the shock mounts you need to run a set of arms so you can make sure that you don't slam the frame into the ground and break your wrists. You want to check this using a 20 inch front tire but most people use 21 or 22. What ever you do you want the shocks to stop the motion of the arm not the ball joints binding as it will snap them right off the bat. Make a jig as well so they will be all the same. If ya wing it it'll be a bitch to set up the front end. Most builders go +1 fowards for the banshee. The reason for this is that the Banshee is nose heavy to start with. If you MX you would run a shorter swing arm. This moves the center of gravity back 1 or so inches making it handle better. You can move the foot pegs back an inch and shorten the brake and shifter and it moves the rider back an inch and really makes them HOOK UP and handle alot better. You have to remember we all love the Banshee but its 17 year old technology. It was made overnite to go after the 250R market. So not alot of thought was given to its suspension. Bad ass motor though. It came from a street bike. I'd use 4130 chromoly. Its twice as strong and will flex. Mild steel won't flex much at all before it takes a set. You can get 4130 at www.wicksaircraft.com . They will sell it by the foot so you don't have to buy a min. length. If you need some help or some pieces to help your project give me a call at QUICKSAND MOTORSPORTS and I'll be glad to help you out. Good luck with the project, Gary

THEY CALL FOR 1.7 I use 2 personally and this is the reason. Has anyone ever had the problem of the clutch rod and ball welding themselves together? I know some have and have seen alot of this first hand. 1.7 doesn't submerge the shaft and ball. 2 qts does and there is no problem running this amount. If you have a modified clutch and use 1.7 chances are it will happen. Usually when drag racing when you have the clutch in and rev it up alot before dumping the clutch. Most shops out west tell you to use 2 qts. I also use a synthetic tranny oil for normal riding. ATF for stirckly drag racing.

YOU MIGHT CHECK TO SEE IF THE PIPES ARE HITTING SOMEWHERE ALSO. I'VE HAD A FEW OF THOSE.

2.03 here in PHX

I LIKE THE .40 CAL. BARRETTA. you can also put the 9mm barrel and clip and have 2 rounds to shoot.

I like DuneDemons idea. Nice touch.

You can run stocks if you turn the adj to full tilt. hey still dive in hard corners and depending on your jumping. I'd go with better shocks..Stock will just get you by till you get better ones