seansy007

MILD BUILD BANSHEE 1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? toomy t5s 2) What type of airfilter do you have? k&n pods 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all no air box 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 5k foot dunes 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27 6) What size main jets are you using? 310 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 80+ 8 ) What type of riding this is set up for aggressive dune riding. 9 ) bore/psi on cylinders 64.5mm cylinders with a cool head and 19cc domes (165psi at 500foot) 10) Do you have a port job? mild home brew, just to help everything flow no angles or roof/Floors changed 11) What kind of carbs? stock 12) What size carbs? 26mm 13) Any other motor mods? vf4 reeds

good to know they did a great job on all the holes and have only had 1 or 2 that had a tiny bit of pc in/on them. just wanted to make sure im not the only one removing powder from stuff.

everything you could ever think of for tooling we run a mobile mechanic shop. I hate Elec problems so when I can I make sure it works 100%. splines nor threads were coated just the wheel and rotor/sprocket mounting surfaces. main reason i ask for the hub is i mounted my new wheels and tires on the front and they wobbled bad which i know everything was strait when i took it off and i noticed the powder is keeping stuff from lining up right. i also know that on like the rotor/sprocket the stuff will eventually crumble and come off thus making everything loose.

I just had a bunch of stuff powdered a couple months ago and now starting to go back together, I removed the powder on ground contacts for the frame along with the mounting surface for the rotors. question is should I do the wheel hub surface as well? and the rear drive sprocket, brake hub etc.

send them to Jamal Collins down in Arizona he does good chrome, I've heard good about F.A.S.T chromers so you could send it to them but they'll just send it to someone else.

the steering stem has a castle nut on the bottom

I've personally never seen a set for sale on market place in 3years of being on it. I've seen one set sold but it was an iso post and they pmed each other to talk abt it.

its a long list lmao i got on it late last summer and he told me a year and a half wait.

the spacer on the inside of the 2 bearings? it should be snug between the 2 bearings not loose if its loose the bearings aren't pressed into the housing all the way in. or its worn. there's probably not a torque spec because its a castle nut with a cotter pin and at that torque spec the pin slot and holes may not line up. i usually give a few uggaduggas till the slots line up. you dont wanna give more than say 4 tho cuz thats too tight lmao

the allow Boltz kits on eBay are pretty good from my experience and they come with pretty much everything except the upper rad mount/steering stem bolt and the upper a arm bolts. only downside is they are Allen's not the factory hex other than that they are good stuff there may be a few other bolts not in there but you can find them all used or new on like motorsport, partzilla, rocky mountain etc..

damn this revived an old topic

using a mix of stainless (alloyboltz kit) and stock hardware chromed on my build and I've only put Loctite on stuff that needs it haven't used ant seize on anything. most of the stuff includes nylock nuts so Loctite isn't needed. stock uses pinch bolts so its not needed there either. i used stock castle nuts and bolts where available.

FIGURED IT OUT. i called the og owner of the pipes (i bought them from my buddie who bought a parts lot from the dude) and he told me they are center mount stingers. he was right.

NEW LINK https://www.facebook.com/100013386406486/videos/1157432194712983/

thanks i updated it .

i have yet to assemble my clutch with the pancake and everything but I'm pretty sure when putting in the pancake you do not include the ball in the assembly just the rod and pancake. correct?

thats what im thinking it has to be something with the pressure plate not seating correctly either because the pancake and rod arent set right or the plate isnt slotting into the hub

okay, the thing is, if there was a ridge preventing the pack from compressing with all the other plates the pressure plate would still be engaging on the front disks that got cought on the ridge and it sounds like it isn't.

hey, i can get one side of my shearers to line up but not the other, i did get it to line up with A LOT of washers but its a nice build and i hate how it looks. the video explains it pretty well. https://www.facebook.com/100013386406486/videos/1157399798049556/

when all assembled do you have play on the actuator arm or is it tight all the way?

nice to hear someone is having a similar issue, I had this problem last year but with my rear brake, never tried a new line or master but it wasn't the caliper, well see this year I got a different mc and line in my ground up build.

is this because of the less weight and ne need to mount the rezzy or due to some performance differe.ce you find in them? the only benefit I can think of is better cooling for the rezzy over the piggy back. ( thats the whole point of both options over no piggy/rez)

send them off to jogaca to get reworked for you he is an awesome dude and does great work for a good price. he will also powder coat any color you want for a lil extra. if you decide to go with the +2 +1 setup tell him that. or just go for a setup that comes with shocks/buy some. I recommend fox floats, the 600 dollae baseline ones are good. I'm loving my float 3 evol rc2s. or custom axis, worxs, pep, elka. ( be ready to send out and get re tuned)- the legacy series are a great shock to get in the game at a good price but elka is bad with setups and will need to be re tuned 90% of the time.

they are correct i didnt notice those long ones had 6 slots 5 is stock . needles have no affect on where fuel is going (ie out the overflow) i would run the stock needles as they do their job well.

depends how much power you want a 10mill serval 68mm bore will make around 110-115hp not sure on a 521. personally i dune on a +6 and i can throw it around pretty well but I'm pretty well built and race dirt bikes. with those tires you could probably get away with a +2 just might need to do some tuning changes to the suspension/air pressure. how much do you weigh?