JerzOutlaw350

Please disregard this post. I found a really clean pair of OEM spindles locally on FB Marketplace.

I’m looking for a clean, straight pair of spindles for an a-arm Banshee. Let me know what you have and how much.

I have 2 pairs of the Alba Racing LT A-arms that I’ll be installing in the next few day for 2 guys that I ride with. The Alba a-arms seem to be just as beefy as the Fireball Racing LT A-arms. The only difference is the price.

@HeavyHauler You made an excellent decision on going with Fireball Racing. I got the same exact set up as what you posted. I’ve owned my Fireball Racing LT A-arms since 2020. Till this day I’m still happier than a fat kid who loves cake with this suspension setup.

Hey HeavyHauler, I don’t know what type of riding you do. I’ll do my best to explain my experience with this post. Some others may disagree. Stay away from the 💩 Tusk axle. I installed one for one of the guys I ride with. He spent more time tightening the axle nut and hub nuts and after maybe 3 or 4 rides he returned it back to RMATV for a refund. The Lonestar Axcalibar axle is a good choice. They are made much better now than how they were made 10-15 years ago. I installed one today that replaced a bent Lonestar axle. The bent wasn’t covered by their warranty because the owner of the banshee wasn’t the original purchaser of the axle. Lonestar said that the warranty was already registered with the original purchaser. With the Lonestar Axcalibar axle it uses the OEM sprocket hub, brake rotor hub, axle nuts and wheel hubs. Now the RPM Dominator ll axle is a great axle. They maybe a little bit pricey but I have one on my Banshee and love it. The RPM axle has been on my Banshee for almost 5 years and still looks the day I installed it. The areas I ride in are mainly trails and sand quarries and some places have pea stone. The RPM axle is just like the Lonestar axle. It use all the same OEM parts as the Lonestar axle uses. There warranties are basically the same. The only difference is the price. Check with both companies directly or check with ATV Galaxy on EBay. I hope this information helps.

Check out the BHQ sponsor list and also try HJR they are in San Diego.

Check your wiring harness to make sure it’s not grounding out anywhere and check for broken wires or loose connections. Also if you have a friend that has a banshee try swapping out the ignition coil. Even though it’s new they can’t be trusted especially when it comes to aftermarket coils. When it comes to electrical parts it should only be OEM.

Check with these guys for a rear oem shock. I bought from both these companies before and they are great people. https://westcoastatvparts.com/ https://redo-parts.com/

That looks like some kind of a front shock that is put in upside down.

J-arm Banshees were produced from 1987-1990 then in 1991 Yamaha introduced the Banshee with A-arms. Can you post a picture of the area where the VIN # are ? I got an idea what the previous owner could have done.

Leave them at the length they are and just fold them back against the harness and then wrap them up in electrical tape.

According to the diagram in my clymer repair manual it says the yellow wire with red stripe and the plain yellow wire goes to the light dimmer switch.

I know that this isn’t a Banshee it’s my neighbors Blaster that has son rides. What do you think caused this? I know what caused it. But do you? The top end was just rebuilt at a local dealership 3 weeks ago. Carburetor is jetted a little on the rich side and the engine was properly broken in with a 24:1 ratio using Motul 710. The dealership did a bore .040 on a OEM Cylinder installed a Wiseco piston kit. They called the dealership and told them that the work they did failed. They told him that they must of not broke it in and must of rode it balls to the wall and they are not covering it. So I took on the job to fix it the proper way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They both work great if they are installed correctly.

If you push on the stuck clutch push rod does it move inside the Mainshaft? It’s more than likely that the end of the clutch push rod that makes contact with clutch release lever is mushroomed. If the clutch push rod is severely mushroomed then you will need to split the cases to get the clutch push rod out.

What does it look like when you look into the mainshaft where you have to slide the clutch push rod and clutch ball?

Get yourself a good pair of vise grips and try to clamp it on what is sticking out. Try to lock the vise grips on as tight as possible then try pulling it out and wiggle it as you are pulling it. A few months back I was working on a neighbor’s Banshee with a clutch problem that was almost similar to your problem and I did this to get the clutch push rod out.

Take the clutch release lever and look at it for any type of damage. If there’s no signs of damage then put it on the side for now. How much of the clutch push rod is sticking out?

What you need to do is disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch release lever (the lever that’s down on the engine under the left carburetor) to to release the tension on the clutch release lever. Then check to see if the lever moves left to right. You can also try wiggling it left to right and at the same time try getting the clutch push rod out with the magnet as you are wiggling the lever. If the clutch release lever doesn’t move then remove the bolt and hold down bracket and then release the spring and try pulling lever up. Just be careful because there is a seal and a bearing under the lever.

With the clutch taken apart now does the clutch lever pull in ? If it does then have someone pull the clutch lever in and release the clutch lever and then look at the clutch rod and see if it’s moves in and out. If it does then pull the clutch lever in and that should make it clutch rod move outward then reach in with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the clutch rod out or you can also use a piece of 5/16 rubber hose and use it to remove the clutch rod .

Chariot Performance engraves their name on their products. Go to Sudco.com and on their website they explain the how to tell the difference between fake and genuine Keihin carburetors. How to know if you have fake V-Force Reeds. https://mototassinari.com/counterfeit-vforce#:~:text=Signs you either have or,might just have a counterfeit.

Thanks, dano3 I appreciate the reply. I have ordered from Jetsrus before. ** UPDATE- Please disregard this post. I found the jets that I needed. It turns out my neighbor who worked at my local Yamaha dealership had a plastic container sitting on the shelf in his garage. It turned out that he had a ton of brand new genuine keihin and Mikuni jets that were still in little plastic baggies.

https://www.jdscustoms.com/product/yamaha-banshee-stator-95-06-wild-boar-atv/

This is the compression test kit I own it’s made by Snap-on if I remember correctly I think I paid $250 for it 2 years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any Banshee will start with 1 kick as long as it has excellent compression, proper jetting, good strong spark and ample fuel.