Killacaviar

Sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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All sold. Sorry guys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lots Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Provide build and jetting specs. You are very lean. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still available ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I completely agree with your comments on the crank. Hot rods is a very reasonably priced crank that has been tried and true for the size motor you intend to build. If you have the funds than go for the crank works. Regardless, it seems like you have you mind set on what you want to run. But I would call lane at driveline and ask about his cylinder timeline. They do runs very often and usually sell than all as soon as they’re plated. But if money isn’t an issue I would do a redline ported serval with some snipers. Whatever you decide to go with ask them about your carb thoughts and see what they recommend with their motors. At the end of the day whomever is doing the port work and/or selling you the cylinder probably knows best. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also do what you please. But the combined knowledge of all these guys on here In regards to banshees is second to none. This site has taught me so much about these bikes. And they will all tell you to run owls on a banshee for every type of riding...except maybe, just maybe drag racing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

421 driveline hp. I got the hp since it’s not quite the same port timings as a cub but not as long as a serval. And I was able to change the entire power delivery with my pipes. I would imagine a driveline serval is a great option as well. But cost wise bill and lane at drivelines are incredible reasonable and very respectable cylinders. Hot rods or driveline crank. Slp pipes. They are a blast for anything but drag racing. Fast hd clutch. No lockout. All the usually shifting mods. If you care for your bikes and change your clutch after each season you don’t need a lockup. Regardless of a promod and your shift star mod etc you will miss shifts. If your in the 80-90hp range you don’t need a lockup if you maintain your clutch. Also make sure you buy a new inner and outer clutch hub. They are cheap and are great insurance. I had a lockup fast clutch and lighter springs. Felt great at the bars but I could t shift confidently. It’s one thing to take a bike for a ride. But to actually own it and trail ride it constantly you will miss shifts with a lockup. I Pwk35s. Dual Pingle. I ran a assassin hp with slps and 35s and the things was a wheelie machine. Especially on race gas. It was in the powerband instantly. I could sit in the trees at the bottom of a 100yrd coal hill in trevorton. Drop the clutch. Second gear start. Shift into third sometimes 4th and just pull and pull all the way up. I live in pa and do mostly trail and coal riding and this was an incredibly fun bike to ride. I had a motor built for more top end and I hated it so much I tore it apart after one ride. Sold everything and went this route. There are multiple people on here that have run a similar set up and I promise you they would have nothing but great things to say. I have since sold the bike. But only because of an offer I could refuse. I would build the same motor if I was to do it again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s vacant/empty. Been sitting like that for a few years. I live down the street and pass it on my way to Philly everyday. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slps are a fun pipe to ride everything with. They do sign off early and for me it is noticeable. But only on asphalt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Duncan and jaws bumper for sale Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cascade bumper sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Macdaddy top end sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fenders sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sold Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look on eBay for OEM kx85 carbs. Every so often they go up for super cheap. They are genuine pwk 28s. Which is probably the best carb you can put on a stock bore and stroke. Very easy to tune compared to oem. I found two for about 70 bucks each and got proper needles and a rebuild kit for each. Cost me about 165 for everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, either way man they’re both praised by everyone that has experience with them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I sent schmidty a beat up blown out old 250r shock and got back a brand new looking fresh blue powdered shock with an aftermarket remote resi from a fox shock. He will do anything you ask him to. A simple rebuild/restore to a full blown fully adjustable racer. Just speaking to my experience, but personally the thing ran better than a stage 4 elka I had years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes sir. Gives me flexibility. Runs great always on the pipe. And I have the option of getting shearers, or another drag pipe and changing the motor completely just with the pipe. It was lanes recommendation. I’m super happy with it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Schmidty racing. Great pricing amazing work. Turned my r rear into a fully adjustable, triple rate with a fox podium resi. Great price world class builds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also lane recommended me starting at 165 and that was to lean for me... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hey you never know about that 175... I’m pretty close lol. I started pulling everything apart thinking something was clearly wrong. After speaking to lane and double checking my work I was moving in the right direction with the 168 and a 170. Which according to lane and showing him my plugs it’s what the engine needed. And if I remember correctly sully you were in the 140s on a “similar build”. It’s crazy how different each bike can be Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Your right the ones pictured are blaster. I have yellow oem banshee and white yfz right next to them. The wrong photo was posted. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk