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Killacaviar

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Everything posted by Killacaviar

  1. You can run full throttle through 3rd with a brake load on it and still get an accurate reading if done correctly. You have to stop changing more than one thing at a time. I know it takes time when you have to keep opening the carbs up. Your shooting in the dark by doing it that way. And the only way to know for sure is to chop the midrange and chop full throttle one at a time. Check out south Texas banshee on YouTube. He has great videos on plug chopping both intervals of the carb. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Yea, I found a nice jp swinger for cheap. I just like stock length the best. Makes for a fun riding bike, in my opinion. I enjoy having one of my bikes that stands up all the time. And I never had an issue with it on hills. It’s a little trickier but worth it IMO. I have a yfz that’s a lot more tame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’m not sure on the years. They are a arm and not j arm. No titles. However, all vins are clean and clear. I’m in the philly area. I’ll see if I can get some pictures together tonight and post for you in addition to some pricing. There are a few that would need powder and one or two that are freshly powdered. I’ll keep you posted Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. No change at all? Better? worse ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. For sale Pipes no silencers Driveline high port assassin freshly built. Purchased in September. 1.5 hours tops Odi bars with pad 60 Cascade tensioner 50 Levers 25ea Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Hi. I ran them with slps. Lane told me to go with the hi port for flexibility. And run shearers for mid to top motor and slps for a snapper low to mid motor. I like them a lot. Just can’t pass up a brand new ported serval from fast for cheap Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I’ll have pipe and swing picks up tonight. The cylinders are brand new lol. I built the motor, cycled it and started chopping it and that’s it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Sorry no, I could do the pistons too for an additional 100 bucks. I need the domes. All you need to get is domes gaskets and studs depending on your head. Let me know. I got few dms about them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I would take 550 or so for the cylinders Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. I have a set of 421 drivelines I’m looking to sell. I found a good deal on a brand new ported serval. The cylinders have maybe 1.5 hours of ride time. I am selling just the cylinders for 600 plus shipping. The Paul turner are mids. Have one ding on one side. If I were to run them I would replace or powder. Asking 170 plus shipping And I have a +4 Tyson swingarm fresh white powder never ran on dirt or anything other than asphalt. Asking 270 plus shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. You want the pts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Yea, if it was getting better. Every motor is different Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Sounds like your main might need attention. I would up one on the main and see if it gets better. If not go to other way. Try ray and get rid of that hesitation before messing with the pilot. I miss understood. I thought your lag was in the low end.
  14. I had the same issue on my bike. I had to drop my pilot and fatten the needle in order to have a smooth transition from 1/4-1/2throttle. If you do something and it gets better keep moving in that direction. Work on one thing at a time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Good call. I just regrounded the motor. Switched carbs. Checked the sync in the carbs again. And upped my main to a 165. I’ll chop it tomorrow and see what the plugs look like. If there is any difference. Have you heard of people running two different mains in a banshee? I know it’s common on snowmobile engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Thanks man. I feel the same way. All the electrics were fine before I swapped the motor. The last thing I want to do is run through all the electrical components and it just needs a bigger jet. I’m going to do a leakdown one more time just to make sure. Check my ground. Ground the motor with another wire and put a 162 in and see what happens. Like I said bike rips. I just don’t want to blow it up over something foolish. Could very well be overthinking this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Like based on the plugs, the motor will run 165s no problem. And i find that very odd. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Not ported. And yes everything checks out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Thanks sully. I just don’t understand why this thing is taking so much fuel. I talked to fast. And they said it could potentially be electrical. Which is where I’m at. I just would think if it wasn’t burning clean from a lack of spark it would be rich. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I just built a driveline 421 hp. It has slp, pwk35, vforce 4, 4 degrees of timing, pods 23cc domes, new plug caps. Jetting is 50pilot Cel 4th clip Main 160. Look at the plugs. One ring is thicker than the other and it’s driving me nuts. Carbs are brand new. Leakdown passed, I just took the cards apart today again. Checked floats resynced. I’ve switched wires. The plugs look lean to me and a 160 on this already sounds rich. And the ring difference from the left to the right is off. Any thoughts. I’m trying to get in contact with lane. Just thought I would approach it from all angles and see what you all think. The bike juns strong. No hiccups, steady crisp idle, i am going to try a 162 but I feel like it should bed that much fuel. In conclusion, can someone explain the plug ring difference? Has anyone seen mains this large on a similar set up at 400above sea level and 65f Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Have access to a few frames but I’m in pa. And can’t ship a frame. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Where you located? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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