phillybuilt

If you have a Toyota dealership nearby, ask for their oil pan sealant. A little costly, but works great.

I like the JT X-ring chains, 520 pitch. X1R2 I think is the model I use. They are good quality, and very affordable. Have had good luck with them on my streetbike, my 450r, and the banshee. How long exactly for a +4 I'm not sure. My feelings are that any good name brand X-ring chain will do very well, and last longer than any non o-ring chain. The O-ring design helps to keep the grease in, and the dirt out for longer life. It's worth the extra money you spend the first time around. Keep it tight, use chain wax often, and it will last a long time. edit: X-ring is just a fancy O-ring

I wanted to say, nice build! It's ten times cooler seeing a non-stretched banshee, and knowing it has a 10mm setup. If you try the Chariot throttle, please give us a good review. I'm using a Honda with an extended thumb, and looking for something easier. There's a local selling some decals on craigslist, I saw your above post and I just wanted to pass it on in case you could use them. If he won't ship them, I could help get them to you (provided it's what you're looking for) 2006 Yamaha Banshee OEM Rear Fender Decals - $100 http://newhaven.craigslist.org/mcy/6058421921.html

Good for you! Love seeing people trying to get the most life out of them as they can instead of just trading up for new. My 24 valve is approaching the 300k mark and it's just getting started IMO. Have you had any transmission or injector issues? What do you use for additives?

Got my bar today in great shape, thanks again!

The transmission does, which was what I was referring to. Although now that I think back, he could be referring to straight cut drive gears from the crank to the clutch. Oops lol

Always comical when people put straight cut gears in their list of mods...

Spec is .020" on the pickup, 21mm float height on the carbs. Are you testing your stator in a place where it's right around 70 degrees? If not, that could affect your readings.

Sent thank you

Awesome send me your PayPal information thanks!

Got any stock grab bars for sale?

Just curious, have you looked at the reeds? Maybe one chipped or broke? Could possibly cause what's happening here with no air leaks & seemingly everything else in place

Cut out early today, as the package with the new caps and wires arrived. Decided to do some quick testing first. Attached a test light to the frame, and started up the banshee. I ran the test light down the old coil wire and along the boot, one side was very lightly arcing, the other side was pretty strongly arcing. Clipped off about 1/3" each side to fresh wire, screwed in the new NGK caps, put the insulators back on, all better. No more high RPM breakup, hooray! Really appreciate everyone's help on the matter, thanks again to everyone and this forum as a whole, for all the insight. My banshee would not be running without HQ. Big thanks to Sleeper for taking the time to text me the stator notes, in between porting a pile of cylinders. All of my testing with the stator would have been null and void if it weren't for him. Hats off to you sir.

Ordered a set of NGK wires & caps, per your guys advice. Also going to remove the stator and leave it in the house overnight for accurate test readings. Should have some results by the end of the week. Work has been stressful lately. Big thanks to sleeper for taking the time to send me some very crucial notes about stator testing. If anyone else needs this information I would be more than happy to pass it along.

What should I be seeing for output if I test the stator? I don't want to throw parts at it without first really testing it if I can help it. There's 2 brand new BR8ES that replaced the practically new set (to rule everything out), it passes air leak test perfectly, and I'm at around 140 per cylinder with a good compression tester.

Northwest corner of CT, near Torrington

Thanks for the tip special06shee. I've been considering a Dynatek coil and wires anyways, perhaps even their CDI as well if it's worth it. Maybe now is the time to do it? I forgot to mention, also re-checked the flywheel lugs for any dirt or debris and very lightly polished them with a scotch brite pad... Though they were clean to begin with. The pickup gap was way off though. I reset that to .020 per factory spec but unfortunately no change. It had to be in the .030's with how much I could wiggle the .020 feeler. The pickup itself was clean as well, I didn't touch it. There's two brand new plugs in there as well, to rule out the chance of even a slightly fouled plug. Still weak smoke on the right side. Pretty stumped right now, and unfortunately I don't have anyone local with a banshee to swap parts with. Going to get some batteries for the meter and do some testing later. Thanks for the input guys

Unfortunately, I don't have any of those for spares. Yes, it does pop and break up in the upper RPM's. And I hear you with the cut outs on the slides, keep it simple and don't overlook anything! They are in correct though. And while we're on the stupid things subject, the choke tube is good to go. I re-visited a few tests and theories this evening. Didn't have batteries for the meter so couldn't do any electrical testing. Got a different compression tester, without the gas tank in place so the line wasn't kinked. 138 on left, 140 on right. Kicked it until it stopped going up, engine was cold. Also air leak tested again. Holds 6 PSI for 6 minutes. Sprayed EVERYTHING with soapy water, no signs of air leakage anywhere. Used a starter cable from another ATV as a ground, between case and frame, and ground all contact surfaces. Tried swapping coil wires around for the hell of it. No change. I also noticed that the right side pipe has less smoke coming from it at idle, just hitting the throttle a little bit, or even at wide open. Thinking maybe the carburetor wasn't getting fuel properly, I tried another right side carb. I took it apart, everything was cleaned then blown out with compressed air, adjusted float to 21mm with no gasket, sync'd carbs after, etc. No change at all. Also noticed the right side will pop at high RPM's, the left side never does. The crank seals were OEM Yamaha as well, no aftermarket junk. When I had the exhaust off the engine, there was an equal amount of residue on each of the exhaust outlets, leading me to believe the crank seals are fine. It runs beautiful at idle, and for the most part runs great all around otherwise. Just the full throttle high RPM part sucks.

Just a Craftsman compression tester. Doesn't leak or anything. When I had installed the cool head, the pistons looked great, and the cylinder walls had a very clean cross hatching in them. What should I see for compression with 21cc domes and good pistons?

Knew I'd forget a detail somewhere... 21cc's

I've got a really strange popping and backfiring at full throttle, and I'm kind of puzzled thus far. When I got my banshee originally, it had FMF's, a boost bottle, jetted WAY too lean, air leaks everywhere, TORS was on it, leaky head gasket, it was a big mess. Did the same thing, popped at full throttle trying to do a donut or make a really hard pull. Stock bore/port/stroke too nothing crazy. Ditched the boost bottle, eliminated TORS, installed a brand new cool head, dialed in the jetting pretty well, switched to T5's, fixed EVERY air leak (including the crank seals), pulled the airbox lid off, running 30/320's/1 turn currently. Starts first kick, idles like a dream. Has 130 PSI compression both sides, holds 6 PSI for 6 minutes. Timing is set at +4. I'm running BR8ES plugs. Both carb floats are adjusted to 21mm. As far as I can see without disassembling anything, the reeds are intact (though I think stock). I'm about 700 feet elevation. Carbs are sync'd, idle is set same both sides, fuel is 93 octane with Klotz premix at 32:1. Originally, I thought this was happening because it had 260 main jets and 25 pilots, but it doesn't seem to make any difference going between 280-340 mains (I've tried them all with no difference) and going from 25's to 27.5's and 30's as well. Air screw tuning does nothing to help. Throwing the airbox lid back on didn't help either, made no difference at all. I can't even make full pulls to chop the plugs. Happens with pod filters, or with the airbox (lid on or off) Starting to become a little neurotic, I tried chasing down the smaller details. Removed the fuel tank and petcock, cleaned out all the dirt and debris inside. Cleaned the petcock screen as well. Removed the ignition coil, and ground down the mating surface on the frame to bare metal, and cleaned up the mounting points on the coil as well. Every time it's apart, I double check the carbs to be safe. They come apart, I recheck the float height, and also clean them every time as well, along with testing the fuel inlets and float needle function. There's no issues there either. I took my spark tester and ran it on each wire between the plug and wire, both look to have equally intense spark. I also pulled the stator cover, and the flywheel is turning true, no rattle, and the pickup lugs are clean. The boots from carburetor to air box are okay, the intake boots going from reed cage to carbs are good too. When I had the engine apart for crankshaft seals, the crankshaft appeared to still be in phase. I considered adding a ground wire in between the coil and engine cases, and also between the engine and frame. My next step is going to be checking the voltage at the coil and the CDI, and also checking for resistance between the coil and CDI... I'm just really not sure where to go from here. For what it's worth, it's a stock Yamaha coil, stator, and CDI. Thanks guys.

My petcock is leaking, it's in rough shape, and I was thinking of replacing it. You can get the rebuild kits (Pro Motion or other non-OEM) for around $16, or a new Yamaha petcock for around $30. I was going to just get a whole new OEM one for how cheap it is. Then I stumbled upon this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-YFZ350-YFZ-GUZZLER-DUAL-FEED-GAS-TAP-PETCOCK-FUEL-VALVE-/182365373361?hash=item2a75d2c3b1:g:01kAAOSw5cNYduom&vxp=mtr My question is, when is it actually beneficial to run a dual petcock? Is it something really just for big engines/carburetor setups? And has anyone used this? Looking at the price of a new Pingel, I thought this was a pretty good deal, but there could be something I'm missing. Running stock stroke, but will move up to porting, then a 4 mil ported setup eventually. Should I stick with another OEM petcock, or upgrade now? Thanks

http://www.ezturnsignalkit.com/StreetLegalOHV.html Just a little info from a quick Google search. Not entirely sure how up to date it is though.

Two of those wires (from banshee) will be positive, with a test light you can tell which ones are. One for low beam one for high. I think grey is the ground... My '99 is wired the same way, and I have yellow and green both tapped into the power wire, and I have a black wire where you have a grey, which is grounded right to the light's ground. Either way, you can wire both of the positive wires to the red, and the negative to the black on the light.

Engine ice is great stuff, use it in all my bikes & ATV's. Only downside's are price (around $20 a half gallon), and having to flush with distilled water. The aluminum radiator (IMO) is worth it for the fact that it holds more coolant, taking longer to heat soak.