Oldskool83

I do not have an welder or know anyone with one locally. Could I soak it in penetrating oil and use something to pull it off. I do not have a jaw puller either, any idea where I could get something or possibly make something out of long bolts like a figure? I tried threading in my puller I had, it went int all the way and when i went to pull it off i just removed any of the remaining threads & messed up the end of my flywheel puller too. I put the case on and walked away and road my KX112 3wheeler. As far as messing up the fly wheel...well its already messed up in my book so I am OK wasting it but how in the world the shop got it back on when they did my ricks stator is beyond me. I have the bike on its side soaking in WD40 right now. It was pretty rusty inside and I did see a flywheel key. I even ran it 15 mins with out the stator nut and cover off thinking maybe it would spin its self loose. Didn't work. Maybe I can sleep on it and figure out a fix this week. I wanted to ride it at the hills this weekend to test my new OEM stator

I can not win with my banshee. I questions why I ever bought it at times. SO...i needed a OEM stator, no problem. I will use my nice flywheel puller and live will go on. Fast forward 30 mins...hmm, the shop how put my junk stator on (not oem) decided to it was cool to mash back on a flywheel with no threads left on the puller area....the end is ok but the fly wheel threads are non existent anymore. So no how do i get this off, i already know i need a new one but this one I do not know how to get off. Any advise would be great. If not I need to spend more to take to a real good shop and wait 2 weeks before they can touch the quad. I just want to ride this $7000 paper weight more then 15 mins.

it will work and it will set you 50" I run old 1983 atc250r hubs on mine with offset rims so it stayed 48" wide. they only really fit once there is ware to the hubs, if not they are like a press fit on. Keep them greased up and they will come on and off decently.

Ebay... Partzilla....not hard to find lol

every ATC and TRX one used on sport stuff has been the same since the birth of the orginal ATV....ATC250r. I have one on my 85 200x / KX112 and KFX700. My steering stem is even Honda ant vibe top. I do not like a lot of Yamaha stuff on my Yamahas, or Kawasaki's lol atc250r atc350x atc200x trx250x trx300ex trx300x trx400ex trx400x trx450r trx450er Don't listen to face book. Ask a Honda nut. I've had over 200 machine lol

I run this stuff. CR clutch lever and perch. Honda thumb throttle since it takes up less space and feel nicer then the hooky Yamaha stuff. YFZ450 master cylinder. Works fine for me, the less stuff up front the better IMO.

Thanks I bought one. Into the next fix.

You tell me. If I got $350 for new one then less then that if used lol. I'm not cheap.

I am about to buy a new one. I looked up the OEM part numbers and noticed they say 95-98 3GG-85510-00-00 and 99-06 3GG-85510-01-00. From what I was under impression was 95-06 was the same due to the plug design (white square connector) Can anyone let me know. I found a nice 2001 stator but when ran the p/n says its different but it looks no different them my 96 one. Do not need anymore $200 mistakes.

Bump, give it til Friday and Ill pull the plug on a brand new one.

I'm more inclined to find a OEM stator. I wish the shop never thru out my old one. It lost spark when they had it last year but the OEM harness has seen better days. Replaced with drag harness spark all day. Im tooling ebay and on here.

Needle spring float stuff is new so it should be working right. Even if floats were not set right it should come out at gaskets...it would come out at overflow tube and it never does.

2nd set of gaskets. They do not piss out but there always seems to be some oil fuel around the carbs bowl seals. I have even gone as far as using longer bolts and small nuts with lock washers to really clamp them down. What gives? Is this just another banshee thing? My next try will be a light coating of gasket bond around the blow seats.

WTB good working OEM stator 1995+ 717-675-4472 text or email please. Hoping this solves my aftermarket stator blues.

WTB good working OEM stator 1995+ 717-675-4472 text or PM please thanks.

I didn't a shop lied to me after i found a p/n wrote on a receipt that didn't seem OEM I want to do more of this and less buying parts over and over again.

Ill see what I can find. Why are they sold if they are junk...that's just ripping people off.

I used clear lines from lowea. It was tighter then OEM also.

Does anyone have one then I guess? I was thinking CDI not stator but I can try again.

ok cool, i'll throw another $800 into a $7000 bike. Should of never bought this thing.

I can ride as long as I want but every time i turn it off or stall it it will never start again until it sits 30+ mins. Has Ricks Motorsport Stator in it. Has OEM coil, Has OEM CDI, Has aftermarket YZ kill switch. Has no other electronics. I can start it and stop it under 5 mins and it starts right up. Ride it more then that will not start back up. Tired of being hauls back out of the hill climbs.

It runs, Turn it off after 5-20 mins of riding and no spark? Will not start again for 30+ mins Drag harness New stator New coil New Kill switch Dielectric grease in every connector and electrical tapped every connection Ground wire to frame Stator cover gasket is new and silicone both sides so no water to can get in. (does not mater if I ride in water or not) Can be pull started with another quad and fires right up as soon as i turn it off or I wait 30+ mins and it will kick start back up on its own. CDI getting hot? Does not mater if kill switch wires are plugged in or not Drag harness bought off the guy on here new. Bike is 1996 wiring Any help or ideas? Never have had a bike do anything like this in all my 26 years of running 2 strokes.

Per that photo I would do the following. removed reeds and check them if not replace. New reed gaskets with a light coating of gasket bond on them around the every edges. New cross over rubber intakes. If they are over 10 years old they will be dry rotted, new ones are not much. I would reinstall everything again and then go from there. Just adding sealer on the outside is not fixing the problem. I would only do that unless your gonna sell the bike. if your going to ride it farther then your yard do it right or do not waste the time at all.

JR's cycle shop...he shut doors after they pushed my bike out and relocated to FL.

I fell into this trap with a race shop by now....you wanna know what happened $750 gone. Messed up a lot of stuff and they stole parts off my ride. Why did I go there...because I moved and wanted to keep riding. I had to fix everything they did $700 more gone. You can buy a lot of crap for that or save it and feed your family. If someone on here offers to do it for you then go that route...if not stay the hell away from any shop.........yeah 3 banshees and a CR500 and a full blown race team I thought I was safe....Safe to spend money for junk back.