Oldskool83

I relocated my stuff all upfront under the nose on a aluminum plate I fabbed up. CDI and coil at the rear where stuff is kicked up was a dumb idea. Running pipes thru frame next to wires and an air box was another nightmare waiting to happen. All it takes it flipping the bike to bent the rear pipes to lay on your wires...and anyone buying a used bike these days knows everyone has been flipped at least once.

I have been going thru this for 3-4 weeks now due to trying to jett my bike...then spark decided to vanish again. I bought a new OEM coil, Bought a new drag wiring harness off a guy on here and next will be a OEM stator and if that's not it I will buy a new OEM CDI. Some days it would work, others it wouldn't. Its prob one of those three. Most will say test them but in my cause after being dicked over so many times by previous owner not taking care of anything I felt it was better to replace as much as I could now. I had even used a OEM harness that was gutted and aftermarket coil spark came and went...so now OEM startor will be bought. At some point its pointless to keep reusing and opening harnesses up and used parts.

You guys are using this help thread as a chat thread. I think I will be throwing my stator away. Went to tinker with it again and WOW no spark. Said fuck it and went to work on my KFX700. As far as you guys saying what works best for cleaning carbs there is a reason I use pine solve. It will really clean years or junk and dirt off the outside in about a days time. I really like to work on parts when they are clean. Pinesol Hot water and dish soap quick soak and since Carb cleaner in holes and passages Air compressor to dry and blow out passages. I build a lot of my bike in the house and sink it always full of parts. Overs are always use to drop bearings out of cases Dishwasher are also nice My wife gives no fucks what I bring into home because her nice engagement ring was paid for in full by flipping and parting blown ups atvs and MX bikes. Now back to the thread topic. I will repost more after I fix spark issues now since with no spark jetting not gonna happen. Building 2 bikes and fixing 1 at the same time is starting to get old lol. The shittiest one is the most reliable...while the most expensive is 100% unreliable. AKA my paper weight. One day I have hope it will work properly.

I have one I'll sell ya. I did mine a few months back. it's easy but prob will take you 2 hours for sure or longer once you get all the stuff out of it. I posted mine on craigslist for $25.00

Manheim PA 17545. About 3 hours from NY line if I would go up Interstate 81. Just didn't help guy i bought it off thru bikes together to flip, then i fixed it up the way i wanted told a shop hey just get it jetted a running real nice...no prob. 3 months later get it back missing shit and look i'm redoing it. I'm no stranger to work, 27 years riding all kinda toys. I went into this knowing banshee's had their bugs so its just down to jetting now and if temps to go much more It's pointless to work and hope to ride this. I have other machines for winter...KFX700! I wanted a banshee since 1995...the purple and yellow one were my fav. So this is just living a childhood dream. Shouldn't be that hard lol.

Oh about the guys who hosed me....stuff was missing off my bike after I torn back into it. I run quick disconcert pins for wheels and any place a cotter pin are used...well guess who had non on his wheels when he got it back. Guess who had a missing NEW chain roller Guess who has missing hardware under my fenders Guess who has missing seat rubber grommets Stuff that had nothing to do jetting a bike. Yeah worst service ever, only reason I went there was I was moving, saw they had a locally race team and I wanted to ride my bike and not work on it in my parents shed for 3 months until our new house was finished being build...you know sometimes things are not worth your time to do under certain circumstances...this was one. So no I'm having to re-check everything in which I paid for because I figured having no time and having it done correctly the 1st time would let me ride this year out...nope had to go buy another bike to finish the year out. SO this one has become a paper weight I just throw retirement money at every month. Thanks for the help so far.

Looks like I owned a can of worms by asking a question. I guess I am use to my Honda atc's as far as electronics. I can later buy an OEM stator, already have too much into this bike so another $300 or so won't hurt. After spending a few mins working on it again in between working on the house and 5 other bikes I own I find 1 issue thanks to having a garage with light again after 3 months of not having one. The carb that is leaking at the around the gasket bowl connection in fact has a missing overflow brass tube. Not sure if that is it's main issue as to why it would be leaking but I ordered a used bowl locally that had that tube in it. Over the next few days I will re-clean everything again.

Then why are there 2 different web sites, and two different part numbers and two different prices and if OEM is so great why does everyone needs a new OEM one. Shouldn't OEM last in the 1st place?

I will reopen and inspect. Man i wish I had 1 single carb. This is the exact reason i went to Fuel Injected sportbikes. Since I am in there I am replacing all the fuel lines with clean lines, and installing a brass filter 20 micron inline fuel filter. Give me a few days to respond with more updates. Thanks.

Ricks Motorsport stator are not ricky stators. They are different company's. My spark problem was the cheap Chinese coil the previous owner used. So since the shop charged me $249.95 for the stator I think I will use it. I had soaked carbs in pine-solve, then washed in soap and water, hit with carb cleaner and blown out with air compressior. Bike was then taken to shop so they could rebuilt, sync and jet carbs for me. Every brass piece and seal was new per Moose carb rebuild kits. All items ordered from parts unlimited, not ebay stuff. My last update i specified the bike was fouling plugs out every hours so it was too rich. New jets were bought, installed and went to start. Bowl and carbs sat empty for 2 weeks until my jets arrived.

Long story short...local shop gave me the dick hard. Rebuild it top end, Put in new stator, Jetted it and shoved it out the door just before they closed their doors. YAY NOT! Ok I got over that and got some help on here. My Mods: Boysen Reeds New OEM intake boots OEM crossover tube OEM air box Prodesign oiled foam filter EHS air box lid with mesh Snorkel removed Jetting from the shop (JR's Cycle Shop) Ricks Motorsport Stator 95-96 Ricky Stator spark plug coil (found out it was giving me weak and intermittent spark) OEM harness with all crap removed NKG B9EG plugs Stock carbs 25 Pilot 310 Main Air screw 1.5 turns out from seated position Needle stock @ 3rd clip. Jetting from (BansheeHQ) Ricks Motorsport Stator 95-96 OEM Yamaha spark plug coil OEM harness with all crap removed (to be swapped out with new 95-96 drag harness) NKG B9EG plugs 30 Pilot 280 Main Air screw 1.5 turns out from seated position Needle stock @ 3rd clip Conclustion: The good: I have good spark now The bad: I have no fuel to cylinders I can tell, Clutch side carb does not dump fuel. Throttle side carb is leaking fuel out at bowl seam but is super tight. Carbs were already rebuild and all I did was change jets. Not a big deal. Any ideas? Fuel is only 2 weeks only so it shouldn't be clogged up. I just moved so I have a garage again to rip them back all apart.

I didn't know he was a site sponsor. I have a ebay biz so I just searched there.

I got a hold of that guy on eBay and he made me a 95-96 harness last night and it shipping it this morning for me. Really quick friendly service. For his prices you cant even buy a nice used OEM one. Thanks for the diagram it really helped me figure out what I have.

OK thanks for the help. My CDI was gray 95-96 My stator which the shop bought new months ago was a ricks motosport 95+ white square connector. My harness looks to be 95-96 then. Should i just get a 97+ CDI and a last generation harness or buy a 95-96 harness? I gutted my harness and soldered it all together per schematics i found on here but with weak spark issues that keep poping up I was going to get everything new since I already got a OEM coil.

I have a 1996 and was thinking about buying a new drag or race only harness. I just want the least amount of wires possible to run. I noticed some being sold are for specific year ranged. How can I tell what year range harness I have. Reason I ask because the guy I got it off said it was a 1996. I bought a titled 1998 frame and swapped everything over. However the guy I got it off all he did was buy and throw banshees together to flip for cash so trusting his word when he ended up selling me some lies on other things wouldn't be wise. Let me know I figured they were all the same electrically wise.

I run a +2 HREatv.com antivibe stem with 1-1/8 Honda style clamp. The Yamaha one was so tiny and close together.

You just need to gut your harness and then you can use a YZ style kill switch. that's what I did. See nothing on the bars. Electrical schematics are all over this site and on google for a search. It's not hard to eliminate some things off the bars.

I put a 2007 YFZ450 front master cylinder on mine and just rebuilt my front calipers...that was enough of a difference for me to be happy with total of $50 for a 07 master cylinder, new brake pads and rebuild kits. I did buy a stainless 1 into 2 brake line kit and thru the stock stuff in the scrap can. Not saying I stop on a dime but it feels not different then locking up the front brakes on a friends trx450r. Most times I think people get carried away with trying to make something it is not...rather then just spending money for the correct upgrade parts. If you do swap YFZ calipers on it do your self a favor and open them up to make sure the seals and everything are good...no sense doing all that work then $10 rebuild kits may be needed anyway. Do it right the 1st time and not have to redo it later.

Mike will do anything if you give him enough money and products to work with...trust me I've done stuff you can't do. People have put banshee motors in trx450r's also, I've seen that for a fact. I for a fact know if you build a new banshee frame and narrowed it in the front you could use YFZ450r geometry. It will not be cheap and you would need to provide him both frames and all front end stuff to both so there is no error. It helps when your local to HRE and have many parts to take dimensions off and try and mock up. I have my own self there for builds. All and all a YFZ450 chassis would be a better platform and just do a motor swap...Any thread that has gone 13 pages with no build started is prob just going to be opinion after opinion. Things to remember this will be a 1 off custom job, prob about 3 other people in the would want it if your ever going to sell it. Most MX tracks are set up for 4 strokes now days, or is this just because someone is dead set on banshee to be different which is fine...but spend $10-15K building a great handling machine is also no joke, no back yard bubba tracks. To finish any idea you need money, parts and the drive to make it happen.t.

There are a few routes I feel you could go if you want a raceable banshee... 1st you could do it contact my friend who I know will build any style / type of frame. www.hreatv.com 2nd you could mix and match frames and geometry from better handling bikes, mainly up front is where the banshee's down fall is. 3rd you could use a YFZ chassis and convert everything other. Any banshee owner only owns this bike because of style of motor, nothing else. I am a Honda guy and a 88-89 trx250r with a banshee motor would be a slick route. One know I know has a YZ426F bored to a YZ444F in a trx250r chassis which is a slick ride, I road that bike. Other guy I know uses a 300ex platform and put a WR400F motor in it. I've seen 400ex build for CRF450R motors and TRX250R motors. If your dead set on banshee chassis with banshee motor then I highly suggest custom frame with a YFZ450R front end so your A-arms are as close as possible and you have some rake in the front of the frame which the banshee 100% lacks. You could build any quad for prob $10,000 or less. Basically you need to decide what chassis you would like to use. A slimmer chassis would allow more movement then a fatter one. If you need more information please visit www.hreatv.com If not good luck with whatever you choose. no other company will mix and match and built you a 1 off bike...HRE will. I have him build me 2-3 bikes a year and my last one off a ATC200x with a KX112 motor... HRE is no joke, just no widely known.

Thanks I saw new YZ ones for $9.75 shipped. Mine my of shit the bed due to placing the tie down clamp on my bars now that i think about it since it had no issues before the haul. I prob pulled a wire out. Thank you.

My kill switch shit the bed, funny how they work one day and next they don't. It cased the bike to have no spark. I unhooked the wires and I had spark again. I already had installed a new coil and stator and it ran good before so I know that didn't go bad over night lol. My question: Is there good replacement aftermarket? I road the other week and had to just let the clutch out to stop it. I know for sure the one I had one was off a 01 YZ250F I had left over from parting out. I removed all the torrs junk and soldered all connections properly from my harness so I only have kill switch, coil and wires to make it run. No key, just kick and go like a dirt bike. Just wanted to add the extra information before everyone says to check all that stuff. I am just after a new kill switch to replace the one I had go bad. Thanks in Advance.

Cylinders are sold. Rest is still forsale. Thanks

I did check Partzilla's online diagrams and you are correct. B8ES is a stock plug per partzillas website diagrams. I didn't know that. However I know my coil is not stock...it blue like this $30 ones on eBay. It was on the bike new when I got it. Would that cause any issues and perhaps be the reason the BR8ES plugs were in the bike? When we tested for spark we did see what seemed to be good blue sparks. Tested it at night. I bought 1 size of jets because after this weekend if I even get them in time I will be out of commission until spring. I had enough money left in paypal after paying ebay $500 in fees this month for my online business. Can't buy parts when money is not there. So that is why I got 1 size and will try it. Keep a log of findings when I am around the banks again to run the bike..

I have some spares I no longer want. Skid plate had a few rides on it but comes with all mounting hardware. It has a lifetime warrenty so if you break it you sent it back. I have the peperwork. Cylinders on .60 bore with pistons, rings bearings circlips. Came out of a running banshee, look to have a few bores left also, not sure what the max is on these, but can be sleeved I know also. Headgasket never used Rear OEM black fenders, no craps, a light burn or rub hole from pipe but only on 1 side and not big either. NO front fenders sorry Not sure what this is all worth, make me a fair offer and pay for shipping and I will let it go. 717-675-4472 or contact me on here. I have closer photos of cylinders but it will only let me up load 1 photo right now.