Oldskool83

Just splice it on or swap the contacts?

Plugs are not the same. I have new 95-96 drag harness also. Not sure why they couldn't use one style plug for all years.

Any aftermarket ones decent? I ordered an OEM 95-96 cdi Saturday and it was set to ship to me Tuesday, then i got back ordered message til 23 of the month....I know what back ordered normally means. Take your money and never deliver. I'd just like to ride my bike.

looks nice, just wish i saw more gussets on the arm.

they make a rear fender mount out of aluminum. I run one and it bolts on. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modquad-Rear-Fender-Bracket-Aluminum-For-Yamaha-Banshee-1987-2006-/191201088566?hash=item2c84791436:g:xTYAAOSwnipWT8ro&vxp=mtr The lower mount just weld back on 1/4 tube and drill a hole in it. The factory mounts for the lower fenders are pretty bad. I gusseted my factory frame all up in many places. You can't buy those mounts unless you buy another frame for 1 mount.

partzilla.com buy new ones but my banshee never had fender mounts in the rear lol

new stator, coil, cdi and wiring don't mean crap unless its all OEM...anything else might as well throw away like I had to do since mine ran worse then a dog draggin ass on the floor.

for 75% of the normal trail riders looking for a little extra snap mull head will do fine. I have one and no issues. I didn't need or want all the gaskets, everyone I knew who had cool heads saw leaks at some point. Pump gas guys can stick with stock head by mull. If you got a massive built motor then try cool head.

$352.30 Shipped brand new. I better be destroying hills next week at Sheridan with my wife.

it could be 40 years old but if brand new NOS never used its not going to go bad. hard to find a good used one with all the people who lie on CL and Ebay ya know. partzilla.com has them in stock so somone is still making them new OEM

$360 shipped....it can sit in the corner for a few days right now until I am over being upset with it.

Kill switch or letting clutch out. It will act the same with kill switch plugged in or not. Let sit 20-30 mins fires right up if kicking. run it under 5 mins it will kick start right back up, longer DOA on spark. Looking at CDI's now, not sure if I should try a good aftermarket one or stick to OEM. Does it surprise me I have a CDI issue?...not totally only because when I got the bike there were some good marks on the voltage regulator from rocks hitting it hard. I can only imagine if something hit the VR something prob hit the CDI also. One of the reasons I relocated everything up front in a safer more protected spot. Owned many bikes built ground up never seen one act like this. May have been luck. Dynatek or new OEM. I am not sold on the idea of buying a used on working because well 95-96 wiring is already 20 years old...a used one could get me a good ride or two and then crap out on me. If I go new I should be able to get a good 10+ years I'd hope.

You got back to me and told me all the stuff I needed to know. That's cool by me!

Update...tested and working OEM stator and non-messed up flywheel off a 2000 installed. Started up 1st kick...ran great. Turned it off. Went to restart...nope...no spark again. Process of elimination of all non OEM parts are gone and still have the problem. CDI is only thing I have not touched. Was hoping it would be ready for this weekend.

I was only saying if mull said it will help you get it. I had all my mods done before I did their head mod. Trying to get or set a bike up with out the parts is nearly impossibly, you can get close but every machine is different.

This site burns me out. Everything has to be a cocky response, never a help a guy out.

So why are you on here asking for help them. He told you what to do. Spend $119 get a little better usable power. I didnt need to rejet. im at 500-1000ft

Why does he need new plastic because it has stickers on it? $10 on chemical will remove all those stickers and shin thing up nice? And go ride in the mud and slop and see where your water lays on the case...lays right by the stator and stay there. A 1/4" -1/2" hole helps nothing stay and collect there. Get off your high horses on here. Looks like the guy is trying the best with that he has.

Drill a few holes in the bottom of your case by chain. Water will not pool there and seep is way past the stator gasket on long rides. To remove stickers you use Keen paint stripper in a spray can. let it soak and they will fall off. you can shin your plastics back up with wd40 and mildly abrasive steel wool. Then use brake fluid for a shin up and it will soak into the plastics. been doing that for 26 years........

I'd rather just money to charity then buy fake parts.

Best seats I've ever had are http://cosmicquads.com/ They have done every machine I own, restore to custom. Flipped bikes in coal rocks and never even ripped seat covers. Tammy goes great work.

Napa has machine shops at some stores. I take my stuff to them. $50 bore job and sized for next piston.

I emailed JDS

lol they are a penny more then alba. Might as well buy thru alba unless JDS gives a discount.

I didn't yet. I have a compression tester I could try. From kicking it over it felt a tad harder but not too much. My bike was all stock just rebuilt topend on stock size pistons