F1HDR

yes, it'll eliminate water that will score and rust internal parts.

I'd do it every change but that's just me. I change my oil every 5k but I also have an engine that's known for catastrophic failures due to poor lubrication. lol Like rubberneck said, if they look good and you don't have problems, go with what you feel, just keep an extra behind the seat for when that shitty tank strikes.

Bear with me for a minute 'cause I kinda have to nerd out for a second to explain it properly. I recommend BG DFC+ HP (just stands for diesel fuel conditioner + high pressure) After being to several classes and witnessing several lab tests, along with real life experience, it's the only stuff I run or suggest. The additives you see at parts stores or fuel stations aren't bad for your engine, BUT, 99% of them are basically diesel fuel mixed with alcohol. Which does zero for lubrication, it dries out seals, and it's not subject to any standards whatsoever. "Perfect" diesel fuel has an API rating of 36. All this means is that when you buy something with a diesel engine and its advertised at XXX horsepower - it'll only put out that horsepower with API 36 fuel that's kept at 60 degrees. Most #2 diesel is pretty close (90-95% perfect) and usually has an API of 33-35. #1 diesel is used in winter blends because it's lighter and can tolerate colder temps, however it really starts to drop away from perfect. Straight #1 is somewhere around 70% perfect and has an API down in the upper 20's or lower 30's. A typical winter blend is 50/50 so if you start with 95% pure #2 and splash mix it with 70% pure #1 - you end up with a fuel that is only 80% pure, but has pretty decent cold weather capability. However! None of that matters a whole lot anymore because there's so much FUCKING WATER in the shit when it goes in your tank. And I don't just mean the water you can see in the bottom of a fuel/water separator. When you can see water under your fuel, it means theres at least that much entrained and suspended up in the fuel that can't drop out due to the gravity of the water already in the bottom. We don't get temps as cold as you do in MI but it'll get well below zero sometimes, We usually see at least a few night of -15ish. I've been working on diesel junk for 15 years and I've really only seen one machine "gelled" up. All the cold weather problems I run across is frozen water in a line or filter, not gelled fuel. Water is used to strip the sulfur out of our fuel at the refinery to achieve "ultra low sulfur diesel", water is used to separate fuels and oils in the pipeline during transport, who knows how much condensation a tanker truck has in it when he loads at the pipeline terminal, and who knows how how moisture that 10 degree fuel pulls out of the ground when it's dumped into an underground tank and is warmed back up to 65 degrees...................get my point? So why did I explain all that? BG is the only additive that raises the API without needing blended fuel, it's the only additive that adds lubrication that you can actually measure, it's the only additive that actually removes water and lowers #2's gelling point to -40, It's good shit.

How often do you change oil? I change it every time on mine just so I know it's always fresh. I know guys that run them 30k or more. I'm also just anal. Keep in mind I repair equipment with fuel related injuries at least 2 or 3 times a week. Lol. Every other oil change is probably fine as long as you stay consistent. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Local shop needs an education. Run additive. Every tank. Year round. If you do the math, additive will save you money. Simple as that. Yes, all trucks will run on the diesel you get out of the pump. But diesel fuel out of the pump is technically not ready to use anymore. There's so much water, and so little lubrication in it it's ridiculous. Some systems tolerate it better than others but water is very hard on pumps, valves, plungers, tips, you name it. Diesel shops are so busy because of our fuel. PS. That Dodge looks way better now than it did in that car lot. Lol. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That Ford would fit right in around my place if it had more shiny parts. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I sat through a 3 hr class last night that was specifically about modern diesel fuel, chemical makeup of it, API ratings, BTU values and so on. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Regardless of what anyone says, that fuel filter should be changed when you change oil. That black stuff is what happens to fuel in these modern high pressure common rail systems. The high heat and extreme pressure basically burns some of the fuel just in the rail. BG DFC+ fuel additive will solve that problem in the first tank. It's the ONLY stuff I recommend or use. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

My 94 GMC has 305k. That being said it hasn't moved in about 3 years. Lol Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ban Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Idk honestly. I think they're down on the front cover near the dampner. Seems like I replaced one down in there once. What's up with the tranny? It should only be on #2 at the most with 212k. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What do you mean "breaking down"? Like cutting out? Or losing power? If it's got a crank sensor code I'd put a crank sensor in it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Ya. I highly doubt an injector is causing that. Most likely the lift pump getting weak or fuel filter needing changed. I'd change the filter and see if it goes away.

I had a feeling you had your shit done correctly. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Turns over slow then starts? or just turns over too long before it starts? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lmao. Better put 6 in or you'll just chase your tail. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

You're not having fun until it hits 1500 Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lots of people put them before. I've seen them break and I'm smart enough to add 150 degrees to whatever it reads. 99% of people don't actually know what a safe temperature is for their engine anyhow. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Drivers side manifold has a big stupid tube sticking up off of it by valve cover. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Wasn't on mine. There's a back pressure sensor but that's a thing of the past now. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Until the probe rots off and goes through your turbo. I never put them before the turbo. Seen them wipe out too many turbine wheels. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Sweet. I'm not really familiar with performance stuff on the older 7.3's. (Like Tabata's, not the early 00's like your old one). My brother owns a diesel injection pump performance shop so I'm more in tune with the manual tuning. Learning about electronics though. My 6.4 has impressed me after minimal mods. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Damn. 30 lbs with a 7.3 sounds like alot. I bet that's a pulling machine. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It's actually both. The whole purpose of them is to remove air and water from the fuel. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I can understand that then. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk