Rigid_Banshee

Clutch adjustment could be wrong at the actuator arm is the arrow mark on top of the case lined up with the actuators pointed end ?

those look to be the mounting bolts for the pickup coil on the stator plate, the nut could either be for the cylinders or the head.

Well its prob right fat and doesnt want to go anywhere with a 190 in it

if you want to be safe and have very minimal wear on your clutch and transmission you can run 2 quarts if you want but 1 and a half to 1.6 is recomeneded. Dont worry about blowing the crank seals the transmission and clutch are both vented through a tube on the top case under the rear motor mount. just some more info if you want

Theres little x markings on the bottom of the dipstick i presume if you have the stock one ? if so dont fill it past those little markings. like what it says on the cover above the kickstart 1600ml only. its notin lol.

Could even be slightly retarded timing send pics of the stator side with the timing plate attached if you can't figure out what its set at. Could possible even tell you who makes the plate not that it matters lol

Not neccessarlily the crank can be just enough out of phase enough to advance the timing put still be able to fire at the right moment, you said when your giving it gas its fine and runs great ? deff sounds like timing and I wouldnt count on the timing being set to 0 especially on a dune. Is there a degree section on your adjustable timing plate ? if there isnt your still running the stock one which is ok or its some "taiwan rip off plate" if the flywheel key looked great than I would also bet the cranks out of phase.

Is fuel getting to the carb bowls ? the petcock inlet tubes could be clogged try switching to reserve

What is the timing set at ? How does the flywheel key look ? Whoever moded this motor out likely didn't use proper torque specs let alone a manual.

Got a set on my shee man get them.

While he's in the gearbox might aswell do a shiftstar mod if there isn't one already Its pretty easy.

Key should just slide on no prob unless a P.O knowing jack shit fucked with it.

Same had switch to Elka stage 3's to compensate for the extra length, other than that they're fine.

The Namura's don't work with an aftermarket head I've tried theres major compression issues much too low the dome angle is simply too small. Wiseco, Vito's Super Stock or OEM if you want when running the aftermarket head.

Doing maintenance in the house isn't so bad as long as it's not out of a shed fuck I've seen some butcher shee motors go together in sheds

Lol what a site

2 words. Crank and Seal

The Pistons in the photo are stock Yamaha puts a fat ugly arrow to point to the exhaust side instead of stamping one like Wiseco does

Beautiful pieces they look great with Mattoon Cases when everythings polished to a tee.

Nice intake man I'll post a pic of what a backyard mechanic port job looks like when I get home lolol building an MX Shee motor and wanted to do an MX port till I found the carnage

The flywheel key should have no signs of shearing or deep gouges in it. If it doesnt its fine. and dont forget to replace any of the shims and clips in the tranny aswell as the e clips on the shift fork shafts.

Replace the plugs at the bottom of the cylinders... if you didnt take them out before you had the cylinders coated then they're toast if you didnt put that special sealer on before you installed the new ones they will leak too had the same problem building my MX shee.

Amsoil Interceptor 40:1 for the gas Havoline for coolant (the orange shit) and Amsoil gearsaver in the tranny. If you say $$ isnt an issue then always buy synthetic oils great protection for high revving motors like the shee's castor will also work great

Alba Racing ? Love em. Got my nerf bars, bumper and A-arms of them, wouldn't hesitate to give them a call anyday.