dailydrifter

A hole in the silencer would not dramatically change the power output. If your broke or cheap than a patch works.

Then it'll be 40.2 hp

Went to install a high flow impeller today and noticed the gear looks worn. What do you guys think? Looks to me like the leading edge of the teeth are wearing out. Or is that the way it's supposed to be?

Thanks for the input guys. Cleanup port and wiesco's it is

So I'm going to be redoing my top end in the fall unless it pops before then . I'm thinking of either having the cylinders ported and putting in wiesco's or leaving the ports alone and installing vitos SS pistons. My number one priority is to retain the best possible gas mileage with horsepower second. Which option would be best or is there another option I haven't thought of. My mods are k&n pods, stock carbs, dmc 916, 21cc domes, +4 timing, VF4, run on 94 octane. This is a 100% trail bike. I also plan to have the bottom end freshened up during the rebuild and the crank trued and welded. Maybe some tranny mods while the cases are split.

I think it's the engine that is in the z1, and f1100turbo arcticcat sleds.

Never mind the question was answered in another thread

Could I get some close up pics of shocks? Also what are they setup for?

Just to stir the pot I'm going to add my 2 cents to the whole one piece is stronger than 2 pieces welded together debate. If you were to butt weld 2 pieces of steel together assuming that the weld was a 100% full penetration and no discontinues existed with in the weld metal (slag, porosity) then the weld would actually be stronger then the parent material assuming proper filler material was used. The problem is that the area of parent material directly beside the weld becomes affected. This area is called the heat affected zone. This region of material will definitely have less strength then the weld or the original unaffected steel. So unless your willing to go to extreme lengths (heat treating and radiograpghy) to ensure that the grain structure is normalized throughout the whole part and no flaws exist within the weld then 1 piece will definitely be stronger then 2 welded together.

I use the lucas oil aswell with no issues

I wasn't sure if some model years didn't have material back there. Smart ass

Where are you getting the lexan and seal from? I'd like to try this

Did you cut out the material behind the cover that is held on with 3 screws?

What weight are they setup for?

I just made the switch from stock length to -2. It is awesome in the trails. It makes popping the front end up over fallen trees so much easier as well as turning into corners. I wouldn't recommend it if the trails you ride have a lot of steep hill climbs though

Any plans to add annodizing as an option?

How much for front and rear fenders?

What carbs do you plan to use?

I'm sure someone with a lot more knowledge then me will chime in but I don't think 80hp is achievable on stock bore and stroke. Maybe with a lot of compression and high octane fuel?

Go to a smaller carb

If you guys can't make a deal on that axle then let me know.

Be careful buying from this guy. I bought the -2 swingarm. The picture provided was obviously taken when the swingarm was in far better condition. He claimed through pm that the bearings were 3 months old but they were shot. Was packaged in nothing more then plastic wrap when it arrived. Questioned him through pm about the condition of the bearings but was ignored. Now I have a swingarm that needs new paint and all new bearings.

I have a set of sst silencers. Make an offer

A lot easier to adjust chain tension and it looks better. Also a round carrier has two rows of bearings which is better for obvious reasons

I'm rebuilding a fireball swingarm and need to know what bearings to get. For the pivot tube it looks like stock bearings will work but for the roundhouse bearings I'm not sure what to get. Can anyone point me in the right direction. It's a 35mm carrier.