tfaith08

That's the only simple way I could determine that would provide vertical support. I'll scrap it. That pretty much winds up all the questions I had about the chassis unless there's something else that I've overlooked.

I just want to shave weight. I can't just run off the end of the lowest tube because I'd have to either hack the nerfs or start hacking on the frame even more to make it fit. If I was to weld on an insert, it would have to have additional support. It's just the insert and one bracing tube. That's as simple and effective as I could figure. I think I could net 3lbs from doing this. If it won't work, I'll scrap the idea but I want to find a solution if it's possible to make it work safely and effectively.

This is what I was thinking. Open to suggesions. Green arrow references the rear of the frame.

Yes, it'll need to be more durable for sure, but I don't want that cluster. I've been thinking about it and I think that the 6" x 15/16 OD insert tubing would do well inside of some 15/16 ID (probably 1.5" long) that will also act as a stop for the nerfs. I could gusset the outer piece. A1 is for fags.

Seamless 4130. A1 is for fags.

I definitely want more cut off than that. A1 is for fags.

Can someone link the thread? I've seen it before, but I can't find it on taptalk. A1 is for fags.

I'm ordering materials to do the chassis tonight or tomorrow. Does anyone have any idea on how I should go about welding the pro-peg insert to the chassis and eliminate the stock bolt cluster? I want to get rid of that entire area if possible and just have the tube for the nerfs and a stop but I want it to be strong enough to withstand jumps and worst-case scenarios. The F43 inserts are 15/16" x.120 wall. I'm also ordering 1/2" .065 wall to gusset the radiator support and the lower steering stem area and 3/4" .065 to replace the front bracing behind the front bumper. Anything else I may need?

I really liked my Hookups until I went to Holeshots. Now I don't like my duros. They're fine until they get some wear on them, at which point the grip falls off substantially more than other tires that I've tried with similar amounts of wear. Good tire while they last though.

Yes, pipes are available. A1 is for fags.

No shit, JD makes subframes. I'll get up with you in a little bit, JD.

Do you have some greater knowledge to impart?

Thoughts on welding pro-peg inserts in place to eliminate the stock cluster of bs where the pegs mount?

Yeah, forgot to add that. Definitely a bolt-on.

What wall thickness would you guys recommend? .083"? .095"?

I'm on the verge of just doing it myself if I have to. I already have a welder and 2 backup welders, one of which does restoration, one does all the welding on every crane where I work, one builds Ford drag chassis. Stellar told me a few weeks back that they were backed up, JL seems to stay behind, and I'm waiting on a response from Turbo Chassis right now. This plus lower fender brackets is what I want:

What options do I have for a chromoly subframe with rear fender brackets? A1 is for fags.

I haven't ruled it out, but it's not at the top of my priorities list. I lack the means to weld aluminum or have it welded without going to a metal works shop (big $$).

That's a pretty valid point. I believe we're getting into Thacker territory now. Should we phone him in? I haven't given it enough thought quite yet. I'll probably have a good idea which route I'd like to take by the time I get this frame done. A1 is for fags.

Well shit. A1 is for fags.

If it wasn't for the DT ride, I'd be doing a lot more work and have more time for it. I've been sold on an aftermarket chassis for a long time. I wonder if an outlaw is made to use 250r components if it would accept a pro-trax front end from a 250r... A1 is for fags.

Thanks. I appreciate all that. It will be around a year or so before I can get around to it. I need to get the wife's blaster built (lots of work there), bills paid off, and a new truck sometime soon. I just need to get this chassis going for now to make the DT ride. A1 is for fags.

It would come down to an aftermarket chassis. I'm chasing down an outlaw right now. If that doesn't pan out, I'm just gonna get this thing going like I want and buy a Laeger's chassis down the road. After shocks, it'll be up to around $10k. A1 is for fags.

That totals $4800. I don't think $3500 would be unreasonable for putting that frame into an unknown environment that it wasn't intended for (but very well may work well). I've got $3100 in suspension components. I won't expect more than $2000 for all of it when I sell it. That's a slightly lower percentage of the total cost than I said I'd consider for yours. (72% if we get down to it). But I couldn't use your swingarm or shock. I'd need the front end wider. I'd probably run into some kind of fitment issues with the radiator and pipes, tank shroud, etc. since I'd be running more stuff on it than you were from the last I saw. Take that $4800 and knock off the $1300-1500 for the shock (by your estimate) and it's down to $3500, then I'd have to source those components myself and be down for a good month or more. ($1700) and selling the ones you're using for $1100-1500)Then I'm still at what looks like 44" or so, which I need more of, so that's custom a-arms. ($1k) and shocks ($1600) minus selling the ones on it ($1300-1500) By my estimate, it would take roughly $7k to get that chassis to do what I need after powder and odds and ends. I'll call laegers first. A1 is for fags.

It would be hard for me to pay $1500 for just a chassis. I'd do $3500 for the chassis, swingarm, shocks, and a-arms, but even then it's a stretch for me since I need a wider front end than I'm assuming yours is. If I did $2500 worth of work to a chassis and then used it, I wouldn't expect more than $1500 for it. A1 is for fags.