tfaith08

Get some carb rebuild kits and set the floats as per the manual. Good to see that you're doing a leak test. Remember that an engine that's just a hair lean may present with detonation once you add timing. Get the jetting right (via plug chop), THEN add timing. Make sure you have your filter clean and oiled and that you use E10 93 gas if you ever switch back and forth. Jetting with E10 and running mogas is fine. Jetting for mogas and then running E10 will make it a tad lean (by stoichometry, about 4% lean). Jetting with a dirty filter will make you leaner once you clean it. None of these is major, but all of these going wrong at once and them adding timing will probably start eating the piston. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to know. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They were out of stock last time and place I checked. That was my original thought.

It's from a blaster. I don't think it's the best solution as it has to be bent to keep from hittting the stator cover.

21cc domes are just fine at sea level with +4 timing on 93 PENDING JETTING.

F43 nerf measurements are as follows: Width from peg mounting points on frame to widest point: 16.5" Total width of nerfs installed: appx. 46" Distance from rear-most point on nerfs to axle on -1" swingarm: 10.5 Peg width: 2.5 Peg length from peg mounting point on frame: 9.25 Peg position (center) from stock (center): appx. 1.75" Pics to follow

They're JDS pegs and are for sale. I'll take some pictures of them and the nerfs tomorrow when I get the chance. I discovered that AC made nerfs with relocated pegs the day after these arrived. They're about $80 cheaper. AC makes some nice stuff, but these are just so much easier to get used to and feel so much mroe natural than the ones that I've tried. Plus, these pegs are like glue.

$420

They're the only nerfs I'll ever use. Well worth the money. Got them less than 3 weeks from when I ordered. The pegs have so much grip that it's nuts.

More recent, still not current.

Not current, just keeping the thread alive.

Is this because of current budget or do you have some other bias towards a shaved head as opposed to a head with interchangeable domes? I'd personally save up for a head that uses interchangeable domes. Chariot, Pro-Design, or a Noss Machine head are all good options. If you upgrade down the road, you can still use the head and just buy different domes without having to have the head modified further.

Buy one from a site sponsor on here that is welded and has an upgraded drive side bearing. They generally go for $400-$450 depending on the sponsor.

I'll be running race gas but I'm undecided on which. May run oxygenated, may not. I'll have to call all the tracks we race at and see if they have any limitations. Either way, I'll be on race gas of some sort but it'll probably end up being VP110 or C12.

I didn't build it with those. I bought it off the floor with those on it. I've been working on suspension and controls.

I'm not jumping straight to that setup. I'm doing the engine first and then changing pipes and carbs if I need more. I think I'll be sitting on around 70hp with T5s and stock carbs with that engine. I may try SLPs, but I don't think I'll have enough overrev. Then again, 3 back-to-back posts that disagree with what I'm planning is a red flag. I may divert to a ported 4mil stock cyl on race gas. Idc what engine I have to build. When I say go, it needs to go without question. A gear high, up a hill, idgaf. That's my intent. Also, I'm on a -1 swingarm.

I'll never beat a bike in the corners on a rutted track no matter how much power I make. I need to be able to outrun them on the straights and on groomed tracks. I'm losing ground in corner exits and straights. I didn't know that. That puts him back at the top of the list for me. I have access to a dyno and a full shop to do the build, so it'll come down to the quote he gives me. As it was, I was looking at a $600-$650 price difference with me doing the labor, case porting, and shipping both ways. I'll see what he has to say.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/178758-redline-421-race-gas-serval/ That's the build that I'm copying. Not necessarily a number but a power curve. I need enough power no matter where I find myself on the track. I've found that there are a few tracks around here that you need some big, big power for. I also want enough power to outrun most dirt bikes since I often have to share a track with them on practice days. I'm so glad you chimed in, idk what I was thinking. I'm building it very specifically to race in AMA Junior (25+) 201cc-open ATV MX and outpower everything that is likely to pop up. I'm currently going through a set of 18" MXR6 Holeshot rears every 1-3 months depending on the track we go to. I've got a stack of 4 more after this set goes, so my tire plan does not match my expectations in longevity that I expect from my engine. Idk where you'd get such an erroneous thought.

I'm buying all the components from FAST and he'll likely be the one to port it. He doesn't advertise pro-mod cutting and I haven't asked him about it, so I may send the trans and cylinders to Redline. Alternatively, the trans will be going to camatv and Jeff will port it. I'll be assembling it though. I'm building it strictly to race in open 2-stroke MX. I can still see the factory hone marks in my cylinders and have only lost 1% of the compression since I bought it new. I've had 90ish tanks through it, so if that's any indication as to how long the engine will last, the timescale won't be a matter of races, it'll be a matter of seasons. Cryo is going to be 300-500 and coating is gonna be about $150. If that gets me one additional season out of it, it'll be worth it to me. Can you elaborate? I'm sure there are at least 2 members on here that have done it and numerous guys over on 2strokeworld have a lot of good to say about it. I'm not trying to do anythying groundbreaking, I'm trying to do a little extra to make it more reliable. I'm in no hurry to have it done either so as far as I see it, it's a matter of whether I should work an extra day and a half of overtime to get what I'm asking about. That's what I'm looking for.

I'm saving for a ported 4mil serval on race gas, pro-mod trans, etc., and was wondering whether I should include cryo-treating and coatings in the budget. I'm convinced that it works, just 100% sure that it will be of any substantial benefit to MY application. So far, I've come up with these: -TBC (thermal barrier coating) on the crown, domes, and exhaust ports -Oil shedding coatings on some of the following: rods, cases, underside of the pistons (unsure of which yet) -Cryo-treat crank, rods, and cases Next, I probably won't be doing these: -I have found 2 research papers that state that cryo-treating will alter all aluminum alloys yet will do so in different ways depending on grade, so that's a no-go. -Moly and poly-moly coatings absolutely work, but will alter tolerances = not gonna deal with it -I've found numerous forum entries on several forums that state wildly varying conclusions on cryo-treating gears, so I'm gonna chalk that up to application variables and the different user's attention to detail during assembly skewing the results. Am I too far off track here? Is there somethign that I'm overlooking? Thanks in advance.

I'd send a PM but you're gonna have a few more ask, so how much for an axle?

Mine was a tight fit. Not overly tight, but it did need a little push to get it seated.

If you want to gauge the cooling ability, measure the radiator temps. The radiator will get hotter when all other factors are the same. The hotter the radiator gets, the more heat is being drawn by the head. If my banshee hasn't overheated with the Chariot head with the way I ride it, you have to be either stupid or insanely abusive to overheat yours.

X3 Chariot