fixitrod

Those domes are cut 2mm deeper than standard dome unless you have something crazy going on to make up the 2mm stroke each way. Something has to be adjusted.

Here's another chrome pic

there's a couple pics here of chrome.. but the pics aren't the best. http://www.duncanracing.com/photoalbum/

spray paint and saftey wire. The nice thing about spray paint it can withstand some water. If you get hairspray, jelly, or something like that wet, it'll loosen up on you.

If you want stock looking pipes get black paul turners.

But, you have to remember the usuable power is the most important part. Sounds like Jim shoots for usable power... not just rpms and power. I would like to see a pic of the dyno Schizo !!!! If you don't want to post it, email it to me at [email protected]. If you don't want me to post it, just tell me and I won't. Thanks A Lot.

Man, this just sucks ass. I want to go.

www.carbparts.com

Maybe you just not getting enough air mixed with the fuel.. ie... bigger carbs

also add some type of air filter system and most likely a clutch. You'll need port work too. You'll have to have a spacer place or have the stock head cut or domes cut for the 2mm increase in stroke. It's a lot of $$$

I'm not super good at the jetting thing but I will say that pilot and needle work hand and hand. You may need to increase the pilot and drop the needle. I know you've done both, but it doesn't sound like at the same time. You may find out your may could use a bump to.

Great point. If you have a good stock crank, you can have port work done to your cylinders and gain considerable power. If you plan to stroke it later, let the builder know so they don't "over port" then engine. I have a stroker, but that's because my crank went.

In indiana you do not need to have a title. It's like a bicycle. But, if you get the vin inspection, then add numbers that the state assigns your frame, get another vin inspection to prove you added the numbers to the fram you can get a title for it. I have mine titled just in case. You will have to pay tax but that's where "home made" helps. You didn't buy it or you can say it was a couple hundred.

That is correct. You need to use red lock-tite on the screws. It's also suggest that you "ping" the end of the screws after they are tight so they can't back out. Make sure you have new cushions too to put in there.

In indiana you are suppose to have a mvin assigned to any frame that is built. It's as simple as having a police officer fill out a vin inspection saying there is no vin and it was a custom build. You may also need the receipt for proof of not being stolen. The vin inspection is $5. I know this is hind sight, but maybe if you have the reciept for the frame you can get it done. Also, I'd get paperwork saying you tried to get it out with a date so that you can argue paying the storage fee for the extra time that it didn't need to sit there.

His username was dunedemon. Here's the link http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...&hl=rear+spring

Indiana has haspin acres and the badlands.

Every motor is different. If you engine requires more fuel to run at peak performance for the porting you have you will notice gains. It probably will use more fuel.. but it needs to for the performance. Here's an example. Do you think a 2 barrel carb will work on a big drag car the same as a couple 850 double pumpers. It still gets fuel with the 2 barrel... but it won't run right.

If it's shaking real bad you may have something else wrong like the clutch or the sand is hard and your just feeling the paddles. If the sand is hard then a big paddle probably isn't what you want.

what type of intake and air filters are you running with this set-up?? I run Grand River Racing intakes and an airbox. The easiest way is pod filters though.

1200-1300 is about right. Crank, port work, head cut (I didn't use a spacer), seals and gaskets. I had a tz bearing added to my crank. Here's what you have to remember though. If you do this you'll want bigger carbs. So, you need to add the expense of the intakes, carbs, boots for the airbox or pod filters, and you'll have to move the airbox back. All expenses to take into account. You may want to start with a fresh clutch while you are at it. Nothing is as simple as it seems. If your crank is shot, go for it. If not, hang in there. It'll go on you sooner or later. If you have the extra $$$ and just want to do it, go for it. You'll see great results. My name is Rodney if you call Andy. You also have NYUK that has andy's frame and lots of Andy's work.. His name is John. If you talk to Andy or leave him a message you can tell him to talked to me. Patriot (Dan) and PassionRE (Jim) are great builders to. It's a tough decision. There are other great builders out there too. You don't have to limit yourself to the select few a lot of people use on the board, but you most likely won't be steered wrong. Good Luck with the build. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them or find an answer.

It doesn't really. Chain lube is to protect the plates from the outside and keep the o-rings conditioned. The orings keep the grease on the pins between the plates. If an oring fails...ie...breaks, then I imagine the lube will get down to the pins.

Have you seen the price of milk.... lmao.....

I got a brake block off from Stan and it's nice. You should see the billet on his bike. If you are looking for billet and custom, check him out. Nice stuff.

Best mod I've ever done to the cooling system.