B.b.p builders

Ya well coolant coming out of the pv bolt holes right side only.

Oh also is it normal for coolant to come out of the threads of the powervalve bolts? Had to drain my coolant just to change the valves? I started with right side. Didn't bother losening the other side to see if the same thing happend.

Putting them in now and will try it out, can I contact u direct for more advice. I have read many of your post, and you been working with that motor for some time now. Much more exp. then I.

10mil mike, really that bad eh? With the valves in? 100% the motor was built without the pv. I'm going to put the block off plates in and see. About to do so now. I don't want to turn this into a pv or block off plate was, I read many threads its been done too many times. Any more help from those who know, won't go unread, been checking this thread every ten min. Lol! I'm hurting here with this!

I don't see a p on the needle, (maybe worn off?) all I see is E1 the is in caps. The stator is not half rapped in red, I do have another one invthe mail. The plugs first few threads are like brand new. However the strap is dark colored

It's really as bad as almost as soon 1/4 throttle hits. Tons of torque rite away. Needle in carbs says E1 Pipes are shearer big bore I haven't tried the block off plates yet buy will today I guess. But I just can't see The pv causing this bad of an issue?

I always meds up when trying to reply to specific quote. Yes they are good, I had to cut them to make them perfect before I put the motor together. Another member here "camatv" warned me about that when we were talking about pv and adding them to this motor.

I bought the motor from a Bhq member. Said to be k&t ported. It came with the block off plates in it. I bought the pv to try them out. Cheetah head with domes cut by Titan for alcohol.

Also is tuning a lectron as easy as once your needle is set where you have a good idle and good throttle response, it should be good to go, ready for power jet tuning. I should mention this is my first lectron

Yes they clear nicely, I get no power at all when motor is under load it seems. I do have a set of block off plates I could try.

Yes they clear nicely, I get no power at all when motor is under load it seems

It's a 535 cheetah, lectrons running methanol. First start up, it was ritch, so I adjusted the needles and now have a great idle and a very nice throttle response when sitting and blurping the gas. Timeing plate is at plus 4, with a dynatek cdi on curve 3. Problem is bike has great response from low idle when riding at say 1/4 throttle, as soon as you hit hi reves or anything above 1/4 throttle it has nothing! I tried adjusting the power jets and less fuel makes it worse, jets are turned wide open. I tried stock cdi with no change symptoms. Stator maybe? Not producing enough spark? Carbs are Packard carbs, 40mm put together for a 535 on alcohol. With Packard bowls. Any help from those with similar set up, or knowledge in this would be much obliged. I have another stator on the way, but will be a cpl days, not sure why, but that's what I'm leaning towards. Also the motor has the power valves in it. Could it be? The problem does feel the same as when my cr250 power valve wasn't set properly. But these valves are not controlled with a cable like those. I did clean the pv good befor installation.

Place is called wheels a churning. Brockville ? Is that the place you are thinking of? They have 3 races a year, I missed the first one next one is July 25 weekend then another I. Sept. I just got to get this thing dialled in. Where r u located? R u James? If so we talked on the phone before. I was going to build a cub at that time, but decided to get this 10mil cheetah

I just recently got my bike together and running, here in ON Canada there is not much for a drag Racing scene but there is a race coming up in 4 weeks time that I hear is a pretty decent turn out(for around here) this weekend I'm going to test and tune the bike, I'm wondering what a decent time is. They do 400' dirt track. Most of my research I usually see 300' tracks. Not looking for any crazy fast times, just what would be a decent time I should be shooting for? Bike is a 535 cheetah, runs on methanol. Stock frame.

Yes problem is fixed by removing the 8th plate. I'm sure I will be fine with the 7 plates like you say. Bike has not been on a dyno, but judging by others i hope to be rite around that 120hp #.

I didn't get a chance to read that, I think you are 100% right!! Now that you mention it, I believe those tabs were to close and not allowing it to release.

I took the 8th plate out and clutch works perfect. Nobody has delt with this problem? I guess to run 8 plates you must need a longer pancake bearing? Thanks for the suggestions. Clutch is fine now with 7 plates

Or is there 2 different length pancake bearing adjusters? Longer to give more adjustment for the bigger basket.

I have this apart again but removing that ball on the end of the rod makes no sense at all. Now adding another one would make more sense then removing. I'm not sayingvthatsvthe answer, just saying. It's like because of the added plate it can't move out enough to release the clutch plates ?

Ummm I don't know?? Am I? Does anyone know about this, leaving of the ball out with a 8 plate sling shot style lock up? The ball and rod are both in and they are 100% not seized.

I'm sorry for the confusion, hard to get help if one does not use the right words. (First post said clutch not in gauging , when I ment to say it is not dis Ingauging ) The plate is for sure indexed, and for sure making contact as the problem is the clutch is not releasing pressure when pulled. As in, pull the clutch in, with motor running, shift into gear and its no different then slamming it into gear without pulling the clutch at all. Another guy I talked to said he had the same problem, so he pulled the extra clutch plate and reset it and it worked fine. Any other good suggestions guys? I'm going to pull it back apart tomorrow after work

The pressure plate is a sling shot. I did not see any marks on it to line up with clutch boss? If that's what u mean? Do you run a sling shot?

Problem is clutch is not in-gauging, I set it like the manual says, (done it many times with a stock set up) by adjusting the adjuster until its lining up the push lever with the mark on case. Never done it with a pancake bearing and or a lock up. When it is set and lined up the lever at the handle bars does get stiff, seems too stiff. Set up is a mattoon 7-8 plate basket(useing 8 plates)with a Vito's sling shot lock up and pancake bearing. Has anyone ran into this problem? The ball bearing and push rod are not seized and are in good shape Any helpfull advice would be much appreciated.