2005shee

sorry its a little late on the reply just noticed but it was the throttle cable adjustment on the left carb. it was loose and wasn't pulling the slide at the same time as the right.

forgot to get back with you guys but yesterday a did some more adjusting and finally got it going right, thanks for all the help!

sorry didn't explain earlier the tors system is still there but the wires have been cut

well I got em off and cleaned and went to make sure they were synced and I got them level but when I touch the throttle the right ones immediate but it comes up about an 1/8th of an inch before the left and it does it no matter how much I adjust the left side. could it be a worn throttle cable or just loose? pretty sure this is my problem.

quick question whats a good starting place for the a/f? 1.5?

taking carbs off as I speak wil post back when I get done

from what I understand 125-130 is normal for stock

and yes carbs are clean too

no tors, havent done a leakdown test, reeds don't show anything noticeable but have not formally checked them. carbs were synced last week. haven't checked electrical either but I figured since even when I switched the plug wires it did the same thing it wouldn't be electrical, could it still have something to do with it?

okay my banshee is an 05 only performance things are toomeys and a K AND N, airbox lid off and wiseco pistons. its acting funny, at idle the right side idles higher then the left and warms up much quicker like the right pipe will be too hot to touch but I can grab the left one. when completely cold like first time starting for the day sometimes when I pull out the left cylinder acts like its not even firing, no smoke comes out but only when I take off sometimes, also I can feel when driving slow the left cylinders power will kick in and out and it will jerk but again only when cold. once warm it pulls great its fast as crap but still the left side idles lower. ive changed plugs switched wires and no matter what same results, any ideas? also compression on cylinders is within 2 psi of each other, the left one being 116 and the right being 118.

please text me at 6063048881. interested in the kickstart lever

looking for a kickstarter lever all I need is the lever that slides over the shaft I don't need the part that goes onto the gearshaft. condition doesn't really matter as long as its useable.

I see now, thanks for being so helpful I really appreciate it.

ok thanks. whats the difference exactly is it longer or something?

anyone?

thanks and aother quick question can I buy just the pancake bearings or do I need to buy the kit that comes with the rod and everything just asking cause I have a good adjuster screw and housing thing that I bought at the dealership before I knew the pushrod and ball were bad too.

got the clutch basket off the other day forgot to tell you guys. I went out side to give it a few more go's before taking it to the shop and it came off almost immediately not sure why I couldn't do it before but all im waiting on now is parts so im almost done, finally.

its a kobalt impact gun and a 155 psi craftsman air compressor running full psi. its turning fine but even with two pretty strong guys pushing on the plates it wont keep the inner basket still enough.

k thank you that's what I thought just wanted to double check before I bought everything. still having problems getting the clutch basket nut off though I cant get it to budge might have to take it into the shop to get them to take it off

I meant would I still have to buy the long pushrod and the ball? or does it replace that to?

what else would I need to buy besides that though?

COULD YOU GUYS POINT ME IN THE direction of someone to talk to about it?

so you wouldn't recommend my cousin doing it even if hes really good at it? and also how much would someone charge for doing it? and truing is required?

I have my engine apart for clutch reasons and thought maybe ill get my crank welded. first off should I even need it? I have Toomey t5s and k and n with no lid at the moment but plan on doing more, nothing crazy just like reeds, cool head and possibly some porting. next question is it something any good welder can do or is it something that needs to be done by somebody who welds cranks often, reason for asking is my cousin has gone to school for welding and does it professionally and he can do it for free. next question would it need to be trued or can it be welded and thrown back in? and last what kind of welding should be done, tig?

also is that a decent price and if not where should I buy.