KaN Powersports

BTW if you hear a new 'faint' rattle you didn't have before it is into Detonation (DET). And you need to back your new timing setting off a hair

That's because the factory timing is 'fixed' You are going to use the case seam as your pointer on your new plate. Afford yourself some pipes and reeds too-that's where the biggest power mod for the dollar is when starting out on a modification path FMF, Toomey T-5, Pro circuit are all decent choices for a bone stocker....

^^^^They do work like the ones on a sled! Oh wait, it IS a Skidoo Valve. I'm a fan of Servals as well, but don't discredit a variable exhaust-good way to get the best of both worlds-so to speak.....

Wow! So trying to make sense of what you said, your intake boots are cracked? So you replaced them and now it acts even richer? Did I understand right? Do you have the hose between both carbs hooked up and tight (choke hose)?

^^^^^^ Well put, chances are your dealer has a kid in the back just as green as anybody working for peanuts, and learning a 'trade' on your dime. Save your money and do it yourself. If you need machining services and/or parts, hit up a site sponsor. If you can't fix it from here, you shouldn't be working on it all Everyone always says Clymer manual, but IMO they have a lot to be desired (although sufficient enough). Go to the tech info on this site and download the Service Manual-it's free. Either choice of manual is a must if you are learning all about this machine Good luck, and have a great time with it.

I figured he didn't have the means to. He is going to send it out to have it set up-who ever ends up building it can check all of this out for him.....

I just brought in some very old innovations to show how they set the stage for us today... Despite where you are the 2T still is a 2T, and people are constantly trying new, innovative ideas, However, the reason I posted some of the findings above, are because a lot of times people think that these releases are 'new'. When, in fact, they are old ideas-stuck to new applications. Example: The pic posted earlier of the cylinder looks just like a diesel engine's port layout. Poppet valve, and variable valve intakes have been in production and abandoned since the early 1900's. Two strokes main advantage is simplicity-So things come and go, but the proven innovations have been widely adopted.......

When you get it apart, look at where the pin is on the crank. A stocker is like about 1/8" in from the machined ring (about) And the 4 mils have the edge of the crank pin pretty much on the edge of that raised ring.. I can definitely set this up for you-let me know if I can help ....

^^^^^ Jet it better

Tired/chipped reeds will make a 'hard starter' too.... Something to consider as well.

A lot of variables could come from your story. It could have seized. (in the '70's they did this style of seize on purpose to 'force' a tight fitting piston on race engines. They'd seize it, and then change out the rings, and run it for a race or two-then do it all over again). You could have a low float setting and starved it for fuel. Of course-jetting. It's minuit, but when you add more oil, you displace that much fuel (jet flows at the same rate), which=more lean air/fuel ratio. Pull your pipes and look at the side of the skirt for signs of galling-and go over your tune (float height, etc.)...

You could go the 'old school' long rod/blaster piston route and feel some gains, but like stated above, without knowing/or checking on porting, you are just "rolling the dice" Might have a favorible outcome, might be doing it again right after getting it running....

Got E-brake wire still?

Your Yamaha shop is ensuring your lid isn't 'choking' and they are having you start out rich. This is sound advice (plugs are cheaper than pistons). Go buy from 330's down to 280's or so, start rich and keep the rest. Take your lid off and get the jetting where you are satisfied, put the id on and note the difference. Then you'll know what to do with/about the lid or airbox....

As long as the bike wasn't moved, among a myriad of other variables. I can make 8 more horsepower on my dyno by loosening the tie downs a bit. V4's are for real, but I think too much stock is put into Dyno readings. I have used a set of reeds from a sled in a stocker that are 'caged' like the v4's and have Boyeson petals modified and installed in them-worked out real well for that 'stocker'. Made 5hp difference, but again too much stock put into readings-they were better though. I didn't get as detailed as the posts above, but 'flutter' is exactly what I was taking away for the mods with this stock cylinder I set-up

Not for you Finch For the guy asking..... May be new here, but I have built an engine or two before yesterday haha...

I have the motion pro Mercury set. I do a lot of bulletbikes, and road bike too. I love it, have had it about 10 years now. Problem is, I cannot find more mercury for it easily. And from what I understand is Motion Pro does not even produce this anymore-now, you get a blue synthetic fluid in place of the mercury-don't know if it works as good, or not....

Never drive wristpin out! The loading/blows can crack lower needle cages, and the rollers mar the big end of the rod. Pin puller-one of these times you won't 'get away' with driving the pin out And don't stick items in the rod's little end to hold them-similar stresses to the lower cages, not to mention marring the little end. An impact wrench is just fine on the retaining nut on the bench. But in the case it's best to hold the flywheel so the 'blows' of the impact don't get transferred through to the bearings-(same effect as 'knocking the wrist pin out) Again, don't hold it by the rods for this either I have a ton of gears, and can build up/weld your crank, no problem.

Still rideable, but easy to 'drag' it out of the pipe. Like stated above you'll have to keep R's up and you'll find yourself feathering or double clutching a lot more.

Make sure to get your new crank trued, and if you are doing much at all (modding), get it welded up too I have unboxed new cranks before and seen as much as .009 out on run-out.

Sprinklerman is correct about the part-throttle plug chop. If you need to get downright accurate to what part of the needle, You can check slide height, mark throttle lever or run the stop screw in to hold that point. Make sure to NOT let off from where you are testing 'till the engine is stopped.. A few times through this and you'll be doing it by feel without all of the hassle I just spelled out . I agree with above too. You are into DET! Set the timing at zero 'till you have the jetting where you are happy, then play with advance afterward....

Thanks for the welcome everybody! I need to take the time to compile some more pics-however, there is a fair amount of the wide range of our work on our facebook page in 'albums', and mobile uploads. Including pics with my wife-hahaha

First of all, We'd like to thank Tyler for a great site and forum structure. And for allowing us to be a part of this great community. Welcome to KaN Powersports! My name is Nate and my wife's is Kim. Our number is (801)686-4556 About us: I have been building modifying engines my whole life (first one at the age of 7). I have been involved with many different avenues of race circuits-Including Drag, Oval, Jet boats, MX, Grass Drags (sleds), and such, for the bulk of my life. A little over 10 years ago I started a business fabricating Bulletbike powered mini Sandrails, and building/repairing 4 wheelers & ATV's-and this is what set the stage for what we do today. I have always owned/loved the Banshee, and this is where our 'hearts' are! We've had/or have, and raced: drag bikes, play quads, Oval racers, and asphalt bikes. With all variations of performance levels. As the "Mini" market dwindled, we began focusing on modding and building engines for the powersports world. During all of this my wife and I saw the need for a quality/honesty based shop in our area. So we moved out of our 'backyard' shop and opened the facility we are in today. We sponsor two motocross racers (both finished in the top two places of their class this year). Until about a year ago I have neglected the importance of 'social networking' and advertising. We have relied on 'word of mouth' which has worked very well for us. Today, we send engines all over the world as a result. Banshee HQ is THE place that it is 'real' and we are very excited to be a part of this forum.... We are open Mon-Fri from 8-7 MST and Sat from 10-7 MST... Complete engine building services we offer: We are a complete machine/repair shop specializing in two strokes, as well as four strokes. But our heart and specialties are with the Banshee! We build and true cranks including making custom strokers, Bore/hone & Sleeve cylinders, Trench cases, All levels of porting, Cylinder head work, Lathe work, Mill work, Aluminum welding, offer Quality Replating services. We perform all levels of modifications, supported by our in-house chassis dyno! Give us a call for complete details. Parts available though us: We have many, many accounts and can get just about anything OEM, or aftermarket that is produced! We are dealers for (but not limited to..) All OEM, Moto Tassanari, Toomey, FMF, Crank Works, La Sleeve, Advanced Sleeve, CP Industries, Direct Drive, Red Line oils, Amsoil, WPS, Tucker Rocky, Marshalls Distributing, Automatic Distributors, Carrillo, EMPI, Rocky MTN ATV and much much more. Website: kanpowersports.com (under modification) FB K a N Powersports E-mail: [email protected] (801)686-4556 KaN Powersports LLC 2108 S 1100 W STE 1&2 West Haven, UT 84401

I spot read this whole thing.... 1-K&T Sold all of those guys the overseas his builds and they paid him to go over there and teach them how to maintain/tune his builds. (His son is there building turbo'ed razors as we speak!!) 2-trap door floors is old!! Suzuki did this in the '70's and the lt250r got produced with them again all through the '80's. Trying to get a wider power range from a piston ported design (Due to poor reed materials available at the time)-Thank the Japanese "Naito and Namura" for that research-as well as almost anything else in 2T Tech. 3-Stepped exhaust ports were invented by a builder in the mid-80's in the USA for smaller cc 4-stroke bike engines, and was sold to an Australian, only after this builder/racer had 10 years of records under his belt. (Common knowledge) 4-Comparing an Engineering team with a performance modder (No matter the engine/vehicle) is just simply a asinine. 5-Yamaha owned the first rotary disced intake motor (An English design), and sold the patents to McCulloch, Who then sold it to Rotax. Yamaha found it to be too bulky, and problematic with multi-cylinder engines, and that the benefits could be compensated for elsewhere... 6-When it comes to Modifying this almost 200 year old technology, Americans have made the biggest numbers, and records that they have been involved with. To the trenching question- 1- The piston/bore are part of the flask. So you are dealing with more than just the area difference of the trench. There are accepatble ratios of CCCR vs. Transfer area Vs CR. Without measuring and checking, you are playing 'roulette'. Will it run? Probably Is it right or ideal? Probably not. 2-Any tuner knows that math gets you close, and it's up to skill and ability to get it right (Even in new developement).

Ohm the stator to ground as well. I have seen the coils pass the ohm test, but also have continuity to ground (shouldn't)... Make sure it is unplugged to do this, cause if you have a faulty switch somewhere, it could trick you into thinking you need a new stator.