KaN Powersports

^^^^^^X2.....

Poly bushings run quieter, don't damage frame and components as easily, and save on corrosion issues...

You're right Then there's the LTR 450 haha -Just saying......

Sounds like you're on the right track Break-in on the 2's with all of the needle/roller bearings involved is not as crucial as, say, a car engine with all babbit bearings. The rings in the bore are basically the only 'sliding' friction component-seat 'em good, and you're golden

Need better pictures, so we can give better advice

Wider + Longer = Turning slower-for what it is worth . Almost a must with your new found power, but with tight trails in mind, you'll have some trade-offs to consider...

I know I wrote a small book above-haha But, I agree, the tune and set-up is by far more important! Glazed cylinder/rings won't matter, or stand a chance with an air leak or lean carb...

Seating/running in a new ring has do to with material (ring and cylinder). Nikasil doesn't need much 'massaging' the ring home. Surface finish is key to a better ring life, and key to the type of "run in" used. With a rough (300-ish grit) crosshatch, you would want to vary RPM's, and avoid a hard load (driving side pressures up on skirts) for a few heat cycles to develop a good plateau to the peaks of the crosshatches-this will ensure a glaze free break-in, and the 'peaky' crosshatch can act as cutters on the piston skirt until they are plateaued. Ask for a plateau hone after initial crosshatching, and/or a finish with 400-600 grit, it needs less care and can be run as intended with less risk on today's high quality oils. Oils-run what you run-the switching oil, or ratio thing has no logical value-in fact adding oil to the mix makes the air/fuel more lean through the same jet. Other than that, run it like you stole it

I build stroked cranks all of the time-more for engines other than the Banshee that the aftermarket world doesn't heavily support....

^^^Nice!!

115 rod adds leverage to the stock stroke, and runs real good for the level of mod that it is. You need to either compliment it with a Blaster piston (your head needs a bit of work for this), Or there is a Wiseco piston that compliments this long rod-ready to go. Getting the crank trued is VERY important on the 'shee engine. It turns very high RPM's and even a bit of run-out turns it into a "bearing eating", power robbing, quick wearing parasite!! The book specifies how much run-out is acceptable (key word ACCEPTABLE) Nothing leaves my shop more than .0015-and 90% are less than .0005. And any other builder here, on HQ, is probably just as meticulate. Even a newly purchased crank should be checked out (I have unboxed some scary stuff in the past-haha)

A lot of valid points above. 1-Just boring to the biggest size is NOT how to get power out of one of these, the port timing gets screwed up. And the cylinder is good for one use-next time you have to replace them. 2-Pipes ARE the very first mod you should do-more power gains from a set of pipes than any other single mod out there. 3-you really should have a plan from start to finish; A-What type of riding? B-What is your budget? C-How long do you want it to last? Some mods take your power the wrong direction unless other things are done along with them. Basically to go to "Level 2" so-to-speak. You should refresh the top end, choose a brand of pipe (bigger isn't better) Get a port job to compliment those, and choose a dome in an aftermarket head to compliment everything just done. Timing plates make a difference too. Then you'll be set to play all day long!!

The little ones and very large ones are for a head that has a removable top shell, then the little ones do go on all of the studs, and the very big one is for the perimeter of the shell. As for the 3, a lot of heads have one in the water inlet fitting ( back side of the head) if the fitting bolts to the head. If the shell is removable, there are usually ones on the underside of the shell at the domes as well.... Hope this gave some insight

Wiseco's are now purchased from inland China, and (I'm not sure) I suspect they hail from the same place as the Wang Crank-Black webs, Funny rods, and substandard bearings-junk in a box. Wisecos used to be Hot Rods a while ago-not any more... I build all of my cranks (including my strokers) I'm in control of quality and assembly pride that way....

That's exactly what happens inside there; Because of the helical gears you get side walking. 1-The TZ allows more side movement (for obvious reasons) 2-When you take the stock bearing off and add the TZ you do away with the crank's only locating clip. To do it right you need to machine a clip groove elsewhere in the case and move the locating clip. I have done my own before with the 'pinned' polaris NTN bearings and dowell pin holes drilled into the case as an alternative to the c-clip. Either way, you HAVE to re-secure the endplay of the crank somehow. And the straight-cut gear minimizes this side loading. However, you still need the locating clip.

I don't doubt one bit you were into DET also, but the seizing is a result of the "crank-walk" IMO... That crank was a bad ordeal from the get-go and you didn't stand a chance with it... 7 degrees out of phase, loose bearings, TZ with no locating clip on another bearing elsewhere, and I'll bet it's runout is off the charts too...

OK, I just watched the video clip-TZ's are the roller styled bearing, and MAXLOAD are the ones with more balls in them. Is it a TZ? Plus the rest of the play is no good.... If it is a TZ, it could very easily be the culprit for the slop everywhere too... "Edit" Watched the vid a second time, it's obvious it is a TZ-haha. Is your new crank coming with regular bearings?

There it is!! If you are running the stock primary/clutch combo, then the crank got walked by the helical gears!! To run a TZ correctly you need a C-clipped bearing, and straight cut gears.... Do you have straight cut gears? or the stock primary?

Show us the crown. What's the wall clearance? I'm still blaming untrue crank with all current info... including bearing wear. Pics of wrist pins too...

Earlier FZR 1000.......

Thanks JLO.... Just didn't know if there was something (chain) lurking around out there I didn't know about. I agree with the posts above about Dyno numbers.... They are a tuning tool not a race performance predictor. We have a dyno in the shop here, and I hold local Dyno shoot-outs with it too. Amazes me the credibility people put into these things 200 HP put to the ground incorrectly can be totally shamed by 50 HP set-up right, in a race!!!! JLO not only makes power, but puts it down too

Drill and tap hub and use a puller with three bolts. (Don't drill into stator!!!) This is how they all used to be done anyway-sleds still...

I've got an honest, no bullshit question... How do you keep a timing chain in that thing? Is there a brand I don't know about? The 2 MX bikes I sponsor/build go through one (chain) a season (12 races roughly and the practices) That is one of the reasons for my 'reliability' stab earlier..... The other is piston life, the YFZ below goes through a piston a season and the Suzuki one every 2 seasons. (The piston life is acceptable considering the duty cycle) I've tried several after markets, and have resorted to OEM.. One bike is a SUZ450 and the other YFZ450 quad. SUZ is stock except for my porting and a custom ground cam (not very aggressive lift) The YFZ is my porting, 3 mil and CP piston, and web intake cam. Dynos a broad torqued 69 HP for the YFZ. They both kick ass on the track and the SUZ was 1st last season and the YFZ was 2nd-both 2nd year racers.....

BTW your clutch IS a slipper,and you control it with your hand....... Also imagine MX all of the unloading and loading with the jumps, turns, and power blipping- I'm confident your already covered

I would imagine a Hinson basket and Direct Drive pressure plate will satisfy your worries. Short of that, all I can think of is an axle embossed to the drive hub in rubber (much like a long driveline on a '70's passenger car or van) But, good luck with that one ...... Road bikes have the hubs set up like that more for safety (Tires breaking loose), not driveline shock, and the first mod for a track bike is to take the rubber inserts out of the rim and replace them with aluminum, or Kevlar pucks. My 2 cents is you are focusing on something that doesn't need to be (my opinion). I'd run the hell out of it and if there is a problem, IT's a Banshee. Would be easy enough to replace what broke, and start down the engineering road. In the meantime, Check out King of Da Street on facebook-you'll see all of the asphalt related abuse on a trans to compare against. Those big slicks getting full throttle dumped onto it is about the most harsh form of torque load imaginable-waay more than a hot down shift play riding. You'll loose traction and spin before stressing components too badly-it's not a 7000 pound pick-up....Ride like hell and have a blast doing it ....