KaN Powersports

Call me tomorrow (801) 686-4556 Nate. I'm tired but have a few more questions....

I heard that WindyCity, just wanted to know if any one has 'actually' run them yet. I'm curious-despite my opinion, I'd like to know if my assumption was right, or not. I agree with Cam on the pressurized float bowl issue. A baffle in the bowl is nothing new, many carbs (Minus FCR, and CVK) have one. But I don't see how the bowl can dissipate the pressures for a lower one at the rate a rider is on/off the throttle. So I guess I'll keep following and wait 'till someone says "I bought these last week and you should too FTW", or "Damn it!! I just totally wasted $700+".......

Check you crank phasing too. Make sure both cyls are 180 +/- no more than 2-3 degrees. Do you have an infrared thermometer? Check both pipes close to the flange and see if one cylinder is way hotter than the other. FYI those 'funny' domes are that way because the builder either couldn't turn a radius on his lathe, or they complimented a custom cylinder set up- bathtub domes support a different port lay out (sled engines-for example). If your squish band width ratio is in fact too big (I kind of doubt it is) You can try retarding the timing a bit more so the piston has time to let the trapped fuel loose and provide the time for flamefront to 'get to it'. It'll be at the expense of power, but you'll know if it is the domes (squish/bore ratio) fault... I like the checking for collapsed baffle or plugged pipe suggestion above. I've had my butt kicked in a carb before when all along it was a carboned up chamber.

Yes, use a spare battery to power the light, and hook it to either plug wire. Set your cylinder to TDC (A homemade piston stop can easily be fabricated out of an old plug-break all of the center out, and fit a bolt/nut through the center {I grind the head into a smooth button}-handy cheap item to have in your tool box) . Make a reference mark, or pointer, and go from there.... You can use this to check the phasing of the crank accurately/quickly too, as well as many other often overlooked things-a degree wheel and piston stop should be sitting right next to your leak down kit in you toolbox-haha

I highly doubt it's the cooling system's fault, based on everything else you have said. Bigger carb would help-but you should still be able to get the 28's to run. I've seen these domes cause problems with the squish band being too wide, but that would be odd with your 24cc and .050 squish... Have you tried it with the timing at 0 yet?

^^^Bwaahaahaa

Fair enough Jesse-kind of wondering, that's all. I know it's got to be better-just wondering if anyone knew the difference it made for them ....

^^^ Was going to be my next question..... It sounds like it's lean to me-but if richer isn't helping make me wonder if it is running under a slight DET condition, driving piston crown heat up... I read earlier it passes leakdown, right? -so no air leaks?

Anyone notice a substantial decrease in temps? If you have one of the inline gauges-let us know the difference-Just wondering....

Pushing a year, and no one has personally tried these out yet? I realize they barely made the cast one available, but no 'hands on' review? Anyone??

It's been a few days and I was walking by the dead horse, so I thought I'd give it kick-hahaha

What CDI do you have? And what is your timing set at?

I realized you said you had it figured out, but for the others as well (I see this question a lot); 1-your best bet is to analyze everything before just tearing it down. Buy a degree wheel and check a few things with it (related to the crank). Set it to TDC for one cyl, then compare against the other. (using the piston stop method) you can easily check the phasing of the crank (making sure they are 180 deg. from each other). Endless resources out there on this procedure-I'll leave it up to you to research out how to set-up/use one.. 2-Measure your stroke (many different methods used) but, for common sakes, the strokes are different enough that even if not super accurate measuring is used, you'll still know. With these two quick checks, you'll know the exact condition (timing/phasing) and stroke of your crank... 3-Proceed to remove the crank, and measure the rod the best you can (center to center) The stocker is 110 and the first common long rod is 115-again 5mm is a pretty big difference, so even if you are a bit inaccurate-you should still be able to tell. 4-All of the standard inspections to bearings/parts at this point Now, if you crank is laying on the bench (or your seeing a used one at a swap meet or something like that) You can eyeball a few things; 1-Look at the big end pin on the side of the web- A stocker will have this pin ABOUT an 1/8 of an inch in from the machined ring that's on the side of the web, A 4mm stroker will have the pin just touching this machined ring. This is crude, but you can quickly determine if it is, in fact, stroked. The most common crank variations between stock and the 4mil are as follows; Of course stock "Long rod" Stock stroke but with a 115mm rod "4mil" 4mm stoke but with a 110 (stock) rod "4mil long rod" The most common "4mil" .... 4mm stroke with a 115 (long rod)

^^Nice Banshee Chad Scary thing is, how much truth there is to that!! "And I'll do both cyinders for 150.00 too" -Bwaahaahaa

^^^^^ Nice ...More transfer area.

Thanks sprinklerman , was curious what the 'come back' (or his 'building/engineering' solution) was going to be-haha We went a long way from the topic. but I couldn't bite my tongue anymore on the above posts and the "We have better engineers" stabs-haha

Welding is a very good idea, however, I wouldn't bother welding a used crank at it's service (or close to..) limit. Get it overhauled, or replace it and then have it trued and welded. If you have it out, and it is close-might as well do it as preventative. Be a bummer to go this far, put it back, then have a failure a short time afterward.. Just clarifying for him starwriter-you gave good info .....

6mm x 1.0

The slides were originally black (coated). If your leaking out of the vent tubes (like mentioned above) you most likely have a bad needle and seat, or improper float height adjustment. The easiest way to check float height, or needle valve leak with the carb on is to fit a clear hose to the bottom fitting on the float bowl and route it up high next to the carb body. Then open the drain screw with the fuel turned on. Watch the fuel rise in the clear hose and compare it against the side of the carb. If it is much more than a few mm above the float bowl's mounting seam, but stops rising-it's more likely an adjustment. But if is continues to rise, you can assume it's a leaking needle and seat. Then the 'tear apart' can commence-with a better idea of what you are 'going after'..... Hope this helps

My labor is 130 a cylinder, and I always blend the sleeves to the existing port. Banshee cyl's are still plentiful, but it is getting harder to get 'virgin' cylinders that have good bore life left. So many people 'hack' on these jugs, just buying used ones that say 'ported' is risky business. (Its like buying used electronics-maybe it works, and maybe not) ....

Mighty wide of you to assume I'm just a parts changer. Enlighten us all, registered user. What would you do??? Let's have your take.

compression test...

That's what I said the other day. Good starting point IMO.....

I haven't got the 'pic' thing down yet. Here's a link to some https://db.tt/N7q1CQ9U There is an array of guillotines out there that fits this body....

It's his valve, but the exact same function. Different calbrations. Plenty of cylinders out there with the pain old Ski Doo valves-resprung in them:)...