02Bansheeee

No they're dirt trails with creek beds that are maintained? Which means if it's something that's gonna do harm to our bikes, We move it and carry on.

Actually, the trails I ride on don't have shit sticking up everywhere so my 18s do fine. Thanks.

What's the best psi to run for mxr6 18-10-8 for good traction in woods?

I just saw that the bottom of the right cinder has a chip on the bottom of the sleeve.bis this going to cause problems?

Yes I run a k&n without the lid, the dirt you see is from me touching the stuff outside of the bike and then me touching the components inside.. The cylinders didn't have dirt in them.

this is the left side.. Nothing has been cleaned yet.

( This is the RIGHT side ) it does need a hone, but could the engine be suffering from piston slap based on the way the lines are on the wall and piston? It's only on the parts of the wall where the piston could possibly touch it.

I'm sure he just wants the bike to run on trails.

We just do trail riding. He just suggested that I do a port job. & I examined my pistons more today under more lighting and saw a tad of scoring. & a tad on one of the cylinders. How do I measure the ring gap and piston gap?

Thanks for your help.

Yep, stock style. & alright. That's up to my brother, how much does porting usually run for eh... Say a mx port? Or a trail port?

Alright, that'll be my new wheel chock when I order the crossover tube. & with the cylinder walls other than scoring, which there doesn't look or feel to be, what should I do about it? Hone it?

Yeah... Lucky number I guess. & yeah I'm sure, his held 6lbs for 6 minutes last time I checked, which was around April or so. We hadn't really rode them so wasn't much of a need to test it since then. & thanks. Did you tell me those as being the fat ones to start with. Or that should be the sweet spot, either way I'm starting with 300.

On the water pump, what do I need to check for? The plastic gear? What about the impeller, do I take it out to check it?

98 Shee 66.5 pistons and rings Oem crank Vito's big bore gasket kit FMF sst I think boyseen reeds Stock carbs Ngk br8es Airbox w/O lid with k&n filter 32:1 yamalube Stock intakes with white brothers boost bottle Stock waterpump & bolt number 13 was broken off in case Oem stator and radiator 660 elevation Average temps: 70-95°f That's all I can think of.

Yeah, I checked the jetting. But the guy who had it before my brother must've bought off brand jets, cause I don't see shit on them. No numbers that I could see. I'll check again with a magnifying glass. & I always do a leak- down.

& when it was assembled, we followed every step in the clymers manual. Except for the plug part.

Thanks for your replys, just got back from vacation. I checked the compression, it was 100 in both cylinders. Pulled the head and there was oil all around the underside and some on the top side of the head gasket. Pistons rings looked like new and piston wall was smooth as well. Installing the plug after I type this. But With that being said, what's with the oil under the head gasket? Could that be part of the overheating and low compression problem?

It ran fine until the day of our family big ride***** typo above

My brother and I fully rebuilt his 99 Shee. But while switching cylinders I noticed that after it had been broke in, the rubber plug on the bottom of the cylinder wasn't installed into the new cylinder on the bike. We are gonna take that cylinder back off to put it back in but that might have something to do with my problem... It was originally a stock 64 and he found some 66.5 cylinders and pistons. We Installed those and it ran until the day after a big family ride for about 4 hours. It started normal and ran normal until it got warmed up.. Too warm. I noticed that the clutch cover was too hot to touch and then bogged out and wouldn't start until the whole bike was cool. The pipes are a greenish-blueish color at the header and the plugs are black and dry. I think it's overheating. Could it be because we upped the pistons so big without rejetting or porting? Or water pump? Any helpful replies are appreciated. & it know that we should have double checked before making a stupid mistake such as the rubber boot, don't need to know that.

- Airbox w/o lid and a k&n**

I have a 99 Shee my brother and I built, a little while after the build, like 3 hours or so we noticed that oil was coming from studs 6,9, and 10 on the head. It's very slowly coming out while it's running and doesn't make a power difference. It also recently started over heating and bogging out after like a 30 minute ride and clutch cover was too hot to touch with hand. I'm taking the water pump off tomorrow to inspect it but the oil really had me wondering, could anyone explain? All the studs were properly torqued. 99 banshee - stock head - 66.5 pistons with Vito's big bore head gasket - stock crank - airbox - 32:1 - fresh rebuild, top and bottom. - no porting that I know of..... - boyseen reeds. - stock carbs - running a bit rich. ( plugs are black and dry ) - elevation : 630ft. - location temps now: 70-90f

Are all vforce reed petals the same? My brothers vforce 2 reeds broke and I can't seem to find any vforce 2 reeds, will vforce 3 or 4 reeds work in a vforce 2 cage???

So I need to get my plugs so they are brown right? Or tan?

Yeah I'd like to hear how I can do that. & It also has pro design intakes, with a boost bottle. & I just ordered my new intake gaskets cause it was leaking behind the reeds.