D.N.K

yes it is the same, and better quality

I tried the 150's and it ran much much better, but not perfect. It still sputtered WOT. Tried the 148 and it now runs awesome. I'm planning on getting the bike up to temp, put new plugs in, then run it WOT in 6th and shut it off to see if what the plug looks like. I'm going to be pretty disappointed if they are not brown.

smaller pilot

I used a hack saw and then cut what the hack saw left with a hot razor blade, worked great

i ran a bottle at 40:1 just to try it. did not like that i could not tell if my gas was mixed, and it was also expensive, so I just switched back to 2r at 32:1

a few things kind of turn me away, but it is a good price. If it has a title I'd do it

im running stock air box with lid, no snorkel, and a uni air filter. When I find the time I will lean out the main jet to see what happens and post back with results.

but would cause the misfire up top? lean or rich? im thinking rich cause the plug was pretty dark.

ok so i went with 158 main 45 pilot and JJH needle on middle clip. when wot it don't bog, but it doesn't sound smooth. it hesitates kinda and also sometime when taking off from a stop while on a hill it bogs down if i don't give it a lot of throttle. Any suggestions? also i used 1/4 inch fuel line and it is still too big (leaking), what did you guys use?

never heard of that before! try a new head gasket? and make sure to torque all bolts properly.

This is a pretty cool alternative from buying the dual feed pet cock. I was wondering though, at what point does a motor need to be dual fed??After bolt on mods? thanks

I ran the hose from the top of the rad to the right side pipe. I over heated it one night (30 degrees C and tight woods) and I would have never known if it had not been for the smoke from the coolant hitting the pipe. The reason why I got rid of mine was on hills the coolant would leak out of the bottle, but having a indication the bike is getting to hot is good too.

The filter side of this carb is bigger. I have no clue how I'm going to fit the air box boot on. And I'm looking at doing this a lot because of tuning.

after reading this I'm starting to think engine ice is a rip off. I have it in both my bikes and never had a problem, never had a problem before i switched either.

So I was just in the shed working on my bike, and I noticed my pwk 28mm carb is the same size on the filter side as the boot. This cant be right? please help!

Get a sawzall and cut it, or just a hack saw.

I just bought the OEM one. Part # 93210-16314-00

So I don't "need" it?

So I installed a new water pump cover (Charroit) because i wanted something with a drain bolt. All is well except now the plastic cover that attaches to the case will not clear the new cover. i removed the rubber piece on the inside of this cover and now it goes on fine. My question is, will this be ok? Was that a necessary heat shield? I looked up the part number to figure out what it could be and it said damper? Any one that ran into this problem please help out. Thanks.

Just did a search and looks like his after pissing also of people off. I'm after buying some parts off him, and the name "rattle can ray" fits but some stuff was "ok". I think I might avoid him from now on though to avoid getting ripped off. Ill keep an eye to the sale forum here to see what I can find. Thanks guys

I was looking around ebay and I found this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toomey-Racing-Yamaha-Banshee-T5SC-Exhaust-Chrome-Set-/290814741615?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b5e8cc6f&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_1447wt_1300 Is this worth the price? I notice his feedback is not great, and none are listed as sold. Also noticed that minkia38 got a few sets up for sale. The prices are high. Anyone buy a used exhaust off him? I was going to put a bid in, but it just seems for a little more money I get a brand new set. So to sum it up, is that ( $647.95 + $58.90 shipping) a fair price to pay for a toomey t5 exhaust?

Im debating this myself. Right now I have a set of "cut" pro circuits, and i want a change. I want chrome pipes and I'v narrowed it down to these two pipes. I ride trails and woods, and from what I read, this is not what cpi's are best suited for. They are more of a drag, open dunes pipe. I'm leaning towards t5 because they seem more particle and work good with stock or ported motor. Im stock port right now, but that could some time change.

does yours have the nut that im talking about? or are you running the shorty? or the even more expensive one with the dial adjuster?

The bar is not long enough to move the switch to the other side of the lever. The bar slopes down before this point. I think my just going to have to take the nut off, cut the allen, and maybe put a smaller nut on the opposite side of the lever. Sort of what "5150banshee" suggested. Also I may look into getting longer bars, although I'm not sure what bars to get. Thanks for all the replys

The brake level is pointing up. Its like the bars are not long enough. Anyone have this problem? Also the clutch lever has a nut that hits off the kill switch, not allowing it to be pulled in all the way . Anyone got any suggestions? Has anyone else have this issue? thanks