Young Guns Racing

I got one as well.

Looking for a nice set of v-force reeds. Id like them to be the 3 series or 4 series. I can get a NEW set of v-force 4's for about $193 shipped. I just dont have that in the budget just yet. Please let me know if you have something, Id love to be able to get this kinda upgrade. Please PM me or text me @ 540-903-461eight. Thanks!

Another good remark. Sold me a kick start lever at an unbeatable price in way better shape than what I expected. Thanks again!!

Text sent on reeds

Pm sent on reeds

Have you double checked your reed valves yet? They will be a defenite to look at if you havnt already. I also second the carb issue, I dealt with this once, reeds were shot, I replaced them all. Still had a little miss to it, I rebuilt my original carbs, still no help. Bought a nice used set, cleaned em up, threw the rebuild kits in them, no more problems. Hope you get it solved.

Yep x3, also reffered to as a voltage regulator. Its main job is converting ac current into do and therefor regulating it depending on the current charge of a battery source. Most voltage regulators (at least here in the lawn and garden industry) need 12v current going to them to function.

Bought one! That was fast lol thanks so much. I will leave the seller feedback.

Im interested in perhaps building a backup/replacement engine overtime and so Im getting some feels for a matching case? Preferably no whack. If the price is right I might have to jump on it but for now I am just trying to gauge what this is going to cost me. Anyhow please PM or text me @ 540-903-461eight

lol thanks guys, thought so just wanted to be sure. Im going to run at +4 timing with a stock stroke trued and welded crank, wiseco pistons on 66mm top end dune/play ported with stock carbs jetted accordingly filtered by K&N pods and a cool head with 22cc domes all flowing out of toomey t5's.

Hey all, Im still new to alot of things on the banshee, however im very mechanically inclined and open minded so to be sure I have what may be a simple or stupid question. I have a nice OEM stator on an adjustable timing plate, came with a bike I bought. Question is where do i line the timing marks up? The way it was bolted on it appears the markings (on the right of the plate) line up with the case itself where it splits. Would this be correct? or am I way off? If I am wrong some pics of the correct way would help. Thanks for reading!

PM sent on kick start setup, boost bottle & clutch springs.

I am looking for an affordable kick start lever for my banshee, any color will do and if it rattles a bit thats fine with me too. I have no idea where mine went. Please PM me or text me @ 540-903-461eight

Still got the exhaust clamps?

Shoot me some reasonable offers if you have any laying around. I'll even take a single RH cylinder that is bored 65.50mm or could be bored to that there of. Thanks! PM or text me @ FIVE 4 ZERO - 9 ZERO 3 - FOUR 6 ONE 8.

Thats my fault then apparantly I was thinking about another bike. Possibly my buddies.raptor 660. Anyhow I know I go one size up which would make the pilots 27.5s, instead of stock 25 pilots. Thanks for clearing up the misinformation

Absolutely but not too likely. Lean tuning would cause a bog from idle but under gradual throttle will usually rev out and take a bit to idle back down. A brand new banshee harness from yamaha is only like $150. Others are available online but be aware of junker sales man. Of u have a wiring issue and everythings all chop cut rebuild, id start with a new harness. It'll do you good in the long run. Download a service/repair manual. It should have a section that will give you some general trouble shooting.

Thanks I will defenitly keep this information in mind. You guys always come through and im trying to contribute more info when I can

Check all ur basics first. Make sure gas is flowing into ur carbs. Check spark and check compression. If all is well and u want to see of ur carbs are flowing a little shot of carb cleaner or squirt of gas either in a plug hole or through the throat of the carbs and an attempt to start will let u know if you should look into ur carbs again. Let us know ur results.

Pickup module could still be bad (small square black module just outside the flywheel tied im your stator). After testing all components as best u can, its time to geta service manual and check wiring for continuity to make sure there are no breaks or shorts. Heres some advice. Take ur multi meter and find the "signal wire" from ur pickup module, have someone kick the bike, and see if u get a volts signal - to be honest I dont remember if u are checking ac or dc volts, if I had to guess id say dc- no signal is evident, replace ur stator - if u HAVE a signal keep tracing. In example pickup from the pigtail, then from the pickup to the cdi, then cdi to the coil, if ur coil is getting the ignition signal and is properly grounded it is most likely bad. Ohms tests are great but not flawess. Good luck. I hope this helps

I didnt go leaner bud. I went to 25s over the stock 22.5s. You must have misread. The stock pilots just dont do it for me in most cases. I even had a set of 30s laying around but did not need them.

Lol good enough. All I needed to know. Now not to jack this thread but what "real" builders would yall recommend?

My setup is jetted with 320 mains and 25 pilots with needles raised one clip and it runs awesome for me. As stated before not knowing what domes you have is going to affect things a bit but all can be figured out later. Jetting is not bad at all, I personally recommend starting off with the 25 pilots as they have always been beneficial to me over the lean 22.5's. Rocky mountain atv sells jets for like $3 each, Id buy mains in 260, 280, 300, 310 and 320 all totaling you for about $40 shipped, cheaper than most jetting kits with many more options. For myself before the port work I was running 280's I believe, they may have been 300's but anyhow start off with a larger jet and start playing around, you will know the feel of your bike better than anyone else. It is a timely process but well worth it when she is screaming like shes supposed to.

x2 on the air leak. After checking your reeds and intakes for leaks I'd start fishing. One tried and true old school method is to get a can of carb cleaner and start spraying around what are supposed to be sealed surfaces. If you find a leak you will know it immediately the engine will respond. If this stumps start doing some research on a crankcase vacuum test. It will indefenitly FIND your leak for you.

I run the k&n pods currently on a ported stock top end, toomey t5's and jetted up correctly it runs great here in va at about 1600ft elevation. Correct jetting really makes a huge difference and guys all around this place are here to help.