outlander1000

I avoid idling as much as possible other than a few minutes to get enough heat to ride it. On and off the throttle for maybe 30 minutes and let it rip. I've seen a guy trash a rebuilt dozer just letting it idle. When we rebuild farm tractors we run them just enough to tune them and hook em up to a big load and run them as hard as we can. Put a different head on a single cylinder 4 stroke bike over the weekend and it looked excellent on a motor that gets ran extremely hard, full throttle for miles at a time. Proper jetting is going to make a bigger difference than any break in procedure or type of oil you run.

FUK I just got one last week.

They'll do 100+ only if you are running from the cops.

Thats about 6 years of hard riding on 80 over prolites with benol/super techniplate. Crank bearings are shot (no whack) and outer seal was loose. Crank bearing had been getting louder and louder. Still made 170psi, about 5 psi loss since I rebuilt it. Piston is a bit cleaner than it looks. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Waiting on new stator and some misc parts. Not using many old parts. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Porting is just making things pointy right? Why would anyone pay someone else to do that?

I've read all that about them. Hope the bottom end power is true about them. I think they'll run fine unless they have a serious flaw like the bowl being too shallow or something but they run too good for a lot to not run right. Same thing was said about the 3 jet 40mm Keihins on my ski that they don't run right but they run perfect on mine.

I'm going to be putting my Serval together soon and want to make sure I have the jetting close when I'm ready. I have: PC pipes VF4 reeds Billet intakes 24cc domes NOSS head 6 inch PODS, no box +4 timing 421 4mm long rod Serval with clean-up porting 1000ft elevation Will be running 93 pump gas 60-80F temps Carbs have CEG needles, 78 pilot (wtf?) and 152 mains. I think I should be running about a 50 main (probably go 48), and 155 to start. Suggestions on starting point?

Looking to run some stock clutch springs on my 421 serval since I will be running a slingshot lock up clutch. I can get HD springs for 15 shipped but do not want heavy duty.

850?

Interested in selling the axle, carrier, sprocket/disc carrier or hubs altogether?

I emailed both FAST and NOSS... I never have time to call anywhere at work or forgot I'm so busy. I'm building the motor myself. The stock airbox boots are not large enough for the 33mm carbs are they?

Would love to do a single carb setup but I think I would be disappointed if it is anything like a 2-1 exhaust.

The 33mm it is. What are my filter/box options? I have the K/N with adapter plate now in a box and would like to still run a box but no pods. I like the idea of the aluminum airbox but not sure what boots it would use to the box? Still need to get some domes for this motor. Got almost all the other parts.

I have not decided on what size carbs I want to get for my new build. I plan to do 90% trail riding so I was thinking maybe 33mm? Also I need to get a set of pump gas domes... emailed a few sponsors but never heard back from them. Anywhere have them that I can just buy online without emailing or calling?

Got the slingshot, billet basket, pancake bearing and just waiting on rest of parts. Need to get some new domes yet.

I've got good frictions and steels so I will run them. I'd like to run all stock springs with the slingshot lockup if it would hold the power well. I'm not sure if a pancake bearing is needed. I've always been aware of the ball welding and never has. The banshee will probably no longer be used for the rough trails since I have a high HP 4x4.

Thanks for the info. What about billet basket or aftermarket pressure plate?

I'm building a 4mm 421 serval and need to decide on a clutch setup. This will be mostly for trail riding so easy clutch pull and reliability are the biggest concerns. There are a lot of different lockups out there now from last time I was looking at them so I don't know what the best setup would be. I would not mind modifying my stock cover if needed. I don't want too heavy of springs because after 6 hours of trail riding with my current setup (all heavy springs) is just too much.

I've ran Klotz in the banshee and looked good after 5 years on Wisecos but it always had a proper warm up. Run walmart super tech in the ski's as they can go through quite a bit of gas. Never had a failure with them either and they somtimes stay full throttle for 5 miles at a time. Jetting and warm-up are probably more important than oil brand.

I ran 180 psi on 93 mixed with 110. On the jetskiis can get away with 93 at 185 psi.

Air box with modified lid and seat was on. No possibility of ingesting water. I dont think that had anything to do with it. Had been sitting for months. I think the float was sticking in the carb. Reeds and flywheel key were good and it had good spark. Had planned on selling it but decided to keep it and build. A lot of work to get it fixed right and not make any more money than I was asking. I have a lot more performance parts, etc than half the ones locally and a lot cheaper too and I didn't have much interest. I have a reliable 4x4 so this one is just a play bike.

Split the cases and did not see anything causing the gears to get held up. Shift forks look ok too. Crank bearings are shot, crank seals, clutch actuator is grooved, clutch actuator bearing is destroyed (rollers flattened), left cylinder has been leaning out (still had great compression). Other piston looked great and I rebuilt it in 2006 or 2007 and a few hundred hours later. Probably doing a 4mm 421 serval. Should make for a fast trail machine.

Looking for good stock cylinders or ported ones (woods type port). Not looking for any that only few a few bores left or any damage. Might be interested in a 4mil crank for the right price but will probably go with a new one. Same with extended a-arms. I have plenty of projects so I am in no hurry for parts.