-
Posts
768 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Pastrykiller
-
-
-
Tell your neighbors to eat a dick. There are noise ordinances that have time limits. Find that neighbor that has a problem and inform them of the times. If the don't like it, sit in your driveway and rev it like you stole it. I fucking hate people that hide behind a phone. I have 2 of these types on my street. One came to my house and tried to start some shit and he left with his pride broken and a few more lumps on his head.
-
Flip it over and use duct tape. Good as new. Might have to adjust the idle afterwards. Thats what trinity would say.
-
The choke tube being missing will cause it to rev and mimic a lean condition. I'm betting that its way out of sync and that he could have possibly bent the tab on the float during disassembly.
-
-
If your slides are in correctly, listen for a hiss in the carb. Each side independently. If they are out if sync, you will sometimes hear the hiss as if its sucking more air in one carb vice the other. You could also be higher on one that is causing the needed to be pulling fuel and that will make a hiss sound as well. I know it sounds weird but listen to the carbs.
-
My bad for trying to help a man out. Glw your search
-
Hit up hp2000
-
-
My thoughts exactly
Some people just have to learn the hard way. It would be easy if he tied a rope on each end of the crank and loop it over the head. Lift the upper half off without disturbing the crank.
I'm betting that he will end up gettin it back together and misaligning a shift fork. He won't know until he is missing a few gears after its back together.
-
Sometimes you can take a punch and hammer to knock it loose. Don't pound on it too much or you will bend the actuator arm inside the case.
I just went thru this and replaced the shitty stock one with a pancake.
-
How are your springs? Do they hold the head pipe on under rpm and load?
-
1200 @ 170 is probably too rich. Same goes for the needles.
-
Well I think you need to use the search function. Stock length rod is 110mm. Yamaha does not use the Same verbiage. They use y29 as the marking for the 110mm rod. The stroker question comes up alot in these forums and you should have no problem finding info about pin location. Not sure how else to explain it other than contact a builder and send them some money.
-
NO. Rod size has nothing to do with figuring out if its a 4mil or stock stroke.
Y29 is the stock rod on a stock crank. It should measure 110.
What you have is a possible stock length crank or a 4 mil short rod. Both use the 110 length rod.
You will need to look and measure the pin placement in the webs.
-
You answered your own question.
-
330-350m/ 30pilot/stock needle mid clip. Should get you somewhere close
Exactly what he said. 320 is also a good possibility.
-
Fresh powder always looks great. That thick of powder is gonna come with a few frustrations like shock eyes too tight, threads needed re tapped, carrier not wanting to fit and a few other but I'm sure you will figure it out.
-
Ok and my point still stands that shipping is more than a rebuild kit.
-
Shipping both ways will cost you more than buying a rebuild kit off the Internet. I think they average 9.00 new and that's shipped.
-
Yes sir.
-
Ask Kevin. He should know what is optimal for HIS build.
-
Stop paying high ass prices for extended brake lines. Look on eBay for lines from a polaris outlaw. Factory lines on them look just like galfner lines and measure 33 inches from top of T to master and the outer lines are 25.5 inches each. Only thing you will have to do is roll a few inches of line up to remove some slack. 17.00 shipped in average isn't a bad deal at all.
-
As wierd as it sounds, it appears that the done design mirrors a vagina with the plug being the cervix. We know where his head was during the design phase. I guess that's a good thing right?
Right cylinder cutting out
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Not on the 87 and 89 that I own. Both bowls look the same from the outside. Some setups have brass tubes in both bowls as well. what you need to look for is the little indent in front of the brass tube. one indent is open and the other bowl will have the same indent but its plugged by the casting. the indent that is open will be the left carb bowl and the plugged indent is the right side.
The choke works by pulling fuel into the brass tube via the open indent and transferring it to the right carb via the rubber choke tube that people forget to install.