hoppedupandcutdown

I asked if you had the hub off, bet you got 2 thrust plates (fat washers) behind it, instead of one

I tried help a guy just last night with the same problem. He was certain it was the thickness of 1 washer on the pancake bearing holding it out, and went back to the stock pusher/adjuster. I have a plate and hub in my hands and there ain't much room in there if there was a nut and trans shaft bolted in there. But have never had such a problem myself. Did you have the hub off? Is a thick washer behind the basket and 1 behind the hub?

I hate to sound like a broken record, but, are you just positive the splines are lined up and engaged on the plate and hub?

The very first post in this thread tells you it's most certainly a 99 motor.

580-824-3681 I got through on this number today. She said it's the only one for reservations, but I couldn't get a straight answer about the hours of operation. But that is the number for the main store at the LSPS campground (Sandcity)

loosen the pinch bolts and rotate the complete carrier. the axle is not centered so it will move back and forth.

No problem, end the rod could use some grease anyway.

Rmstator website says direct replacement of OEM,and the kits even come with a 27mmx1.0 puller. All Rickystator's pullers say 27mmx1.0 on his website. Banshee's are 27mmx1.0 Do you have both pieces of the puller or did you loose the outside, bigger piece or leave it in a flywheel you pulled off? Without pics, It's hard to guess what you got going on.

I just cruzed Ricky's website, all pullers are the same, post a pic of your flywheel too.

It's not leaking from the bolts, It's leaking off the bolts. Probably from the carb that is not feeding it's cylinder. Try switching complete carbs left to right and see if your problem follows. Also most stators look like that on bikes that are ridden in water, nothing leaking from the bike will cause that.

Yes, you will have to have them out to get the new actuator down in anyway.

grease the ball and ends of the rod when going back together too.

The last OEM key I bought already had a small dimple on it. I had to lightly tap it in the slot and it stayed nicely. Remember the top of the key (flat) should be level with the floor, not parallel to the crank taper.

FMF recommends a 30 pilot and a 260 main, stock needle in the 3rd clip and air screw 1.5 out. I personally think 280 or 290 would be much closer. http://www.fmfracing.com/RiderSupport/JettingCenter

^^That and if your cane tips are rubber and on the outside of the rubber intake boot, NO WAY that will seal properly.

Get you some big jets and do a leakdown test and stop riding it before you melt it down.

It will be a good start... What's your elevation and does it run an airbox lid?

The jets in the kit will not be correct at all. See what it had in it, probably not right either but check. Are the slides in the correct carbs, not reversed?

yes, to set the gap.

The holes on the pickup coil itself are slotted.

OOOO steelwool with soapy water or naval jelly for bad rust or just this turtle wax chrome polish -- good stuff

Toomey sells separate parts.

I'm going with snow packed in the wheels. Also happens on vehicles with mud and snow.