jsinar

The cable isn't binding or anything, it moves freely.

IDK, I posted another topic on that, It holds good in low speed, but it acts weird sometimes in high speed. Going by the gps it was 10 less, but it pulled through the gears like a MF

I think (hope) it's just my clutch acting funny, if I launch it, it'll pull like crazy, through all the gears, but the high gears, I noticed today that if I'm rolling pretty good in 6th, let off the gas and hit it again, it'll act like the clutch is slipping. BUT.. if I push the clutch lever forward it'll stop. The lever has about 1/2" slack in it, so it's not adjusted too tight. Is it clutches or something else? If I pull the clutch lever and let it go, I can still push it forward a little, and I see the arm on top of the case moving while I push it forward it too. The 2 arrows meet when I let go of the lever, and if I push the lever forward it'll go past the arrow just a little. Is the adjustment in the case not right, or is this normal?

Mods are in my signature, but as far as internal work, No idea. Never been in the engine.

If I leave the 15 in it, will it hurt anything being overgeared? (like starting in 2nd gear in a car) It still pulls good in 1-5, just tops out the same in 6th. There won't be any catastrophic transmission failure or anything? I noticed the other day in the sand, that 1st was useless with the 14. So my thinking, which is probably wrong, using the 15 will give it a taller ratio in all gears, letting them wind out longer.. right?

I had googled about it on my phone, and something popped up on yahoo answers, Big LONG explination, it was probably wrong anyways tho. lol. I tried the 13, slowed it down by 10mph, tried the 14 and 0 timing advance, no change, It's like this fucker's got a speed limiter on it. I think it's hit 80 ONE time. I don't think it's the jetting because it never bogs down, builds rpm all the way to the top, I guess it's time for a 4mil.

What if I back the timing back to 0? I really couldn't tell a difference when I bumped it up.

I've been running 14/41 gearing, and my top speed's been about 78-79mph, So today I tried a 15/41, and had NO change in top speed, Then I got to reading around about being under powered, so I put the 14 back on and did what the write up says, got to running wide open in 6th, held the throttle pinned and blipped the clutch, and the rpms shot way up, which shows it's underpowered for that gearing, If I drop to a 13, it SHOULD help with that, right? It's already torquey as hell with the 14, But I'll be using more of the power with the 13 right?

Went out today and rode it, had the initial "jerk" when I put it in 1st the first time, but after that I didn't have a problem. And it was 25 degrees warmer today than it was last night.

I was talking to my buddy and he said it was prob because the plates dried out, I let it sit for a few hours with the clutch pulled in to let it completely drip out while I was doing other things. I'm going to ride it for a while tomorrow and see if it's any better.

I just finished changing my transmission oil, I have no idea what was in it before, this is the first change for me. I used klotz flex drive 30 this time. Before, when I would have it in gear with the clutch pulled in it would sit and idle indefinitely, Now after I changed it it wants to pull some with the clutch pulled in. Is it because it's just new thicker oil? I made a few laps around my property and it seemed to get a little better after it started warming up some. Is this normal or is clutches in my near future?

Went to the track with bansheebc sunday, ran my banshee a few passes, note: it's a trail bike, not lowered and I ran it on the dirt tires. Just went for the hell of it pretty much. Fastest time I cut in 1/8 mile was 9.80 at 69.5 mph, I was slooow out of the hole, I tried to launch it fairly hard a couple times, had to back out, didn't want to dump my ass on the track, so had to ease it out and hit it. Mods are in my sig, I was running on 20" tires also.

I've got a left lower, $30 shipped.

I pulled my fronts off today and made a GPS run, gained 9 mph from last night! And the air is about 20 degrees warmer too, so maybe 10-11 in cold air. Can't believe they were holding it back that much. Already cut them. Ill post some pics later.

Has anyone done a before and after mph test when they cut their fenders? I can't get but about 71-72 out of mine, but i'm sitting there watching the front fenders bow back like crazy, it almost looks like I'd get 5 mph out of it if I cut them.

I'm about to get ready to park my banshee for the winter before too long, and while it's down I'm going to do some general maintence to it. The main thing is how to get rid of the carbon buildup inside the pipes. It's thick, I broke off a little of it around the opening with a screwdriver when I did new gaskets. Would seafoam work if I poured some inside the pipe and sloshed it around? or what's the best way?

It clicked on how to tune it about an hour after I posted this. lol.

Ok, thanks, I didn't block it when I put it back together, and I think I've got some washers in my box of rc car parts that'll work for the needle.

First, in the clymers manual it says something about a flat washer that goes on top of the e-clip on the needle, Mine didn't have the washer, Is it required? What's it for? I'm thinking it's to keep the needle from being loose and jiggling around? Second, I noticed today when I had it apart seeing where my clip was on the needle, there's 4 holes in the slide. 2 for the screws, one for the needle, and one I don't know what it's for, but on the top side, the bracket that holds the throttle cable, if you mount it one way it'll leave that 4th hole open, or if you turn the bracket 180 degrees it'll block off that hole. Which way should it be? The manual doesn't say anything about that 4th hole.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-stapler-brad-nailer-all-purpose-easyfire-trade-forward-action-trade/p-00968514000P Get one of these. I haven't used mine on plastic, but it will drive the shit out of staples into mdf.

I finally put my 290s in, I had tried 300s but they bogged a little, 290's rev out nice, and I went ahead and put 27.5 pilots in to see if it would start easier. I was having an issue when idling, if I hit the throttle it would drop back down, slightly above idle, then it would slowly go back to idle, I fixed that by playing with the idle screws, now it'll rev up and drop back to idle. But How do I know if the airscrews are adjusted right? I've went from 2 to .5 turns out without any change in idle or anything. Only thing I noticed was the amount of smoke at idle. I did like this site said www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html about setting the screws, then start it, let it ldle for about 10 minutes then look at the plugs, no matter where I set the screws the plugs look almost new, very very light discoloration, and has a film of oil on them. Mods are in my signature, I'm about 400 ft above sea level.

It was the blue ones from rocky mountain that was $10 each. I think they were tusk. It said 35w=60w.

Alrighty, did another chop with about +2.5 timing, 85 degrees outside.. Still looks rich, but there was no bog top end. Figure it should be good til about 60 degrees or so.. 2 passes, 6th gear wot, held it for about 7-10 seconds each pass.

How much for the stock headlight lenses and guards?

I need some stock headlight lenses and grilles for them. The blue bulbs i put in were apparently too hot for the lenses. lol. melted both of them and the guard in the middle..