03crawldaddy

How do you like those tires? What do you run them on, do you think they would hold up on some hard dirt?

With my cheetah on smaller tires I will normally leave the valve core in and just use the cheetah with no air hose or anything. Blows the tire on and then you can air it up a little more after that. For the 18 and 20 inch wide truck wheels even with two cheetahs that normally won't work. We've taken 2x4's and cut them wider than the wheel and propped the tire open and set them in the sun to help them open up then ether was a must still.

Big red has an idea there. If the small hose from the the little nipple on the head, I call it the steam port, is clogged, it could be getting vapor locked from steam build up in the head I would imagine and would cause irratic temperatures. There are always hot spots that can create the steam in the head, that's what that hose vents to the top of the radiator.

check out that brake lever...

My buddy has one of the early 450r's. When they were only kickstart. I love the way that thing handles. I like them better than the yfz's.

Also, if you weld a bead all the way around the inside of a race, it will loosen it up quite a bit and makes it way easier to remove, sometimes it will fall out. I do it a lot instead of heating the outside and ruining paint. Just for a future reference.

I had a 660 a few years back, I only had it for about 3 weeks sold it. I was very unhappy with the way it handled, it felt big, heavy, and the center of gravity felt to high for me. I'm sure with suspension work it could be made a lot better. But then again why not just put that money in your banshee suspension? I would stay away from that conversion.

Wrong flywheel can cause it. Had that problem on a bike before.

I'm willing to bet the running backwards is what is breaking it. Is your flywheel keyed right? I'd check it out. Possibly maybe timing causing to run backwards. I haven't seen anything run backwards in a long time. Never a banshee either. Normally vintage bikes at the races.

I think someone if messing with you guys on this one...

Not trying to be smart, but did you check the fuel? I've done it before an felt like a complete idiot.

I see. I never really thought about that. How come accelerator pumps don't work on 2strokes? I don't really know the ins and outs of all the different carbs. I know how to jet, and clean them, and the basics. But I couldn't tell the difference between a pj, pwk, etc... What about the carbs that have butterfly, then a slide with a diaphragm and aping attatched?

Whats the advantage of an fcr?

I would say if it the brake hub that is threaded, it is clockwise to loosen. Also, that thing looks real heavy, but I like it.

How do you like it? Where's the power? You get the Athena or the sr71? I've had a few people in my area recommend them, even tho they are on the other side of the country.

Why not have two sets of carbs? Leave them in the frames, just switch motor. Maybe that's what you are talking about already and I missed it completely.

I would try carefully inserting a chisel in the gap then turning. Make sure you are turning it the right way. He might have had a left hand thread put on one side like old cars and trucks so it wouldn't back off. I assume the axle is still on the bike? I would also like to see full pictures.

Bansheerider, what motor did you get from wicked of you don't mind me asking....

X2's on the bearing supply place. That's where I always go. Most places carry a ton of stock, seals and bearings are a lot cheaper price and normally a high quality piece. I've bought axle bearings for other bikes that cost $22 a piece from the dealer for $6 a piece from my place locally. There is huge mark up on this stuff at dealers, and auto parts stores normally don't have what you need and are expensive too. They also normally have good quality shop supplies like sealants, thread lockers, parts cleaners, since they are normally commercial suppliers for industrial applications.

You sure it's not too lean? That's what I'm betting, better check it out before you melt those new pistons.

Alright, thanks.

I don't like type f either, or any atf in a transmission like this unless it calls for it. I try to run a quality oil in all my stuff. we normally have a lot of synthetic 15w-40 or 5w-40 around cause that's what we run in all the trucks. Some people say not to use synthetics in these cause it will make the clutches no good and slip, but I've never had a problem with any of my bikes. Ever heard of that? I'm not arguing the fact you shouldn't run a good oil. I just never heard of such a short change interval. Every 6 rides?

I know with some of our four strokes we had, the plugs would do weird stuff when they got hot or lean. Maybe try a cooler plug, or check out the jetting. But that doesn't explain them being wet when you pull them unless they are getting soaked after they lose fire. I'm just getting into banshees... I'm probably way off...

Where do you guys get all your motor stuff from? I'm in ft Myers and it doesn't look like there's anyone around here that I can find. Anyone local do good porting or anything like that?

How is it running if it's completely closed?