03crawldaddy

Richard Head. Dick for short...

I've never heard of changing the oil in the transmissions on these things every 4 or 5 rides. That's crazy. I ride my bikes almost every day. I need to change my oil every week? No way. There's no way these oils, any kind are beIng exposed to the extremes that would break them down in that little time. In my truck that I pull 20k pound trailers with gets the tranny temps over 230* degrees at times in the heat and stop and go traffic. I know that ATF +4 is way different than type f but it still can't be worn out that fast. Also, most all of the newer truck transmissions and transfer cases use a more modern transmission fluid. The rear ends in these trucks generally run at 100*+ constantly and there is way more load on the ring and pinion of a 7000 pound truck especially pulling 10k+ pounds compared to these bikes. Even if you run regular 10w-30 motor oil in the banshee, there is no way these oils are being put under more pressure than the main bearings in a car or truck motor. Now if there is water or it smells like burnt clutch then yeah, change it more often, but there is probably an underlying cause.

Can spindle mount wheels be used on a bike that will only see limited trail use, but mainly open areas and back roads? Would that be unsafe? Not much sand down here in Florida where I live but I really like the look of the spindle mount wheels. Thanks in advance guys.

What about the slide? does it still fit right? I have lathe and mill and have been debating on doing it but haven't seen much info on it. Maybe I'll google it. Can anyone post up some pics. Thanks guys

What about cranks from TDR? Only reason I ask is cause they are local and I'm tryin to get started on a 4 mil build.

I'd say it's probably from low compression. A motor that is hard to start but runs great once started is normally from poor sealing rings. But I would check out your carb issues. It could be flooding out after it sits for a while (over night)

Kerosine is more like #1 diesel, which is closer to jet fuel than the actual fuel you put in your trucks. The diesel you get at a pump is #2 diesel. As an octane booster I'm not sure how it would work out. It could slow the burn down, which would reduce detonation, but would you really gain power? I wouldn't imagine. Also, diesel is considered a lubricant, gasoline is considered a solvent.

You're gonna have to make sure you have the center of the hose pretty perfect right? Also, what if your yardstick isn't perfectly level? Would it throw it all off? I guess if you started out with the fluid level and then cranked it up, that would solve the level problem. Just thought of that.

So is this going to be an all carbon fiber piece, or is it a plastic piece with carbon fiber over it? You said "wrap"

Synthetic oils are not bad for the clutches, I wouldn't add anything like slick 50 though. The reason why you're having this problem when you first start up and put it in gear is because the clutches are dryig out or sticking. After you ride it around for a bit, pull the clutch in and get oil in between the plates it starts operating normal again. I've only seen it happen on clutches that are old.

Yeah, I know it's gonna have a lot time tied up in setting it all up the way I want since it's a basket case. I'm not gonna bring it out until I get just the way I want.

Grab a thick book and cover up the carbs. Cuts the air from the motor, no air thru carbs, no fuel into motor. If its diesel ing from a lean condition it'll shut off. And you'd have to have a hell of an air leak for it to keep running. I've seen this done with blocks of wood that we're stuffed over turbo inlets to kill run away diesel engines. Now that's scary, a diesel motor turning at 7k+, just waiting for parts to granade thru the block.

Thanks everyone. Pretty good video. The can am and the 450r are dead nuts from start to finish. I figured the 450 would leave the hole a lil slower and the then come back on top end but not the case. They switch bikes and everything, same results. I guess I'll build it, see how it runs and go from there. Debating on the serval still, how is top end on them? Should I just go ahead and put bigger carbs on too? I gotta get to work on this thing, I'm getting tired of riding my all original 85 350x my dad bought new and the 06 Vinson 500. The Vinson is down with peeled nikasil and is waiting on a sleeve and piston.

Thanks couplex, that's what I was thinking also. And ls6, can you give me some info on your setup? I was thinking of a 60-70 hp build. I'm almost positive I'm gonna do a 4 mm crank, I had a friend of mine who had a new stock stroke crank send me one, but maybe I'll just save it for another build. I'm having a hard time deciding on a stock cylinder 4 mill port (not sure what kinda porting to get for my riding, thinking a dune?) a serval, or (don't slam me, an Athena 4 mill kit). The thing I like about the Athena is it comes with pretty much everything I'm gonna need minus crank from one place. I'm not gonna buy one off eBay. My buddy in Tennessee who messes with these bikes recommended wicked performance. I talked to them and they clean up all the ports and some other things for the same price. It comes with a better head with domes they can cut, wisecos, and all that stuff.. The guy I talked to seemed pretty straight up. If I go another route I'm pretty much starting from scratch. Any way I go after I make up my mind about that, I'm gonna use my stock carbs for now, advance the timing, can't decide on reeds, probably v force since that's what we always ran in our dirtbikes, k&n pods, dmc alien pipes for now, see how they run cause I've never seen them on a banshee before, I don't like them I was thinking of some cpi's. What do you guys think about that? I know y'all are gonna have a big no for the Athena, but I've honestly heard 50/50 mixed feelings about it. Monty

Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. I got a long way to go on this bike. The motor was trashed when I got it. The kid rebuilt and it was .100 over on stock cylinders. He had a lot of detonation. Rode it one time after the rebuild, busted a piston, slung the rod thru the whole top case and ripped the bottom up pretty good. He gave me a set of cases with it, but the lower has some chain whack. I was just gonna put it together all stock, but don't think I'll be very happy with that. So I'm having a hard time deciding what I wanna build. I wanna be able to out run all my buddy's 450's and the one kids 800 can am. I haven't bought much cause I'm not sure what I wanna do for my end result. We ride mostly wide up places not much tight technical woods. I need it to be pretty reliable too, not wanting to have to run race fuel. Is there anyone close to me? I'm in southwest Florida. The only place I've found is tony doukas racing, but no one really talks about him on here. He's only about 20 minutes from me.

I have been around motors and building them for awhile. I have mainly built high performance 4 strokes and just your average rebore, rering 2 strokes, all sorts of car and truck motors and diesels. I got a banshee in pieces a little while back in a trade for some steering stuff and this will be my first high performance two stroke build. The main reason I am posting is I see a lot of you guys talk about psi as a guide for running high octane fuel. I was always taught that your compression ratio was your biggest indicator of the need for fuel, along with head design and squish. I would believe it could be different on two strokes because of your exhaust ports and other things just like cams on four strokes. But I was wondering if some of the more experienced guys could explain it more. I see alot of posts sayin "if your at 155psi you need race fuel". Please explain to me more, and please don't bash me too much cause I'm a new guy. I've been reading this site for a while and just signed up.