tsharktim

Port work, Cool head, pancake bearing, case saver

V force 3 seem to be the ppls choice

did you put the slides back in correctly, the cutouts/half moons face the air filter. yes the idle scews should push the slides up as you screw in the idle screws. You can back the idle screws out until they dont contact the slides, then slowly screw them in until you feel them just touch the slides then go a full turn in. then let it warm up and set you idle just make sure each screw gets turned either in/out the same amount. Best thing would be to make your own carb sync tool but this should get you close.

Pm me if you'd sell the silencers separate?

From personal experience it is not worth the few bucks you save on the cheap ebay seal kits. I lost a crank, case, head and a 2 month old top end to a seal kit I got off ebay. I saved 10 bucks to spend 900 two months later.

Thanks alot, gonna call him soon as I go on lunch.

Lookin for a complete motor. Can be running or not, mine exploded and I'm thinkin it may be cheaper to start w a whole different motor.

I've got a few items from him w no problem but maybe that's because I drove 2 hours to see and pick the actual parts I wanted. Last trip was to get a ebay special crank, when he showed me the 2 totes full of cranks that "came off mechanically sound n running bikes" , I found several that had rough or even bad bearings. Needless to say I found a crank elsewhere.

They mean u have to take the spark plugs out of the head/motor and look at the bottom or post some pics of the bottoms

I think there's a pinned link in how tos on leakdown testers. U can make your own for about 20 bucks. I used the link to make mine and its a invaluable tool to have for two strokes. 6psi for 6 min is the goal. The seals r on either end of the crank but there's no sense pulling ur clutch cover and flywheel before u know if you have a leak or not cuz u gotta split the cases to replace seals anyway. Do the leakdown first it can eliminate a lot.

Could it have been bad gas right from the pump? I only run 93 unless I can't... but the 2 full tanks since the break in have been shell 93 oct

It was the stock head, I've been looking at used cool heads already. I live I'm Mi and ride whatever I can but its usually sandy trails up north. I want to focus on adding top end becuase it has enough bottom for me. I was Runnin t-6s , +4, 290 main which was a lil too rich, k&n filter, box w no lid. Im thinkin a dune/play port from hjr, hot rods crank , and used cool head. I just can't afford the 4mil and porting right now

Above my paygrade

So my brother in law blew my shee this weekend, not exactly sure what went wrong other than one plug was loose n that side was seized. He said it started backfiring then ran good before it locked up. Didn't do a leakdown but it was just rebuilt a month ago w new top end, n seals it held 6psi for 15min. Regardless I need a crank top end n head now so I'm looking for input. Should I go w a 4mil or stock stroke w port work. What's more bang for the buck

Ok thanx that's probably why this was the first I've seen them for a shee....I plan on gettin a +2 or 4 this winter just thought I could get a feel for the diff. between the two w the extensions but if yall feel that strongly about them then ill just wait for the real deal

My buddy has some +2 or +4 bolt on swingarm extensions. I was thinkin of gettin them just not sure how they measure up to a true extended swingarm.

Looking for set of toomey silencers to fit t 6s

Ok I just got a blown up shee for cheap, got it all rebuilt and and can't get it to rev out seems like its too rich but it can't be. Its all stock, 200 mains Uni filter w no air no box lid etc, 80.degrees, 700ft. If I shake.the silencers I can hear the piston skirts that broke off... This might be a long shot but if the silencer tubes are plugged w the skirt pieces would it run like its rich or,have a bog about half throttle and up?

I plan on bein there for the first time since bein a kid...Anything I should prep for? I heard the bikes need to be checked first for spark arrestors & sound & something about vouchers. i dont want to get there and not be prepared...

Kinda what i was thinkin, either way the cylinders are fine luckily I had them measured and well within spec and no scratches. Still not a bad deal for 350. I was on c list looking for a crank and found a set of t-6s for $150. I had to get them for mine, guess the crank will have to wait till next week....

maybe I misworded it...no Im not asking if I can ride it like that. I just thought there would be more damage done if someone had been riding w a missing rod bearing

just picked up another bashee for $350 running. The left side was cutting in and out and had real low compression. I plan on going 4mil anyway, when I pulled that left jug the lower rod bearing was in pieces. Now would the bike be ridable like that kid I picked it up from said he had just rode it??? Like I said Im doin a 4mil anyway I just thoufgt that if a rod bearing went it'd cause the bike to seize or at least run like shit.

First gotta say thanks to all in here, I rebuilt m first shee and was able to ''search'' most of my questions. Anyhow had it out on the roads and hit 75 according to my buddy who was next to me on his r6. this is a all stock bike w 65mm wisecos, just seemed to be flat in 5th and into 6th. is this a lack of pipes to let it rev out more or a jetting issue? another shee was starting to pull hard as i was falling flat but his has fmfs, reeds, k&n filter. as of right now the bike sits w a uni filter, no air box lid, 220 mains, air screw 1.5 out, 700alt and70 degrees the rest is stock and needle is set in the middle. I plan on getting pipes soon just want to make sure im not too lean up top and melt down the fresh work.

So I need some help figuring this issue out... my buddies shee will barely idle and has shit for bottom end about 1/2 it screams. the bike has fmf gold series, bossen reeds, k&n filter, no airbox lid, 25 pilot jets, 250 mains, stock carbs at 700 ft and 70ish temp. we tried 30 pilots cuz thats all we have and it seemed worse but with the 25s and 250s we started w the air screw at 2 turns out and it was running better at 4 1/2 screws out. I think it needs 27.5s but would one size make that much of a difference. Im not sure what else it could the compression is 115, and the plugs look oilly too. and tors has been deleted too any ideas would be be great.

ok thanks gonna get that ordered tonight