tsharktim

OK thanks for the replies. Im just gonna get the idle screw, it already has the carb caps almost like they did a half ass switch from the tors.

ok so this might be a dumb ass question but after a search I couldnt find a answer... Its a J arm frame w fmf gold series, k&n filter, air box w no lid at under 1000 ft alt and reeds. Wasnt running when bought so started w 320 mains working down to a 250 which is fine at wot if I dump the clucth but wont idle and has no bottom end. the tors is gone but the adjustment screw w jam nut in the center of the carb was never put in, I dont have tors on mine but have this adjust. screw so does the idle? screw need to be drill n tapped? Like I said the bike screams if you wind it out to at least 1/2 throttle but will stall if you dont have the rpms up there. thanks for any imput

yeah i was at bull gap last year and not much turn out and i see wat you mean about the other trails being blocked off the center insnt much of a challenge either took a 125 cr up it w a bald ass tire.... far as bundy hill I have heard of it but never been my cuz just got his shee running maybe I can talk him into goin sat otherwise Ill be by myself on a black n white shee (stock for now)

I just got my banshee finally put back together and looking for some good places to ride this summer. We always used to hit bull gap hill but I heard that not many ppl ride there anymore. Im always up for a new place to ride whether its sand, trails or the neighbors yard. I plan on hitting silver lake just not sure the best time to go

ok what should the bore size be for a 64.5 piston

I have my engine split right now for new seals and to clean out the crank from a broken skirt and just wanted to ask what size pistons I should go with. The cylinders measure from 64.07 to 64.37 at the widest, will I be ok running std. size wisecos 64 I think or should I go 64.50 and have it bored? Also, what should the new bore be w wiseco pro-lites... Thanks

True... I missed the original point. i actually just helped a friend split a case were they used a reg rtv that caused an air leak on the right cyl. Ive used the Hondabond, little easier to use than yamis

OH and like I said I know people who are ase cert. and couldn't explain 2-stroke jetting or what a main jet is so ase really isnt much to stand on

Ive actually got alot of good info from this site(more than any other)... guess theres a know-it-all everywhere, No suprise right?

NO ofense but I know people personally who are ''certified'' who dont know jack shit so I wouldn't use the certified phrase unless you really know what you are talking about///

Just to agree w the stupid people comment... My cousin just bought a shee w fmf gold series, boisen reeds, .60 over and still had 200 mains in it. The guy said it had a BROKEN rod and wouldn't run but a lil carb clean and shee started right up!!! Only for a sec w choke on (didn't have any bigger mains on hand). Oh and when asked....He said ""OH, yeah I know how to jet a 2-stroke""

OK So my cousin just got a shee for 250 that wouldnt start and after checking it out the carbs were dirty. It has fmf gold series pipes, boisen reeds, stock air box, and I think .60 over. Good deal!!! We cleaned carbs and she started righted up but while cleaning the carbs I noticed it had stock 200 jets and the 25 pilots.... I was thinking it should be 320-330 mains and 27.5 pilots. Of course its gonna be lean w the 200 mains but what would be a good starting point? 330 then chop or higher? oh and wee in mich so 800ft alt and 70 degrees (Yeah were like 30 above normal temp here). I would rather start fatt then lean.....Thanks oh and it has yhe K n N filter not pods and no outerwear.

Not sure how true it is because I have never used it but I heard RTV is too thick and will not let the bearings seat properly

OK So Im doin a top end rebuild as well as splitting the cases to find the rest of my piston skirts, but after looking on ebay i see all different brand gaskets and pistons. Just wondering if anyone has used the K&S gasket sets And what about the Namura pistons? I always went with wiseco in my dirtbike and not sure how these other brands compare to wiseco or the pro-x on a stock bike?

Just a little update.... pulled the jugs to do the top end tonight and found my left side piston skirt or what was left of it rattling around in the stock pipe. Next was right side, nothing rattling in the pipe but the whole skirt was gone. WTF So, instead of putting new parts on and possibly f_ing them up gonna open it up and see if I can find the rest of my skirt LOL While I got it all open up I was thinkin of doing a 4mill. but this is a alll stock bike and not sure what all needs to be done to support the 4mill? Im thinking pipes and vforce3 reeds. Or should i do a port job w/ pipes? Mostly I ride trails but sand when I get the chance

heres some pictures http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t390/tsharktim/?action=view&current=PIC_0210.jpg http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t390/tsharktim/?action=view&current=PIC_0209.jpg http://s1057.photobucket.com/albums/t390/tsharktim/?action=view&current=PIC_0204.jpg

heres some pics... Clutch side was at 60psi and is loose in the cylinder, left side was not and had 90psi. Bike was said to have a new top end but looks to me like it was a cheapest possible fix to get it back running because one piston has 63.95 on top and the other does not Ok well its telling me the file was too big and not sure how to shrink it. Gonna pull the cylinders tomorrow and see how the rest looks...for now im back to digging through old posts have found alot of good info on here...thanx

Thanks for the quick reply I see your in midland, so am i, do know anyone around here who can clean the gouges off my head and clean out or bore my cylinders.

I didi drain the cylinders. I already started ordering parts for my rebuild, the pistons are stock so im gonna check around for someone to bore them soon as i see if these have the nikasil like mybike does. Iim not gonna worry about the coolant leak until its back together when i can do a leakdown. Plus i think i found out how the coolant was getting in....through some pretty deep scratches on the head, looks like they used a awl to scrape the old gasket!!!

i cant say 100% but i drained all the hoses, im sure a little wouldve made its way in but not as much as i seen

I finally got my first banshee last week, it had a lil ping or knock coming from the clutch side when i got it so i checked for anything loose that might be the cause. far as i was told its all stock w/ new top end (heard that one before!!!). so i upped the mains for the cold and cleaned the carbs then it wouldnt fire up. new plugs and a little premix would get it to run a little so i checked comp 65 on clutch side 90 other so new top end but my questio is would coolant leaking into the head cuase it to fry the rings and get so low comp w a supposed new top end? i pulled the head and deffinately coolant in there so while im at it was gonna do all new seals too in case that was the cuase.