11AGUY

had the same damn problem... not sure what the deal is???? I stripped one and had to cut the nut off with a dremel tool.... seems like this is a common problem

talk to F.A.S.T, a site sponsor... you can either send him your head and he'll machine it for you (think he said shaves $10.00 off cost) or you can buy one from him that's already machined... think it ran around $55. I was going to send him mine but when I pulled it off it was in pristine condition and didn't really warrant the $$$$ this build...

I am just buttoning up a fresh rebuild and trying to slide the pipes on and they were giving me issues..... just changed put the o-rings on the pipes and they were a bitch to slide on the cyliders.... OK, now i have them on and there is a gap (towards the bottom of the cylinder)... is this how these things fit sometimes??? can't remember what they looked like when i them apart...not a huge gap.... should I be ok??? should I start it up and see if there is a leak?? Thanks

has anyone had a problem with the cylinder dowel pins. I have two that are rusted and warped and won't alloy the cylinders to seat properly. unfortunately one of them is stuck in the bottom of the right cylinder. I put the cylinder onto the piston and slid it down and it wouldn't seat. dowel pin appears to be bent and won't slip into hole at the base of the stud.... pick up two tomorrow from the stealership, just wondering if this is common......?????

you the man!!! thanks a bunch.... so that triggers the rear brake light and its the only purpose??? I'll check on that banjo bolt

5FK-82530-00-00 STOP SWITCH ASSY I am putting the clutch back together and put the cover on and have the stop switch assembly hanging down and can't remember how this thing hooks in... it appears as if it hooks onto one of the clutch cover screws... anyone have any pics... is this thing necessary??? can you unplug this and still get the machine to run??? I see some guys with this part off their banshee's.... any close up pics would be awesome

I'm in the process of rebuilding my banshee and just wondering how many people have actually had or heard of the impeller and/or plastic driven gear failing?? I have a completely stock engine and will be doing mostly trail riding (not sure if that matters....). I took it apart and upon inspection everything looks fine.... Should I just replace the plastic driven gear because its 8 years old with another plastic, replace it with an aluminum from MULL or do both impeller and gear from MULL.... Opinions appreciated....

I have a stock swingarm that I recently replaced skid plate with a PRM skid plate... Replaced chain guide with one from HOT FOOT MOTO and it will not fit at all... any one else running across these problems.... anyone have the same set-up and have a suggestion for the guide.... mine seems way too big

Thanks.....

Thx guys... What about dowel pins??? I have one on the case around a stud...is there 1 per cylinder???

Guys i took my cylinders off and am in the processes of cleaning off old gasket when I took a close look at the case studs. It looks as if the six smaller studs are striped at the top ( maybe 1/4 inch). The bigger studs are fine... Is this how these studs are suppose to be??? I have nothing to compare them too and my cylinders are being bored out right now...

You see these god damn guys on you tube taking these pieces off like their nothing... And then I take them off and the battle begins... My wife's cousin just rode this Thing and never really bothered to keep up with any maintenance ... So after bending the axle, needing all new bearings And seals throughout and a new top end, I got the bike because he couldn't afford it..

in the past I have made the mistake of giving things a little too much english and pay for it latter on... trying not to let my temper lead me astray... we'll see how long that lasts... just soaked the crap out of the studs with PB Blaster and gonna let it soak... they were all white from corrosion... my engine guy says that he deals with this all the time with jet ski's and they can be a real pain in the ass.. if i can't get the head off i'll take the whole package off in one piece

Sorry disconnected

Ticktock, do I just unbolt the cylinders and they slide off... My buddy mentioned something about a rod (powerstroke), but he wasn't sure because he mainly works on dirt bikes... Said if its there it needs to be connected

You need the idle screws.....Jsparky on you tube has vids on the complete install... I brought mine to a machine shop to drill and tap

When you remove the TORS all you do is unplug hard plastic wire connections, no scissors required... Not sure what u cut.... That could be giving u the problem..... I just removed them last week

ok, before I damage anything, i've tried everything that the Clymer's manual state's to do, including using a rubber mallet and putting spark plugs in and giving it a few kicks.... I have nothing happening what are some tricks, head bolts have corrosion and looks like some are making contact with the head bolt holes

just installed it today, pretty easy set-up and looks and works great!!! I was dreading the install because I only found threads for suzuki LT's and they were all saying that they had to get barrel extenders or switch to an aftermarket cable.... I guess Banshee's are better suited for an easy swap out.... looks like it's pretty good quality..... couldn't throw down the $$$$ for an ASV right now because i'm in the middle of a rebuild and need to shell out some money for a new top end and pipes...

anybody have one of these set-up??? I am installing mine tomorrow and can't fine any threads anywhere here..... I see on sites for other bikes that they have to use barrel extenders to take up the slack in the line... not sure if its the same with the banshee??? I know the ASV is a similar set-up.. any suggestions on how this thing should be mounted or some tricks to keep my sanity...

just got the same one you suggested (Moose Brand) on ebay for $17 shipped... upon further inspection one of the boots was shot, so with time on my side I'll pull it apart.... now the Clymer's manual suggests that you pull the brake pads off and then pump the brake until the piston pops out??? sound right??? then clean everything (states let the new rings and piston soak in brake fluid and reinstall)... thinking about picking up some caliper grease to lube everything when i re-install... it also states to disconnect the brake line. is there an easier way or any tricks... thanks for all the help this site is fantastic.....

thanks, I'll be ordering one today for sure... just started taking that thing apart, it's shot and needs the rebuild!!

do you know who sells those rebuild kits??? this is a winter long project so I have plenty of time... thanks

ok, now i just tried to install the caliper back on the rear axle and the mounting bracket is making contact with the rotor... acting as if the pads are 2 thick.... is there adjustments for that bracket??? nothing seems to be easy this week!!!

yup, that did it, thx for the help!!!!