11AGUY

just finished the total rebuild to include carb rebuilds from Moose racing.... got this beast dialed in with jetting and now, for some reason, I am getting some fuel drips out of the drain tubes that extend from the bottom of the carbs to under the swing arm... Now I had the fuel issue when the floats got stock and came pouring out of the overflow tubes, but not the drain tubes... now were talking about a small amount of fuel coming out of these tubes and not pouring, more or less a few drops the floats are spot and the drain screws are tight as all hell.... what ya think??

Q#32:How do I test the coil and spark plug caps? A#32:Locate the coil on the bike, it’s bolted to a frame rail just forward of the right cylinder. Unplug the orange and black wires from the wiring harness to the coil, and pull the spark plug boots off the spark plugs, then use a 12mm wrench to remove the coil mounting bolts. Many bike shops and dealerships have a bench tester for coils, if they’re nice they might just test it for free...in addition, resistance tests may test OK but the coil can still be bad, so if possible have it bench tested or swap in a known working coil to be 100% certain, even if you gotta pay a little bit for it. To test the coil, use an ohmmeter to first measure the primary side resistance between the "+" and "-" terminals that connect to the wiring harness, you should have between 0.28 and 0.38 Ohms. Next test the secondary side resistance between the "-" terminal and the connector inside EACH spark plug boot, (Edit: 11-29-2010, New recommended testing method, Rick) bansheesandrider, on 29 November 2010 - 09:38 AM, said: ...On ALL years Banshees you want to test the secondary by going wire to wire, not wire to ground as the manuals say. That is because a Banshee fire both cylinders at the same time, twice every revolution. Banshees and cars that are distributor less ignition(with coil packs) send the spark out one wire to the plug, it jumps the gap to the ground electrode and travels through the metal of the head to the paired plugs ground electrode where it jumps the gap to the center electrode and travel back to coil on the other wire. That is why you have to check it wire to wire. The way the manual says is the way to check a single cylinder coil OR a coil that is used with a distributor. you should have between 4,700 and 7,100 Ohms in each one spark plug wire to spark plug wire. If the secondary side test shows an open circuit (infinite resistance), remove the spark plug cap and test directly to the wire, if you then get the right resistance, replace the spark plug cap and test again; if it's still infinite the cap is bad. If you still show an open circuit at the end of the spark plug wire, remove the wire at the coil and test again; if it is still infinite Ohms, the coil is shot, if not the spark plug wire probably is bad. ] http://bansheehq.com...howtopic=133650 use the above link for all electrical questions just be advised, for stock plug boots, none of them have continuity for some reason, so when you check the secondary your probably gonna need to pull the boots off the wires and stick the probes in... just went thru this with mine

Yeah I am going to buy a adjustable timing plate soon... The needle is in the third clip and I am at .5 turns out on the air screw.. I also installed new carbon fiber reeds on the stock cages... Apparently this means that I might need to adjust the needle to the 2nd clip (leaner)... This is what I read on the digital tool box sticky on this thread.. Gonna try the half out choke trick once it's warmed up..... Should I bump up to 30 pilots??? Thx for the info

Your probably right.... Maybe it's the fact that I have been watching vids in YouTube and all the shee have aftermarket pipes and I am expecting the same sound and performance. I think most of those bikes have an advance timing and have more of a bottom end.. Have a set if T-6's that I am getting ready to put on but waiting on parts from Toomey... Plugs look good... Nice mocha color with a tiny bit of wetness... What about moving the needle???

Have a 2003 with stock engine, no porting, 400 feet elevation, stock pipes with DG silencer, bored .20 over, carbon fiber reeds, pro design foam filter with no lid, TORS removed... fresh rebuild Had issues a few weeks ago and Jeff from FAST told me that my mains were too small and I had to bump up to 27.5 pilots because I had the air screws .5 turns in (would die in gear in less I did so)... at this time I had the stock filter/cage and lid on Took the lid off with the prodesign foam set-up, put in 27.6 pilot and 260 mains....... synced the carbs prior too... had the air screws 1.5 turns out and when I put it in gear it had a lot of hesitation and fell on its face a few times.... had to turn the screws in to .5 to get it to take off and drive decent, but still not great... would the lid off and this new airfilter set-up effect my pilot that much... need to bump up to 30 pilots??? help please....

looking for an aftermarket bumper, let me know what you have.... I really like the protech style if anyone has something similar

thanks brother, I think I am avoiding the inevitable and just have to order them from Toomey.... just aggravated because If I would have known I would have purchased a different set of used pipes.... well I guess you win some and lose some... for the condition of the pipes and what I have to order now, I can chalk this one up as a loss.....

I have been calling around to local auto stores looking for the silencer retaining snap rings and o-rings... pretty sure I can find the o-rings anywhere but has anyone had any luck with a specific store for the snap ring... Toomey wants $5 plus shipping for one... also, the pipes that I bought from someone on this site that were suppose to be "take out of the box and put em on your bike" are missing all the mounting brackets for the stinger and silencer... Toomey wants $60 for those things... anybody have a design or way of making their own??? just pissed that I have to do this right now....... would have never bought these things if I knew what they needed, even if i got a good price on them

looking for two sets, one for stingers and one for silencer if anyone had them....

bought some used pipes and didn't get the hangers... so basically I can't hang my new pipes Thanks

thanks brother, I'll start with the 310's.... gotta a fresh rebuild so I'd rather be a little on the rich side rather than lean

ok same question, but just purchased PRO DESIGN FOAM FILTER KIT so I'll be ditching the lid all together when I put the pipes on next week.... If all of the above stated is the same, I figure I should be around 300 Mains, 27.5 pilot and 4th clip???? Sound like a good starting point??? Thanks

what size works (uni) with the stock carbs.. i see 1 3/4 ID, but do you guys use the angled or straight?? How about the length??? 4 or 6 inches??

good idea... I was thinking that beefier hose clamps would be a good idea but I like the idea of a bracket.... if you have any pics of that clamp I'd love to see your design.. Thanks

Have been doing a little research and have mixed feelings about changing my current airbox/filter set-up. I live in CT and will be riding on mostly track, trails and some sand pits, don't plan on hitting water with this bike.... I like both set-ups and have eliminated the K and N system from my options and wonder which set-up works better in not only engine protection but performance, or are they virtually equal... Biggest concern is how these mount and which is a more stable and will not fall off??? Has anyone had problems with either?? Thanks I have my new pipes coming in this week and want to replace the system when I put on the new pipes and re-jet

CAMATV thanks, I am thinking about adding K and N pods and getting rid of the airbox.... where would it push that 280-310 range too??

be careful if you plan on doing a second coat with Krylon fusion.. just painted my plastics, 1st coat came out great... but no, i couldn't be satisfied with that and had to put on a second coat... big mistake.... for what ever reason you can't re-paint over and the paint got that horrible cracked look.... i sanded down and repainted... even the spots that I had sanded down and wet sanded that had existing paint cracked again in some spots... would have been better off with the 1st coat look.... just an FYI

Thanks for the response.... did you have stock pipes on yours before... I had to put a bigger pilot in because with a 25 it wouldn't even have enough power to take off in 1st.... with these Toomey pipes would it make sense that I stay the same on the pilot (27.5)??? when I was having issue jetting my stock pipes with dg silencer Jeff from FAST stated that I was too lean and that's what was giving me problems (and he was right!!!)...

Guys need some help with my new T-6's..... Here's my specs: Bored .20 over with Wiseco Snorkel removed off stock airbox Foam Twin Air filter on stock cage Carbon fiber reeds on stock cages TORS Eliminator kit w/ idle screws approximately 400 feet above sea level in CT Weather between 60-75 degrees Currently have stock pipes with DG silencers and will be replacing them this week.... I had to rejet with 27.5 pilots because the bike would fall flat on it's face when you put it in gear... currently at 240 for mains With that in mind I filled out digital tool kit under this forum and it stated that I needed between 320 and 360 for the mains (average of 340) and 27.5 and 30 for the pilots (average 30) and 4th clip.... That seems really high... also went to the worksheet were members enter their current settings and it seems people with similar (not exactly the same) but same alt and temps are running anywhere between 280-up looking for a little guidance on where to start... new top end so I know I need to start a little high but 340-360 seems really high for my set-up Thanks guys

spoke with Jeff from FAST and told me I was way too lean on my pilot... he was right!!!! takes off now with bigger pilot and just a matter of adjustments and sync to get her perfect... thanks guys

for $8 each just get new ones instead of trying to file the carbs down... get these from Jeff http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=359

get the tool from Jeff from F.A.S.T..... great guy and will help you out in a heartbeat if you have questions.....

alright thanks..... cleaned the coil mount and coil grounds with a wire brush...... stator and timing plate look corroded, where are the grounds???

yeah, I checked the key-switch and kill switch with DMM and they are in working order... I followed the steps on the electrical FAQ thread that I found on this site.... stator, pick-up coil, harness has continuity and even replaced the CDI and coil for haha's....

If I don't feather it and just give it a little gas it just dies... I i feather it and have to keep feathering it, it will go for a little (running like complete dog shit) and then die on me.... checked everything with a DMM and everything is within spec... only thing that is not checking out is carb boots.... I can't get a reading with them attached to the wires... pull the boots and the wires pass the secondary coil test for ohms..... try to check continuity between both ends of plug boots and nothing/..... don't get it because I figured that if they were jacked up the bike wouldn't even idle..... it just sort of peters out due to lack of power, it just doesn't totally cut out any suggestions