11AGUY

TORS and Parking Brake removed with elimination kit 32:1 maxima stock pipes with DG silencers fresh bore .20 over Wiseco Carbon Fiber reeds on stock cages just replaced CDI box and coil (with "used") carbs synced all electrical checked carbs rebuilt with Moose rebuilt kits Main Jet 220 Pilot 25 1.5 turns out 3rd (middle groove) on needle issue is i finally got the bike to idle well but will fine tune when i receive the sync tool from FAST next week originally had the screws set 2 turns out but put them in .5 turns and the bike seemed to idle better... gave it a tiny bit of throttle and it sounded good... put the bike in gear and it falls flat on it's face... if i give it a bit more throttle and sort of keep it moving with the thumb throttle, it hesitates move forward, bucks and then dies..... what should I concentrate on, sound like a needle or pilot jet issue completed the worksheet sticky on this thread and it stated position 2-3 for the needle, 200-220 main and 25-30 pilot... I am at 500 feet elevation I was thinking of adjusting the needle to the 4th groove and see how the bike reacted.... Thanks

anybody had this issue???

http://bansheehq.com...howtopic=133650 you need to read this and follow.... helped me out a bunch going through an electrical issue myself at the moment and believe it to be the CDI causing my issue... but if you just lost spark check the coil..... as posted numerous times on this site, they rarely go bad, but the plug boots go often as they did on mine..... you need to check everything with a multi-meter and rule things out before calling it a CDI issue because the CDI by itself can't be checked apparently..... gives you step by step instructions what I just went through, found plug boots shot, but all other resistance and continuity checks were within spec which lead me to believe my CDI (process of elimination) is bad.... we'll see no expert, hope this helps..... learned this stuff by reading hundreds of posts on this site and the Clymer's manual.... I got a digital multi-meter (DMM) from Sears and it works great (if you need one)

Guys I am trying to figure this out and want to know if anyone has had similar experience and make sure I'm headed in the right direction. I just rebuilt top end and this issue I currently have existed prior to Rebuild... TORS removed and all plastic connections at harness taped Parking brake unplugged at harness and also clipped at harness where it connect to CDI ( bike side) Primary and secondary coil checked with DMM but boots are shot and not registering at all Stator and pickup resistance fine Continuity throughout wire harness Key switch and kill switch checked and fine Carbs rebuilt and getting fuel New carbon fiber reeds Perfect compression 120 per Here's the deal... Got the shee to idle well but when I hit the throttle it fell flat. Not a lack of fuel type of flat on its face but something electric thats holding it back This is exactly what it did prior to rebuild..... Now it won't even start and has weak intermittent spark if any which I blame on the coil.. But from what I've read on here it sound like the CDI is bad and keeping it from reving... Sound right to you guys....it's definitely not a fuel issue as I showed it To the guy that bored my cylinders and he ageed and mentioned asking you guys because of your knowledge of banshee's...

pm sent

Thanks brother, just ordered one (stock)

well, i checked my DMM and it's + or - .2 ohms (plus .8%), so I'm guessing the coils is fine and the plug boots are shot... hear this is a common problem but, everything else checked out, so it leads me to believe that my CDI is done.. see based on some posts that this is a common problem.. any suggestions about aftermarket brands or should I get a used stocker??? i see Jeff from FAST sells a Magnum CDI for around $100.... these any good

well I just ordered a used working stock one on ebay, I'll check the readings when I get it... was only $30 shipped see if the readings are the same when I get it..... thanks

having issues with my banshee after a rebuild (posted a thread earlier), just went through the electrical.... stator and pick-up coil test fine... tested the primary coil and it was reading between .6 and .7 ohms (manual states needed to be between .28 and .38).... that's double what it should be so I figure the coil is shot??? but heres the thing, it passed the secondary test.... the caps had to be pulled to get a reading so there obviously shot, but due to the fact that it passed the secondary test, does that mean its still shot??? This is the 1st time I have ever messed with electrical so its interesting... unfortunately I don't have another coil handy to check..... what ya think???

Yeah when I got the banshee it had stock pipes and silencers... The silencers were shot and the pipes were fine.. So due to a cash shortage I bought dg silencers and put them on the stock pipes... I will buy a set of used T-5s on here when I find them. So based in what my guy that did my cylinders and what other members stated, silencers only shouldn't change my jetting drastically... I did put carbon fiber reeds on the stock cages and bore .20 over, but besides that, that's it... I did the program under the exhaust jetting forum and it stated mains between 200-220 and pilot between 25-27.5, clip between 2-3. I have stock jetting and clip position... Now it won't start... Is going up to 26.5 pilot and 210 main going to make a huge difference???

I installed a clear filter, so I can see it's getting fuel.... I had the pipes off and painted them and the entire time they were off the ends were taped closed... I'll check again though and check the stator and plug wires...... now that it won't start and has weak spark, I'm thinking electrical.... this is my 1st Banshee build so this has been a learning experience..... headed out to the store to pick-up a new digital multi-meter!!!!!!

there's actually a local guy that is parting out his banshee... so maybe I can grab his electrical system..... we'll see.... I think there might actually be a little rust on mine... i'll check pick-up coil gap as well

brand new wiseco pistons that are in the right way.... pulled the carbs again, floats are opening and closing, jet needle and needle jet are brand new.... Just installed brand new carbon fiber reeds during the rebuild.... I am in the process of break-in... so as far as the reeds go, now that I have the carbs off, I should be able to move the kickstarter and see them open/close correct?? Here's the predicament... the bike is acting the same as it did prior to rebuild and now it has all new parts... the only thing I couldn't get it to do before was idle and I'm pretty sure that was due to gummed up jets.... same issues all together, froggy throttle response, put the bike into gear and it dies... when I checked spark yesterday, it was very weak and difficult to even see the blue arc...the only thing that I didn't check was the stator and coil..... possibly a bad coil, pick-up coil, stator or CDI... also, I know that the lighting is separate, but none of the lights work.... wondering if there is a set of shorted wires??? the guy that did my cylinders and carbs is a top notch mechanic for a local motocross team and said due to the fact that I only bored .20, put new reeds and only put new silencers on, my jetting shouldn't really change that much, plus the plugs are a perfect tan color.... so the bike would start and idle in the morning, now it won't start at all???? also, checked compression yesterday, prefect 120 psi in each cylinder... going to do the prescribed continuity and resistance checks today after i pick up my new multimeter..... any suggestions guys... keep-em coming, we'll figure this out!!!! I'm freaking determined to do this with your help.....

Float height is spot on, carbs getting fuel, spark is weak but there (might have to check stator/flywheel)... The bowl with the brass tube goes in the carb with the choke??? Took it apart, but prior too wouldn't start again

not the parking brake... started it up and same problem, put it into gear and it died after idling for 10 minutes... idle sounded great but just doesn't sound right when you give it gas... turned the airscrews in 1.5 turns and tried to restart a few hours later and it wouldn't start.... turned back to 2 turns out and it still won't start.... i don't think it's getting enough fuel

I'm gonna wok on it today... grab some 27.5 pilots and 210 and 220 mains from the shop.... gonna unplug the parking brake sensor from the CDI as a member stated that could be the culprit (sensing a ground) even though I removed the parking brake wires going from the handle bars to the wiring harness... if no luck i'll mess with the air screws turning them in half each, if no luck i'll play with the jets and needle... sound like the right thing??? at idle my plugs are a nice mocha/tan color when I pulled them....

just wondering if I should change out my mains to 210 or 220.... is that why it sounds like crap and has no power??? running too lean??? I put it in gear and it just pukes on itself and then dies..... like it's not getting enough fuel/has enough power to take off

I unpluged the parking brake and removed the entire assembly.... is there a box that I am missing..... thought I did this step by step, is there an actual box.... removed the entire perch and wire from the throttle assembly and disconnected all wires.... just did the jetting sheet and said I need 210-220 mains (i have 200 now), possibly 27.5 pilot and possibly 2nd clip position.... what does everyone have there air screw at????? 1.5 or 2 turns out????

just did it a few weeks ago.... there is no dust cover... remember the sprocket/brake hub has a small lip that goes inside the carrier and gets sucked into place when you tighten your axle nuts (keeps debris out)..... just make sure you put the bearings in straight and the spacer does have to have some free play between the bearings

Yup, TORS box is gone.... totally removed, removed all parking brake parts and even unplugged the wire coming out of the throttle

just finished up a build on my 2003... bored to 64.5mm and installed Wiseco pistons..... upgraded to billet water pump and billet gear, new Tusk clutch kit with springs, rebuilt the carbs with stock jetting and needle clip position, replaced reeds with Tony Dukas Carbon fiber reeds, removed the TORS with motion-pro kit, drilled and tapped carbs with idle screw and replaced stock sliencers with DG silencers on stock pipes.. heres the deal, carb slides are in correct, tube between carbs is installed and i think I got the throttle adjusted correctly.... I got the banshee to idle correctly but when I give it some throttle it just sounds really weak and falls on its face.... when I put it into gear and try to drive it just dies on me.... I have removed the TORS and the entire parking brake and installed an MSR Clutch perch.... I didn't cut any wires, just unplugged all the connections at the hard plastic clips.... I am leaning towards the problem being a jetting and need to upgrade my mains (which are currently 200 and 25 pilot)..... also, the pipes don't fully seat onto the cylinders not matter what I do... the new o-ring that came with the top end kit made them a bitch to get on... i didn't feel or see any exhaust leak and don't believe it to be an issue but have attached a picture anyway... PLZ give me your advice and help me make her completely sea-worthy!!!! thanks

just did a rebuild and mine is acting similar.. sounds like a jetting issue, I think mine is a jetting issue as well.... it just seems to fall on its face when you hit the throttle

I hope so... Originally ordered some fmf but they didn't fit the stock pipe even though they said they would.. Think I'll return and buy a set of pipes

I just purchased a set of DG silencers to hook up to my stock pipes.. Just wondering if anyone had the whole DG set-up??? I ride trails mostly and some track... I've heard mixed reviews on these... Look pretty good but have not run them yet

had the same problem with mine... leaked all over my new driveway... the needle isn't seating properly, mine was stuck.. what i had to do was take the carb apart, pull the pin out that holds the float and apply a light coat of two stroke oil to the pin and put back together..... worked like a charm