My03banshee

Nah its deff slipping on pavement, when on dirt and I hit the powerband it literally just spins (brand new razr 2's too)....it throws a huge rooster behind me so I cant hit the powerband if any of my friends behind me unless they want to be attacked my dirt and rocks that hurt. On the pavement it slips when I keep the power going through the gears....If I shift slow and fall below the powerband and then get on it its ok but when Im doing a WOT pull I can feel and hear it slip, and if I ease off the gas for a second to give it time to match the engine/wheel speed together than back on the gas then it wont slip...so its not slipping too bad but its noticeable when theres max load like on the pavement. I was only going to get a new clutch cuz I figured these better clutch kits have better friction material than what I have in it now (hopefully) but I think I'm just going to try the stiffer springs (although I got to see what they look like, it might even have them on it already)...mine are a single coil spring. and what is everybodys opinion on the steel clutch plates with the dimples on it?

The other reason I had the clutch out was to change the clutch basket since it was grooved....I used the exact one in the link from FAST....The clutch plates looked good so thats the only reason I didnt change it then....But I saw no marking on them so I didnt know if they were stock or what.... I was looking at clutch kits with the YZF 1000 clutch plates in it.....Is the FAST kit better than the other kits with these plates? Are those plates all hype or what? Just trying to learn

Ok let me rephrase it, I dont need the best parts out there like to handle a race shee, I just need something to handle what I need. I've already spent enough time and money into it, I have more important things I need to waste my money on.

After doin some WOT pulls on dry pavement I noticed my clutch is slipping...It's a 4 mil with trinity stage 6 head, hot rods crank, wiseco top end, fmf pipes/silencer, proflow filter and air box lid removed, stock sprockets, etc.....What is a good clutch for the power I'm making? Preferably a direct replacement, I dont need any fancy lock out or whatever, not even sure what all that entails but I don't drive it that much so dont want to put too much money into it, I just want something that wont slip. Thanks and yes the clutch is adjusted properly on the clutch lever and inside the case and also have a pancake bearing already. The clutch plates look good since I just had it apart for another issue guess I just need a better friction material and stiffer springs or something

Damn some of you beat me to it, I was going to say the same. The more oil you put in the less fuel you have and making it lean. Run it back at 32:1 first....or if youre good with math see what you need to dilute it back with some gas to get it back up to a better mixture

Nah wouldnt seize but i would think it made some kinda knocking noises

And why will it run like a turd? Are you saying its a turd now? I know its not at its full potential but its plenty fast and the time to "fix" the jug spacer issue I could put into my other projects like my evo 8 or jetskis. A 600+ awhp car is goin to be priority over a quad....I can live with a half assed stroker for now The domes in it now are i believe 21cc....I only run 93 octane from shell, exxon or a top tier gas station...no detonation or ANY problem felt anyway. So far planning on getting the Noss head from Fast and calling it a day

This problem is still bothering me, milky liquid on the plugs (not much but noticeable)....no loss of coolant (not noticeable anyway), no white smoke indicating burning coolant, new head o-rings, runs like a raped ape and no pressure in the cooling system that I know of. If it had a bad head seal wouldnt the cylinder pressure be filling up the cooling system and piss coolant out of the radiator? Burn white smoke (maybe not enough of a leak to notice?) and be using coolant? Besides pressure testing the motor is there anyway I can check for a bad head seal? or any other options this problem could be?

Didnt think so.....I really didnt fell like pulling the jugs off anyway, its plenty fast anyway...for now lol I'm going to give Jeff a call and bother him with some questions but comments still welcome

After researching I'm seeing alot of good stuff about the Noss head, the one FAST sells is the exact same right? (since Noss makes it for them) Besides there name on it obviously.....anything else different? I want to buy some other stuff from them so it could save a shipping cost also....What exactly would I need to get rid of the spacers for the stroker? Would I be able to tell them to cut it for it and be a true bolt on or is it more complicated than that? Is 20cc the lowest I should go for 93 octane also?

I'll look into those other heads, I dont even have or want a stock head so thats out of the question. It's a 4 mil but it's not a 4 mil to its full potential since it was built using a spacer under the jugs (bought it like that) but dont have the time to keep upgrading it I just want to drive it. What's the best domes to use for pump gas? like 21 and I believe 22cc is stock? I'll be using 93 pump gas and amsoil oil....driven in NJ not sure of elevation Keep the comments coming!

I currently have a trinity stage 6 head on my 4 mil motor, recently just put the head and clutch cover back together, went through the carbs etc.....My spark plugs have a light milky liquid on both.....Head has brand new o-rings....I was VERYY careful putting in the o-rings and head back on since I've also heard issues on the trinity heads leaking coolant, but wasnt sure if it was leaking internally in the cylinder or externally. EITHER WAY I'm looking for a new head, I'm seeing mixed reviews on the pro design Cool head like where the squish area could be much more improved. Is there any good tried and true head for the banshee? I want something to run 93 pump gas. Thanks Also any other possibilies of the milky plugs besides being the head?

I know this was 2 months ago but ever find anything more on this? Sounds like one side is leaner? air leak?

curious about using the CLR too? Could it be bad for the seals or rubber parts or anything?

I got the same issue too, right side carb also. I diagnosed it to be the needle assembly, mainly the needle had nicks on it from something and was catching up on the inside of whatever the fuel inlet thing is called. I took the carb off and moved the float up and down and like 30% chance it would get stuck, and I mean stuck, I had to use pliers to get the needle out, I've never seen it like that but I smoothed out the 3 sides of the needle and helped but I ended up getting new carb gets for like $15 each so it has new needles and everything so I don't have to worry about it when I'm out riding. Going to pick up the kits today so havent put em in yet but I know that was the problem....

That stuff is AWESOME....I literally use it on everything I can. It's very sticky stuff too so use gloves and be careful. I even use it on radiator hoses on my cars and tractor trailers at work. Does take a while to dry but its worth it

There was some kind of super thin sleeve I cut off after I cut out the remains of the stock slider. Did anyone have to modify the side from it rubbing the swingarm? Or any other part? It deff wont close down all the way because of the end cap where the swingarm is next to has a step so it wont be flush where it wraps around. I'm assuming its a stock swingarm

Got a TM designworks chain slider for my 03 banshee and I got it wrapped around the swingarm part of the frame but it won't close all the way to put the pinch bolt in, seems like its rubbing the swingarm too (or very close). And there's a step that looks like its preventing from fully closing where the chain slider wraps around, I think its a metal end cap with a seal inside. Is that supposed to come out or something? I would assume hell no, Everything is such a tight fit, do these need to be clearanced or normally a direct bolt-in? Thanks

I would pull the carbs and adjust the float level to fix that float fuel leak (unless it's just a worn needle/seat), the float level also affects the tune too. I would use a light and make sure each jet is clean and perfectly circle and unonstructed, first thing that comes to mind when I hear 900rpm and 2k rpm and nothing in between I want to say a clogged jet but I'm no pro in that area but I would do that and make sure both carbs are synchronized, I've seen that make a world of a difference. Search on youtube if you need better instructions on how to do it

lol why the hell Should you be able to be shocked when you grab a plug wire? The whole point of the wire is to transfer the current from the coil to the plug and NOT to let to let it leak out anywhere in between, bottom line is if you get shocked then they're dry rotted or leaking somehow. If they're "supposed to" leak then wires should be ran nowhere near each other nor other engine parts (which is grounded out) and on a car engine there's no way you can have the wires in certain spots where they don't touch something else or close to it.

I bought a banshee with a stage iv Trinity head...Can I use the O-ring kit for a Cool head for this head? Really don't want to wait for shipping for the Trinity ones if the Cool head o-rings are the same thing which I can get from my local shop, and is it true the Trinity head Doesnt use the little o-rings to seel the 10? acorn nuts that hold down the head like the Pro Design Cool head does? Thanks

I honestly don't know since I'm new to the quad and haven't even looked at it but I'm guessing it might be a vent? Like on a auto trans for a car or something which has the loose kinda cap design but just guessing. I'll look next time I work on mine

I was gonna say check the routing too, the routing goes a long way as far as how easy and hard it can be. I once had a moped that had a hard throttle, rerouted it and was 10x easier, same with clutch cable on my mustang, but I vote for the easier carb springs.

Agreed ^^^ If that was the case everybody running alcy would have that issue which I'm sure would be alot. I do know E85 gas (85%) alcohol absorbs the water out of the air, some evo guys (turboed car) catch a noticeable amount of milky sludge similiar to this in there catch can, which is basically a filter to seperate the oil vapors out of the motor. I know these are 2 stroke and are nothing similiar but just saying alcohol pulls moisture out of the air. Either way it's prob a o-ring or seal letting coolant getting in the crankcase

Not sure about 2 strokes but with car engines MANY sources say it's better not to smooth out the intake ports so the roughness helps the incoming air mix with the fuel via turbulence or whatever. Obviously if you're porting it then that's out of the question but many still don't polish the intake after porting for this reason, I don't see why a 2 stroke wouldn't be the same, would you notice a difference? Probably not but just throwing it out there. But with the exhaust ports then obviously make it smooth as possible