traxx2003

Are the Lonestars A arms still available? What color are they? Are they +2 or +3? How much shipped to 93505? Would it be possible to get some pictures? PM me: [email protected]

I apologize! I created this post using my phone, and the $$#@% thing is always changing my inputs. Anyway what I meant to ask is: I just need someone who can explain to me in simple terms the differences between a “Long Travel A-arms & “extended A- arms. I do mainly a lot of desert riding. I’m not planning on ever racing my bike so; I guess my question is what suspension I should get. I’ve read on several treads that “Long Travel” is ideal for desert riding. But I do not like the price difference between the two options. To me they look the same. Anybody care to help? Thanks!

I leed forma someone to explain to me, front suspension i should ver forma recreational deserte riding. I've edad severa threads, that clima that forma deserte Long Travel a arma is therese way to go. Therese cost oficial LT arms is a little higher tan extended. Will extended a arm do the job?

Hey "bigblockbanshee" I'm fairly new to the banshee, what could I do to improve the rear suspension on the bike? Most of my riding will be done out in the desert and trails. No dune riding for me. Thanks!!

Hey 'stacman450" Thanks for commenting on my "fender cutting" thread. Hey I understand that you have the HJR Mx/Hardcore port on your motor. Can you tell me what can I expect from that kind or porting compared to my stock motor? How much did you had the head milled to? Right know my motor's internals are stock, I do have Toomey T-5, +5 timing, VForce3 reeds running 270 main jets/27.5 pilots. Right know my compression is @ 110psi both sides. What compression did you achieved with the milled head? Thanks!!

Well, today I was looking for something to do, and decided to cut my bike's front fenders. I've never done anything like this before, so I hope they came out OK. Well here are some pictures:

Hello everyone! Ok, I now that to synch your carbs basically you need to ensure that both slides are moving at the same time, you also have to ensure that both carbs idle at the same level (hard to do unless you have a synchronometer) and also check to ensure that when you are @ WOT you can see the "silver dot" thru the carbs glass window. But has anybody here ever do "mid throttle" adjustments? Like this you tube video shows: Any thoughts?

Well, after the unexpected fuel loss, I removed both carnal and cleaned them inside out, and I also replaced all fuel lines. The fuel will drip out if the carnal overflow lines.

Thank you all for your replies; I leave at an elevation of 2300-2400 feet. My riding is basically trail riding/ desert riding. Due to the terrain conditions where I mostly ride (California City Ca Desert), I do not spend a lot of time WOT. Basically I'm looking for low end low rpm extra power.Although I do have access to 100 octane fuel ($6:00 + - gal.), I can only get 91 pump gas here in Ca. Thanks again!!! SO what brand of aftermarket head should I go with?

I'm looking to upgrade to a Banshee Cool Head, Was wondering what dome size should I get? I would like to be able to up the compression to about 150+-. If I can reach 150+- for compression, Will it still be safe to run pump gas? Here is my current setup: The Motor inside is factory (current compression is @ 110psi both sides), but I've done some mods: - VForce 3 Reeds - Timing plate= set @ +5 degrees - Toomey T5 pipes - TORS removal mod -Jetting: 27.5 pilot jets, 270 main jets

Hello, I just got my first banshee, the other day after a quick ride, I forgot to close the tank fuel peg, and when I returned outside the fuel had drained out completely (1/4 of tank maybe less). I removed the carbs to check the jetting and to inspect them, everything was fine. I even check the floats and they moved freely. Is this normal if you forget to close the fuel peg?

Ok, recently I purchase a 05 Banshee. Motor is stock with exception of having T5 pipes. I took a short ride the other day and quickly noticed that it was running too loaded. Sure enough the carbs were jetted with "310" main jets. My brother has the exact same bike, with same pipes and running the motor +5 degrees of advanced timing and his carbs are jetted (27.5 pilot jets & 260 main jets) He leaves at seal level, and uses the bike mostly on paved roads & drag racing. Yes, In Puerto Rico you can ride on public roads. He says he does not have any problems with motor going lean. Now, I leave at an elevation of 2360 feet, I guess my question would be; Will his jetting setup work for me taking into consideration the difference in altitude? Thanks!!

I found this compression chart (NOSS) that, if accurate, the compression of my enigne is not that far off from what it should be at, considering that the elevation were I leave is 2360 feet. According to the chart,@ 2000' compression=118psi on stock motor. Mine @2360'= 105psi. Chart Link: http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

Thanks for replying. I asked becasue I recently bought a 2005 Banshee with supposely no more than 30 hours on a stock engine, and my compression readings were 105psi on both cylinders. My engine has never been opened, and the only mod it has is a set of Toomey T5's.

Hello everyone, I just purchased my first Banshee, (2005 Red/White). Everything is stock except T-5's pipes. The engine has never been opened. Today I did a compression test and the results were 105psi per cylinder. I used a cheap "Harbor Freight" Compression tester gauge to do the test. The test was done holding WOT & with the engine at ambient temp, kicked over 10-15 times & both sparkplugs removed. The bike will start within 3-4 kicks every time. My borther has the same bike and his engine compression is 120psi per cylinder. His bike has VForce3 reeds and T-5 pipes as well. I guess what I'm asking is How good or bad the compression on my engine really is? Will after market reeds make a difference? Should I rebuild? Thanks!!! Link for the gauge: http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive-compression-tester-92697.html

Can anyone tell me how much compression an stock motor should have?

I had a similar experience with mine, but mine would idle fine. But at soon as I rev up the engine, only one cylinder would accelerate/fire. Come to find out, the retainer clip that holds the slider needle on the right carb had come off, so even though the slide would move up/down the needle would just stay in its idle/down position, thus starving the right cylinder. I also did a compression test on mine and I had 120psi on both cylinders. Hope is nothing serious.