SlowMoe

From what i read avgas is a slow burning fuel so i was thinking +7 but I would like to have a second opinion before I buy a timing plate (I already have a modded stocker...) Thanks

I had a feeling there would be haters. Have any of you guys ran a reed cage like mine and actually have one come apart? I doubt it. You know why? Because this isn't the first set I've done like this, and I've had plenty enough run time to tell you that they will work fine. I have even cut the center bridge narrower in previous sets. And the comment about them looking like crap...So what....They will be inside my engine where no one can see them. And if they flow 75% + more than the stockers....Who cares what they look like. Although I agree the center bridge "appears" too thin and I actually wanted to leave it a little wider. But my other sets did aight even narrower than these so.......

One thing I advise you NOT to do is grind down the bar at the tip of the cage (horizontal one in the first pic). You can narrow it, but basically don't cut so much where you touch the tip of it and reduce the thickness as measured from the inside the cage to the tip. What happens when you do this is create a steeper angle for the fuel to come across and this hampers high speed flow. You can still cut a good bit from the top and bottom (being VERY careful not to touch the sealing surface). I actually scrapped this cage and cut a new one for that reason alone. Anyways. Main thing is to leave a 1mm surface for the reed to seal against. Before you cut place a petal on there and see just how much you can cut. I am running boysen pro series reeds with the rev plates. If you are using regular reeds or boysens that still utilize the stock reed stoppers you shouldn't have to open it up quite this much.

Well if you have regular boysen power reeds you need to first lose them, port your reed cages and get some pro series, or VF3's. Those reeds won't let your bigger carbs breathe at high RPM's. Then yes, mod your plate to +4, get a good port job I recommend HJR. I'd recommend a dune port if you don't spend too much time on really technical trails. Oh, and if you still have the stock head, send that sucker to get milled and rechambered. You are losing a ton of hp with the stock head. Wow talk about a money pit. But definately the head work, timing plate would be a good start. Then when you have the money saved up for the porting, reeds and carbs I'd do that. Just me.

I loved my hi revs. Good choice.

Seriously though the gnarly is their trail pipe. The fatty is like more of an all around pipe. Call it mid top or what you will, but generally it performs ok in the bottom mid, really good in the upper midrange. Check this out. It shows the difference between a bike with stock pipes and with fatty's and K&N. Notice how the stock pipes came on a good bit sooner, but the fatty's, once they came on pulled a lot further. This would be good for more wide open trails. If the trails you ride get really technical, I'd say go for the gnarly's, which surely come on sooner than the fatys. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=130851

Trade the t-6's for some t-5's, Herr Jugs Racing Dune port. You'll be grinnin from ear to ear

Yeah so I bought a set of 4mm cylinders. Great. If I can't get a refund, I'm thinking about pie cutting the piston crown to bring the transfer duration up to about 132. How much would I need to cut to get there? About 1.5mm?

Ok these cylinders supposedly made 87 hp. They were ported by Dave Moore (DMR Racing) and the port job alone costs over $500. When I bought these cylinders off EBAY I was told they were for a stock stroke, come to find out they are for a 4mill. The pistons are 65.5mm Namura pistons and are for a 110 rod. They are BRAND NEW in the box nd include circlips and wrist pins. $475 shipped

Greeeat. I just measured 55.5mm from deck to bottom of transfers.

I voted gnarlys, not because I ran them before, but because they were designed specifically for trail riding, unlike the popular pro circuit... I actually think my Paul Turner Hi Revs would make a better trail pipe than the Pro Circuits. In my experiences the pro's hit alot harder and would be more tiresome on all but the most wide open trails....The Rev's seem to come on sooner and alot smoother, so I would assume the Mids were even more suitable. PT Mids or FMF gnarly.

Hey whats up. I've got a set of drag ported 350 cylinders done by Dave Moore (DMR), and since I don't have a degree wheel or dial indicator ect I hoped I could get someone to help me figure out the port timing on these things. The exhaust port is 25.78mm from the deck, the transfers are 42.56mm. I will be using a standard base gasket and I do not believe the cylinders are decked. If I'm not mistaken the exhaust duration is around 202*; have no clue on the transfers. The exhaust port is 72% of bore and has a very flat top. I have a stock head that has been milled and rechambered for race fuel and I plan on running 100ll in it (not too serious about being super competitive right now). I have vitos fat [censored] pipes. My first thoughts are that the duration will be a little high for my pipes and fuel but I'm not sure. Actually the Vitos are supposed to be real close to the Shearers...Dunno.. Also I was thinking about enlarging the piston windows some and also opening up the sides of the piston skirts a little to kind of match up with the sleeves; I have seen this done before but am not sure if it will be worth my time....? BTW this is my first set of drag ported cylinders; how does the porting look? To me the transfers could stand to be opened up some, but I know bigger isn't always better...?

Ok it looks like your cylinders have some decent port work already. Do you know if they were ported to a 4mill crank? If not your engine might run less than desireably...

Thanks bro

Just a few options assuming your head is stock and has not been milled IF you run the stock base gaskets with the stroker crank and a cool head you will pick up a few hp over the same stock stroke bike. Mostly in the bottom end/midrange. Or you could run a .080" HEAD gasket with the same results. IF you run a .100" BASE gasket, which is .080" over stock, you will not need any mods to your head, compression would be somewhat similar to stock and you would be good to go. Your port timing would be more radical and you would gain a good bit in the upper mid to top end. OR you can go with a .080" base gasket, stock head gasket and gain some port timing AND some compression and to ME this would be my option if I wanted to increase the performance all around. Actually to be quite frank it appears to me that you don't plan on doing any more mods after the crank and cool head. IMO the gains you will get with that setup and no porting will be marginal and you may be dissapointed. If this is the case and you can somehow get your money back for the crank do that and spend the money on a good port job and get your stock head milled and rechambered by Mull Engineering. The ported engine WILL RUN CIRCLES around the 4mill setup with no porting I guarantee it. Just my opinion

Yeah I just need the little adjusting screw that screws into the cap

Luckily for me it isn't on any mating surface and it will be inside the cases where no one will ever see...

It increases the chances of the cog of the "male" component landing inbetween the gogs of the gear to be engaged instead of on top of them, which is typically what happens when a shift is missed. And Tedd, you think that 150 degrees f is enough to make a gear lose its tempering?

Yeah you definately get what you pay for. I remember someone saying milling the head is s good for 3-5 horse but milling and rechambering is 3-5 on top of just milling. So $75 compared to say $120 or so with shipping and everything.

Yeah I'm getting ready to bolt my engine back up and I wanted to definately port match the cases as well as any other performance/ maintenance mods before I bolt her back up. Does anyone have pics or can explain hor to do this? Also someone mentioned drilling out the crank bearing lubricant holes...What size bit do I use? Anything else? Thanks, Slo

Well?

Might be an extra crack or 2 in there

Ok obviously these pipes are not near perfect. One has been repaired and has a crack about an inch long in it the other had a blow out there is a crack about 3 inches long in a semi circle so it would take a 2x3 patch to repair it. Pipes have a suprisingly broad powerband and make really good power. They just need some TLC. Ok a lot. Anyway might be worth $100 to someone so if anyone is interested I will snap some pics. Come with fatboy silencers too...