SlowMoe

About 50 to 75 bucks. Typically reeds don't "give" you much more power if any unless you are pulling high rpm's like with a ported engine and you need more inlet area than the stock reeds/ cage can allow.

Well in my opinion, you can warp a new snap ring while putting in just as easy as you can taking the old one out and putting it back in. Unless there is some other factor I'm ignoring..

Ok obviously first of all you need to remove the engine from the frame, tear the engine completely apart, remove both rows of gears from the cases and take off the bearings seals and stuff. Now you need to dedicate one area to tearing down and storing your row of gears and another to grinding, to minimize contaminating your parts with shavings and such Ok, first thing I do is take a bunch of pictures of both sets of gears from different angles, in case you forget how everything goes. Next, take your first rack and set it in front of you as shown; take your paint marker and leave a marking on each gear on the right hand side, and on the end of the shaft. This will help you to know which way the gears go on the shaft if somehow you are lost and the pics don't help. Be sure to wipe the oil off the gear before marking Next you pull the row of gears apart. What I like to do as I go is to slide the part (gear, washer snap ring) off and lay the right hand side of the part down on the table, so that when I put everything back together everything is exactly the same as before I took it apart. Start lining up your parts in order from the right to the left so that you know exactly what order to put it back together in. BE EXTRA CAREFUL because there are little thin washers that stay stuck to the gears and can fall on the ground and eventually be left out. Look at each side of each component good as they come out to make sure there isn't a washer stuck to it. Now that you are at this point, you know that everything goes back on the shaft from left to right, and that the side facing up goes on the shaft first. Be sure to take pics of everything lined up like this. Now, what we will do here is take every gear that has 6 cogs and remove every other one, leaving 3. Gears with 3 cogs will not be touched. Before After If a gear only has 3 dogs, leave it alone So on this first rack, there will be 2 gears total that you will be grinding on. The first one I grab is the one to the left. I begin by chopping off the protruding chunk of cog as shown in the photo. Use the least amount of pressure that your patience will allow you to keep from heating the gear too much. Be patient and pay attention to what you're doing so you only cut the cog you are working on. Once you have lopped off the big piece, skip a cog and cut off your next one. The reason I don't completely remove a cog at a time is I don't want to localize the heat too much. Now after you do all 3 you should be left with something similar to this: Now once you have the big cuts done go ahead and feather out the remainder of the cogs until you're left with this: Once you've completely removed all 3 dogs from the gear, go ahead and wash it real good in soapy water and wipe off all the trash and shavings. Put it back where it was in the lineup and do the other one. Once you're done with that one reasemble the row of gears and do the next row using the same steps outlined here. I believe the other row has 4 gears total that need grinding. It will take you 15-25 minutes per gear so be patient and PAY ATTENTION to what you're doing. It can get monotonous and you don't to veer off and cut a good cog all to heck. If you do cut somewhere not intended I suggest you blend the the nik into the parent metal at a 3:1 taper to eliminate any stress risers. Make sure your area used for cutting is well lit. I believe that's about it. Make sure you wear your safety glasses because 30,000 RPM + shrapnel can be bad news for your eye. A face shield would probably be a good idea as well.

Alrighty! Just wrapped up the tranny mod on my bike s I figured I'd share the experience with everyone. Ok if you're not familiar with this mod its purpose is to reduce the amount of missed shifts when shifting under power. I can't comment on its effectiveness but everyone who has had it done seems to think its very worthwhile. I'm sure everyone does it a little different, but this is how I did it: First you will need: Digital camera Paint marker Rotary tool with some inch and a half or smaller cut off wheels Snap ring pliers Protective eyewear (Hopefully nicer than mine) Also leather gloves will come in handy when the part heats up. Don't forget a bucket of soapy water to rinse the gears off in after you cut.

Somebuddy needs some spares

Alrighty then.About 10 to 15 minutes per gear with the cut off tool shown. Just need to touch things up and remove the stress risers. Some of my progress:

Bump. 90 Shipped

Yep I have 3 pistons 72mm cheetah with the 2 sets of holes on the intake side; no rings with the pistons. If anyone is interested I will upload some pics but they are in great shape. $100 shipped

Well I bought some diamond point grinding bits with a high speed rotary tool. Wish me luck!

What type of riding do you do? IMO getting your head milled .030" will get you more power across the board than the reeds. So I'd say +4 mod and mill your head for a noticeable difference.

You have been most helpful. +1

You have got to give us a budget to work with here. What you need to do is save up roughly $500. Then send your cylinders and head to a builder, I like Kevin at Herr Juggs Racing and tell him to: 1. Port your cylinders to your riding style 2. Rechamber your stock head 3. Sell you an aftermarket timing plate, or mod yours. Alot of people will recommend a cool head, which is a decent choice but having your stock head cut is cheaper, it will make more power because it is custom cut to your portwork and your engine will not run much hotter, if any with the stock head. Should bring your banshee from its present state of 40 or so hp to a nice 60-65. If your budget is 100 bucks or so I'd recommend getting the head rechambered according to your future port work. This mod alone should be close to the same difference as adding pipes.

No jackelope. You know how you're reving it up before you launch hard...?I'm no jus sitting there bouncing off the rev limiter

Oh well I done did bought teh bastards

Thanks alot man.

I called him a couple days ago. He's the first guy I call usually; his turnaround time is like 10 days, I don't have that kind of time.. Maybe I'm being paranoid; I just trued and welded it (HJR) less thn 10 running hours ago. Thing is I was riding and my flywheel nut came loose, and now there seems to be a vibration when I hammer full throttle (in neurtal) and let off. Just at real high rpm's, not real bad. Does every banshee do this? I'm just fiddna go all out drag and I don't want anything going wrong...

Is there someone who has the skills and tools necessary to check and possibly true my crank. It has already been welded, so I'm not completely sure it can be trued? I really ca't wait for the 2 or so week turnaround so it would be nice if someone on here had a couple f people who could vouch for them and could get it shiped back to me in say a couple days. Thanks, Slo

Ok in the second pic I am guessing the second gear above your hand is one with external dogs and you grinded them already? It's kinda hard to see..

Can you please elaborate on this? How many gears do you grind total? I'm having a hard time visualizing how you use a die drinder and a drill press... What mods do you have and does it shift noticeably better?

From what I understand, you pull some of the gears off and remove every other cog from inside the gear. I was thinking it may be possible for someone wthout a machine shop... My question is what gears come off, what gears do you grind on, are there any special tools required and is this all the job entails. Thanks! Oh and also would this be a worthwhile mod on a 75 hp bike or would there need to be a full override for it to shift. Thanks!

I taught snipers were for cubs? 4 mills specifically? What about r2's?

Is the pro design cool head one of the better ones out there?