Irishchris

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I have a banshee roller located in Cleveland Ohio. It is complete minus the gas tank. It has works front shocks, DG rear skid, DG bumper, Pro Taper bars, and +1 offset rims. Asking $950 obo. Picture are located here http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g464/cle_chris/

The complete engine a pipes are sold. Im going to make a new thread with what I still have.

I would rather try and sell the engine whole.

But I am open to offers

Yeah I guess that would help lol. It depends on how complete you want it but with the carbs, reeds, stator, flywheel and clutch assembly 1800 plus shipping.

I have a 2001 Banshee with a 421 Serval Engine. Located in Cleveland Ohio. If someone is interested in the engine let me know and I will part out the whole bike. The engine was new last year in July and has about 35 hours on it. Has 150 psi compression on both cylinders. Magna Billet Clutch Basket with Fast clutch with HD springs new this year V force 2 reeds Pro Design Cool Head with 22 cc domes cut for 4mm Crank M & M 4mm Crank with long rods Wiesco pistons New Chain and Sprockets Last Year 30 mm OKO carbs new last year Billet water pump New stator Pro circuit pipes that I painted black Aluminum air box with dual uni filters Dual petcock in gas tank New carrier bearings, swing arm bearings this year Works front shocks with reservoirs New Tusk Nerf Bars Trail tech digital gauge The bike needs tie rods on one side I replace one side this year. The cases have a little chain whack but it does not effect the engine The bike has no title because I had to switch the frame. I do have the original frame with the title but the frame is not usable. Asking 2700 for the complete bike. Or I may part it out if I can sell the complete engine. Also I would consider a trade for any Yamaha or Honda 450 or a 400ex with reverse. I have one picture from last year but I will get more together. http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g464/cle_chris/

I have a good stock crank I don't need it anymore because I upgraded to a 4 mm. $50 plus shipping.

I run one from M&M. I have had it for over a year in a 421 serval with no issues

I'm not 100% sure if there was lock tite on the bolts. Should I use red lock tite on the new ones? Thanks for the info.

Just a quick question, two of the bolts that hold my stator to the timing plate backed out and destroyed my stator and snapped the timing plate where the bolts thread in. Is there a reason for this to happen besides the bolts not having enough locktite? Also on of the bolts stuck to the flywheel and spun around the stator, I don't see any damage but is there any way to tell if the flywheel is now bad? Thanks in advance for the help.

sent you a pm on the nerf bars

Would you take 60 shipped on the nerfs?

What about the on off switch or your key switch? Just a thought I doubt the cdi would have just gone bad. And my serval also likes to jiggle screws out get some locktite for those screws.

I jetted it down to 50 and put a new coil and new plugs in it and now it will idle fine. One question though I let it idle with new plugs for maybe 15 minutes on and off and pulled the plugs out and they still looked new. They were still white, does that mean now its a little too lean? Before even with new plugs they would be brown in only a few minutes.

Like 1000 ft but its already getting cold here. If the pilot was too big would that cause it die? I ran a 55 for the last month without any problems. I do have a set of 50s I can throw in there to see.

yeah I was just seeing what if it was going to make a difference. I usually run a 55. I just took the carbs apart again and cleaned them again they still look brand new inside. The thing will start and run but anything under like 2800 it will just die like its running out of gas. I can see there is gas getting to the carbs because i have see thru lines. And the left side plug looks wetter than the other side.I already switched the coil wires and the carbs around. Any other suggestions?

I have a 421 Serval with maybe 20 hours on it. Last time I had it out it started running rough and sputtering unless I was high in the rpm's and eventually it shut down would not start again. Now it wount idle, I can get it started and keep it aroud 2500 just fine but as soon as I try to get it to idle it starts running really rough and shuts down. It will start right back up on the first kick and do the same thing again. It seems like when its cold it will idle and when the engine warms up is when it wont idle. I took the carbs apart cleaned them really good and put a bigger pilot jet in but it did not change anything. I have 30mm OKO carbs with 165 mains and 60 pilots. The compression is 150 on both sides. Any suggestions on what I should do next to try and fix this?

Can u send pics of the airbox to [email protected]

I have a used trinity stage 4, 2 into 1 carb kit. The kit is used but still works, has a couple of scratches in the aluminum all the parts are there including the throttle cable and a 35mm pwk carb. The carb needs the spring for the top cap and the lite white plastic piece that holds the throttle cable in, I lost them when I took the kit off the bike. Also the carb has a new float and valve. $125 plus shipping. I also have a set of pro design domes 22cc for stock stroke. $30 shipped. Stock head in good shape $10 plus shipping. Here is a link for pictures. http://s1103.photobucket.com/albums/g464/cle_chris/

I run a billet basket and fast clutch and shifts fine.

Yup my serval has way more low end power than the stock cylinders did and it screams all the way through thr top end.

I just built my serval and the power is amazing compared to the stock cylinders. I run 30mm oko carbs and pro circuit pipes.

I run 14/41 with my serval seems to be good