aleyesonme

well that's good to know....how much more did u pay for the drag port since u already had the dune port?

thanks...i really appreciate that...exactly what i needed to know. and thanks to all. well 2 people anyway...lol

let me know if interested

gotcha. so basically are u saying just wait to get it done when im ready to get the other carbs and pipes. Cause im not sure when i will be able to get them. didnt know if i got the drag port if it would hurt with the setup i have now.

Oh ok...thanks...what if I went to inframe shearers?

Hello peeps. I need a lil advice. I do a lot of 300 ft drag.. I currently have t5s, vf3reeds, stock carbs, pods, and a dune port from hjr. I've done a search but can't find what imlooking for. And yes I did call kevin and asked him the difference tween the 2. He said about 8hp more on the drag. I just wanted to know from people that had this same setup and chose to do a drag port what difference did they feel. Just wodering if a drag port is worh the extra 150 over the dune I have now.. I like it now just wondering if anyone has felt that much difference.. I'm asking cause I have it tore down and wondering should I get the drag port with my setup. And later I do plan on getting 35pwks just not now........thanks for any input...

ok thanks people. hopefully its just the rings. tearing it down now. thanks again for all the input

where would i find the right crank seal? and by u saying using one of the site sponsers u mean if they were in driving distance right?

ok peeps, i need some advice. ive searched and found some leads on where to start for my problem. i did all the obvious from switching the wires from different sides to taking the right side carb and thoroughly cleaning and found no issues. check athe choke tube got new spark plugs and yada yada yada. did all the obvious that i could and still just wouldnt hold idle. left side fires great. the spark is also good on right side just doest fire all the time. the one thing that i couldnt do was check the compression. so i broke down and took to shop. when the guy rode it he said it was no way that its running off one cylinder cause he said it has balls. but clearly when i first started that he could see that it was on one cylider. anyway he called me later and said that he checked the compression and the left side which is the good side was 120 while the right side was 100. i havent seen to often up here where both sides were that different. so i have a few questions.. could that be right? and would that cause one cylinder to not fire properly? and what would cause one cylinder to be that much lower than the other. one more thing that i was curious about is that he said he richened the left side needle to compensate for the loss power on the right side. does that sound right? sorry for the long post just wanted to be as accurate as possible. thanks...so what yall think?

Aight...here's an update....I decided to use a lil thought process...so here goes...I went to my local hardware store and got a tap set 5mm to be exact and got 2 washers... on the end of the countershaft there was a lil indention...or hole...so I I tapped it and put a washer on and screwed a bolt to hold the nut on.....worked great..and to back it up...I decided to tap 2 holes on each side of the nut and used 2 hex bolts and tighten them down once the nut was on the shaft...so now I have double protection....haven't ridden it yet but its up there really good...took a few hrs but it beats spending a lot of mmoney...very happy with the outcome.

that's was some really great advice. I will try one of those options...I really thank everyone

hello peeps....in dire need of help...i have search but didnt find anything pertaining to this....anyway i found out today that my countershaft is stripped...does anyone know how to fix this problem without getting a new countershaft...just dont have the funds....could i tap it or something.. any info would be great,,thanks

Ok so I've searched over and over on peoples different setups and their setup...and none are quite like mine. Mods are bored .030, t5s, 2 into 1 k&n, wiseco pistons, and air filter lid with 6. 1 inch wide holes..., and vf3 reeds...I had spacers on it but I read I should take em off...I'm at 800 above sea level...I recently put 27.5 pilot in and kept the 310..still having a low end bogging issue. Just orderd 32.5 pilots and 280 main....can anyone please tell me where a good start may be on the jets....thanks...been at this for weeks now. And yeah it sputters now at between shifts at high rpms...before it didn't with the spacers..thanks.

Does anyone have a stock crossover intake tube laying around....if so I would take it off ur hands asap

if anyone has a set of rear wheels and tires they would like to sell for a decent price please let me know...really dont care how much tread is on the tire...just need a nother set...thanks

Thanks bud...I spent a while trying to set him and still haven't got em right, then ran outta gas...smh...but ofen I would forget what setting I did for each since they are at different positions....guess ill have to mark by the screws so it'll be easier...again thanks

ok.. i am now in the process of setting the air screws...but ive came across a problem...i noticed when i seated both of the screws that one carb seats different than the other therefore causing slightly different positions. so when i do the 1.5 turns out do i just go by the 2 individual carbs or should i choose one and pick a position and do the exact same for both....i automatically assumed that they both should seat the same but i see i was wrong,,,thanks

Nevermind I took the seat off and found it

oook..i went outside just to locate the airscrews but where is it on the right carb. i found it on the left carb but dont see one on the other.?

Ok..since u stated that adjusting the air screws won't generally mess with my upperend then ill get right to it...and great advice about going in and out on the airscrews...seems to be a very valuble peice of info...well I have to work 7 to 7 all weekend so it won't be till Monday before I try anything...AGAIN I THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL THE INFO...I REALLY DO APPRECIATE IT...but ill get back to this post on Monday after I do the adjustments...to share the results...thanks again...stay tuned..ha

I can't tell u enough how much I thank u for taking the time to explain to me everything, everyone else as well but especially muggzy.... Ok anway no I didn't turn my screws in and back out 1.5 turns because my midrange to top end is superb!! I didn't wanna go messing with other stuff and mess around and get those messed up...so I was assumimg by it running so good in those 2 areas that all I would have to do is change the pilot to get mor fuel on the bottom...but you're saying to go ahead and do as u suggested with the air screws and see what happens...will do... btw I do have a manual..its not a clymers..I noticed in this one that the pics are very blurry...guessing the clymers is better... and one more thing with all I said should I go ahead and try to adjust the airscrews even if it runs well on the mid and top...just wanna be sure..thanks.

Is it just me or or does the hole in the 27.5 look like the same size in the 25 pilot jet?

Well fellow members...my 27.5 pilots came in today and put em in...only to have the same problem that I had before...I was so hoping not to...but is it just me or does the hole in the 27.5 and 25 look exactly the same size?

noooope

That was great info just what I needed. And looking for...I found some individual jets on ebay and ordered 27.5s.. hopefully I won't have to adjust the needles...not quite sure how to do that... thanks again all for the advice and help...soon as I get em in ill keep u updated...thanks again..