sprinklerman

Coupe is right.

They might be fine. Also, I like to lightly tighten the reeds while the sealant is curing, let it set a little bit, THEN torque to spec . Sometimes the sealant will let the gasket slip if you apply too much torque while it's still uncured.

Yep. The most inside edge of them has very little meat for sealing surface. Use thick , high quality gaskets, with a very thin smearing of import grey usually does the trick.

I know. But you wouldn't be wrong if you did.

In all honesty I wasn't trying to be a prick. I can be if he prefers.After reading some of his prior posts, I felt like the quickest, safest, most sure fire way to truly solve his problem , was for him to take advise from the guy who built the motor. Anything else for him (based on his prior posts) would be potentially very costly for him. And an exercise in futility. ........imho.

Look bud. I went back and read some of your previous posts and questions to get an idea of what might be inside your realm of abilities. I did that before I posted the suggestion to consult your builder and trust his judgment. It was obvious from your previous posts you need help. Hence my suggestion.

DAF ^ I can assemble and diagnose my own stuff, thanks. Hope your builder can sort it out for you,because it's obvious your incapable of jetting your stuff, or checking your ignition system, or bolting a motor together. Carry on my dimwitted friend.

Yamabond or just get import grey at auto parts store.

It's probably leaking around the gasket, then around the bolt. If the hole dosen't go into the intake, that's the only way it could leak. If you remove the reed blocks and you see a hole on the inside, I'd use morose A/B.

The fact still remains that the guy who you chose to redo the engine SHOULD be the guy to properly answer your questions about said motor. Which PROVES you need to buy clues. Note to self: Dont expect much logic from some of these guys.

For some reason I thought it was Currie motorsports that redid the motor. My mistake. I don't know anything about proformance prototypes.

No problem. All I'm saying is you have the BEST man at your disposal to help you with YOUR/his motor. Call him up and say " Shawn, this thing is a bog bucket...here's my setup, gearing, ties,etc. Should it be this way? " . He should know what his motor should jet to. He should know the HP& TQ he's expecting and at what rpm. He should know what gearing and tires it should pull. If your setup falls within what he thinks it should do without bogging, THEN he would rule all that out and start trouble shooting ignition, etc. But don't you see that HE'S the guy to ask,,because HE should know HIS stuff? All you're doing at this point is second guessing the guy who should know best.

I offered the best suggestion you got in this thread ( based on your skill level). Some people can't be helped I guess.

Loctite on sparkplugs? You work for trinity racing?

So you're getting suggestions that you're going to ignore? Guys are saying you're fat, the builder is saying you're lean. ...who you going to listen to? If you melt it down by going against what the guy who built the motor says, are you going to blame him? If you don't take these guys suggestions, aren't you just wasting their time? See where I'm going? I suggest you call Shawn and figure the problem out, let HIM find what's going on. That's what you paid him for.

Trash can those. Sealing surface looks fubared.

Yeah...knew so much , he burned his shit up . Sounds smart.

Wait a minute. You're going to take the advise of strangers , who know nothing about how the motor is set up, over the guy who built it? Ask Shawn what it needs.

You're smart, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

See above. 1 cup of coffee averages 120-130 MG caffeine.

3 cups of coffee.

Ditch carbs, buy Keihin's ....ride.Also ditch "200w" stator if it's a ricky.

Lockout is great for a duner. Allows you to run a much lighter clutch spring.

In all fairness, RU is right on the oven thing.