Thack82

I'm running the following mods to try to keep my Banshee cool and I still have problems from time to time. I know its getting hot because I can feel the heat coming off the motor, and if I am shooting up 90º hills it will spit a little coolant out the overflow tube. XC racing is hell on a quad, if your going to run and be competitive you better have a good set up that reliable, comfortable, and damn near bullet proof. I have sunk a ton of money into my Banshee to be competitive. If any of you guys know of anything else I can add that would help my set up run cooler please let me know. It's to bad no one has come out with a kit that has a upgraded high out put stator, a custom Radiator Cover, aluminum spacer brackets, and a electric fan and fan housing that pulls air through the radiator and keeps the engine cooler. I think a set up like that would greatly improve reliability, over hauls, and performance. My cooling mods are listed bellow: Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head with 20cc Domes PWR 30% bigger Oversize Aluminum Radiator Billet 3" Ribbed Inline Coolers Mod Quad Billet Water Pump Impeller 1/2 gallon Red-Line ATV Super Coolant 12 ounces of Red-Line Water Wetter 16 Ounces of AMS Dominator Coolant Boost Keep in mind this Red-Line Super ATV Coolant is supposed to cool better and have double the wetting ability of water and cool better than ATV Blue Engine Ice. But make sure you read the back of the jug. It has no Glycol or any other antifreezing agents in it. The Freezing point is 32ºF or 0ºC. The same as water. So when cooler weather comes into play again this fall I will have to drain 30% of it out and add a long life Automotive Antifreeze. 30% Extended Life Antifreeze with GM Dex-Cool. The Dex-Cool Should protect from freezing at tempters as low as -10ºF which is pretty safe for Kentucky, and I feel like the lubricants that the Dex-Cool has in it will aid my water Pump impeller, hoses, and other rubber components. A 20% mix will be okay as long as you don't go into the negative digits. I will probably go with a antifreeze that has GM Dex-Cool because it has a lubricant that would probably benefit my water pump and rubber components, and you can get it in Red or Orange so my coolant wont look like puke when I mix the antifreeze with it. When it comes the time to change my Coolant I think I will go with the ATV Blue Engine Ice and Royal Purple's "Purple Ice" because it has Glycol in it already and it protects from freezing down to -26ºF.

I have a Banshee That I've put together for trail riding and endurance racing and it seems like a lot of my time has been dedicated to riding. I bought my six year old daughter a Brand New Mini Eagle 110cc Automatic Youth Quad off eBay ($540 Shipped) and modded it up. I took the cheap Wheels and Tires off it and replaced them with a set of light weight polished aluminum wheels wrapped in new 13X5-6 Maxxis Razr knock offs ($95.00 plus $20 Shipping), took all the nuts off the bolts and replaced them with nylon locking nuts and used Loc-Tite on the welded nuts, replaced the oil (Mobil 1 5W-40), grease(Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease), and put Prestone D.O.T.-4 Synthetic Brake Fluid in the Brake Master Cylinder. Then I ran up on a great deal on a FMF Power Core 4 Stainless Steel Head Pipe and Silencer for a Yamaha YMF Raptor 90cc (Winning Bid-$63.00 Free Shipping), so I took a chance and bought it it bolted right up and was routed the same way the cheap China Exhaust was. I only had to cut about 5.5 inches off the back of the header where it mounts to the Power Core 4 Silencer and have the guys at work re-weld the Silencer to the Head Pipe. Those changes along with a FMF Jet Kit (80 Main and 15 Pilot) helped out that Mini Quad tremendously. She hangs right in there with all my other buddy's kids on there Mini 50/80/90cc quads, and so far knock on wood I'd say she has over 30hrs of ride time with no problems what so ever. It's hard to believe it performs and holds up like it does. I have a total of $764.00 in everything tires, wheels, synthetic fluids, exhaust, jet kit, graphics everything, and my buddy Jordan spent $2,400 + on a new Honda TRX-90, we haven't got them to race yet but I'd say it will be interesting; she might beat him. So now all I need to do is find my wife a good bike we have been together for six years and I would love her to get interested in riding. My buddy's wife has a 2000 Blaster (She can barely drive it's on clutch number 3) and he rides a 05 Special Edition Raptor 660R and the 6 year old son drives the 2009 TRX-90. I thought about getting my wife a Blaster, but I'm afraid the combination of a 2 stroke, and a Manual Transmission will be to much. She can barely drive a stick shift car and shes the type that gives up easy gets frustrated. So what would you guys think about me buying her a newer Warrior and sending the transmission to some one like Duneable and having them put a Override set up in it with straight cut gears? I read on one forum that they made a pretty nice kit that was set up for trail riding. I think that would be the perfect set up for her, I could get that transmission mod put in bolt on a aftermarket exhaust, skid plates, and a few other things on she would be ready to go. I know a utility quad makes much more since, but I don't want her to be the only utility quad in a pack of sport quads. Any information on these transmissions or anything like them would be very helpful. I don't even know how these Overrides work. Do you use the clutch when you take off? I mean I know nothing about them. Please help me out I know some of you HQ'ers can relate to what I'm trying to do here. It's sad when we all load up to go riding for the day and she stays home and cleans house. So get the recommendations and information coming. Thanks

I built my Banshee for pretty much the same type of riding and racing your doing and I think it turned out pretty good. Over everything else I wanted my Banshee to be reliable and comfortable to ride. I'm not sure where you live or how the XC Guy's cut your Courses but this is how I set my Banshee up. My Banshee was notorious for over heating when it was stock, so the first thing I did was research and add cooling mods. I ended up going with a Mod-Quad Billet Water Pump Impeller, a 30% bigger Aluminum Radiator, Billet in-line Coolers, and a Trinity Cool head with 20cc Domes. As far as your exhaust and Carburetor jetting it sounds to me like you might be running a little on the lean side, I don't know what the problem is with your plugs I'm sure one of these guys on here can help you trouble Shoot that. I run the NGKR-BRE8IX Iridium Plugs in my bike and I haven't fouled one yet. I tried mine out several different ways and this was the set up that I liked the best with the stock Carbs. Stock air box with lid on and snorkel off. $5 Ready Performance Foam Air Filter. Stock Carbs with Motion Pro T.O.R.S. Delete Kit, Vito's Stage III Jet Kit (290 Main Jets, and #30 Pilots). Boyesen Power Reeds in Billet Cages. Paul Turner Mid's/Fat Boy Silencers. That set up really woke my Banshee up in addition to the .020 punch, Hot Rods Crank, +4 degrees Timing, and Wiseco Pro-Lite Aluminum Pistons. I have a tone of low end torque that helps me scoot through the woods at high speeds. to tell the truth maybe a little more than I wanted when I was running a 13 tooth sprocket up front. I switched to that sprocket for more low end power right after I got my Banshee and it was all Stock. After I completed my build the 13 tooth was holding me back. All my Banshee did was spin, then after it did hook the power band was way to short. I ended up going with a 15 tooth up front and I didn't notice any loss of bottom end power. If I hadn't found such a good deal on a set of like new Paul Turner Mids/Fat Boy Silencers I think I would have bought a set of Chrome Plated R2 "ROCKET PIPES" from everything I've read there one bad pipe set up and they sound unbelievable. I'm not sure on this and I know some one will call me out on it but I've herd the R2's are beneficial and make power through out the entire Power Band Low/Mid/High Range. I think those pipes would aid my set up just as well if not better than the PT Pipes. If your going to Race Hare Scrambles comfort and protection is very important, so you need to make sure your bike is set up and comfortable for you, your size, and weight, and add those mods like Skid Plates and frame Guards to protect your bike. I added DG, and Qualex Custom Baja Series Skid Plates, Frame Guards, Rear Bumper, Front Bumper, Six Pack Rack, and Fat Series Nerf Bars to my Banshee and they have protected my bike and held up great. As far as Comfort probably one of the best mods I have put on my Banshee so far is a Streamline Hydraulic Clutch Lever. After I added my performance upgrades I started slipping mt Barnett Dirt Digger Clutch, I shopped around and ended up buying a Drive-Line Heavy Duty Trail and Track Clutch Kit and put it inside of my Billet Barnett Clutch Basket. After I did that I didn't have any issues with the clutch slipping but the pull was so stiff. It would take it out of you in just a couple of hours casual riding. So I knew before I hit the XC Course I had to do something. I ended up biting the bullet and buying the $170.00 Hydraulic Clutch Lever/ Billet Slave Cylinder and it made a huge difference! The Item Description said it would soften the pull by 30% but I think it did much more for me. I don't think I would be able to run my currant 15/42 gearing if I didn't have it. By running a higher gear ratio it required me to milk my clutch a little more when I'm in the woods, and my arm would have been cramped 15-20 minutes into the race. And I guess in order to really be competitive a upgraded Suspension is a must. I run Full Flight +3+1 a arms (FOR YFZ-450SE Shocks), YFZ-450SE Shocks set up for a Banshee and a rider my size and weight by GT Thunder , YFZ-450R (Spindles, Hubs, Steering Stem, and Brakes) up front. In the rear I run a + Forward Powersports +1+1 Heavy Duty Rear Axle, +3 Rear Sing Arm, and the Stock Banshee Rear Shock. I have all my Bearings replaced and upgraded with All Ball's Bearings. As far as wheel and tire set up I run Deep Dish ITP Baja T-9 Aluminum Wheels with the Sport Lock Ring. On the Front I run Aluminum Douglas Yellow Labels with the rolled lip. My tires are Maxxis Razr knock offs (20X11-9 6-Ply AT-111 HD Rears/21X7-10 6-Ply AT-111 HD Fronts). My suspension works great for me and I'm happy with it. I just couldn't pay $2,000 for Shocks and $800-$900 for a set of a arms. Like bansheeman2002 said a longer Swing arm and wider stance does not benefit most XC Racers. It makes it hard to navigate the the slender trails, but my circumstances are a little different. Most of the Thumper's I race against are YFZ-450R's and other quads that have a similar front wheel bases; when the tracks are made they make a trail that will accommodate those quads as well as big Utility Quad's like the Grizzly 700 and the Can-Am Renegades so I can travel the trails with ez. I added the longer rear swing arm because I'm a bigger guy (6'2" 220lbs). This made my Banshee a little bigger it is 3 inches longer and 6 inches wider than it was in its stock form. This helped out the smoothness of the ride tremendously and made my Banshee match my size and weight better and helped me keep from feeling the effects of Premature Fatigue. The extended swing arm also helps me shoot the straight up hills that are on the courses without fighting to keep my front end on the ground. I also drag race at a bunch of the local County Fairs and this aids in my take off and launching ability. You will hear a bunch of guys one has already commented on your thread tell you that my set up is a Cobbled up FAIL and call it junk but it works great for me and the different types of riding riding I do. It all comes down to how deep your pockets are, Who cuts the XC Courses, and what you prefer. This is what I did and It works. Good luck on your XC Banshee. This is a picture of the Racer's/Riders that compete in the Kentucky Off Road Hare Scrambles. This picture should help give you a better Idea of the terain and Quad set ups you might be compeating against.

I agree with him. I have stock jugs punched .020 with a Hot Rod's Crank, Wiseco Ultra-Lite pistons, Paul Turner Mids, Trinity Cool Head (21cc Domes), Boyesen Power Reeds in Billet Cages, Stock Carbs with 290 mains and #30 pilots, and a High Flow Foam Ready Filter in the air box with the lid on and the snorkel off, and no port work. I ran 13/42 gearing on my Banshee and it made it slow, it was great for trail riding but it sucked for racing all the 13 tooth did was make my bike spin and shorten my power band. I'm running 15/42 now and it made night and day difference. Lower gearing has it's place but it's not drag racing IMO.

I ran 13/42 gearing and it was good for the trails but I didn't want to get caught in a open field or river bottom drag racing. My power band was strong but it was short. With 13/42 gearing my Banshee would spin like crazy (I even had new Razor 20X11-9 tires) then I had to shift. By that time my the other quad had a pretty good head start and I couldn't catch up. I built my motor for low end power and with that gearing set up I bet my Banshee wouldn't run 65mph. Before I got caught in that situation again I decided to change out my front sprockets. I ended up going with a 15 tooth front sprocket and left the 42 on the rear. This made night and day difference and really didn't hurt my bottom end at all. I was still able to shoot the same hills I was shooting with the 13 tooth. In the trails I do have to milk my clutch a little more but it's nothing major. I'm running a Drive-Line Heavy Duty Clutch with a Streamline Hydraulic lever. I don't know if the 15/42 gearing will work in every application but it was the key for my set up. The Guys at Drive-Line estimated my horse power based on my mods to be between 50-55 horse power, and like I said before my mods are are low and mid range mods (Paul Turner Mids, Boyesen Power Reeds in Billet Cages, Trinity Stage five head with 21cc Domes, and so on). I'm not sure what mods you have but I would try a 15/42 gearing set up. Your Banshee should take off better (less spinning and help keep the front end from pulling up) and your power band will be longer which results in less shifting which should make your times faster. I guess different set ups like different gearing. The 13/42 set up was sick on my Banshee but it might work with other set ups.

I just got mine Hydraulic Clutch on, and man is it nice. It might be one of the best mods I've done to my Banshee so far. I'm running a Drive-Line Heavy Duty Clutch and a Barnett Dirt Digger Basket. The clutch has held everything I've put to it and its great, the only down side to the Drive-Line HD Clutch was the pull. It was pretty stiff, and with me running 15/42 gearing in the woods it was hell on my hand. The Hydraulic Clutch made a huge difference. I did have a little trouble bleeding it, I ended up buying a Bleeder and Pump from Auto Zone and that took care of the problem.

I just installed a Hydraulic Clutch on my Banshee last night. I haven't got to ride it with the new set up on there, but from what I've seen already I think I'm going to love it. I have a Drive Line Heavy Duty Clutch (with YZF 1000 Components) and a Barnett Dirt Digger Basket. I put the Drive line clutch in it because the Barnett didn't hold up worth a shit. I loved the HD Drive-Line Clutch but the pull was so stiff. So I tried a EZ Pull Lever by MSR, it felt more responsive but it didn't help the pull I ended up buying the Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch set up. I bled mine with a syringe/needle. I installed it then I took the top line loose and used the need and syringe to fill it. After it was full I hooked it up and started pumping it and bled it out just like you would the brakes. I can't wait to get out in the woods and try it out.

SOLD

I got my +3+1 Full Flight a arms (FOR YFZ-450 SHOCKS) with 12 point adjustable Chromoly Heims, and the tie rods of eBay from FullFlightRacing for $380.00 Shipped. I wanted to go with the +2 kit at first but the guys at Full Flight said in order for everything to work correctly I had to go with the +3 a arms. If your running the newer YFZR/YFZX Shocks your front end will end up being +2 with the +3 a arms because the shocks are long (17 inches eye to eye) VS the older YFZ-450SE 2004-2008 shocks that are (15 3/4 inches from eye to eye). It just depends on what you like and what kind of riding you do. My Banshee ended up setting a little high in the front with the newer YFZ Shocks so I went down a tire size in the front from a 21X7-10 to a 20X6-10 and that helped out and made everything match up about right. If I run up on a older set of YFZ Shocks cheap I'm going to sell my newer model shocks and run the older ones. My suggestion would be: Get the Full Flight +3+1 a arms (FOR YFZ SHOCKS) with the Heims, Buy a set 2004-2007 YFZ-450SE Shocks, Forward Powersport's +1+1 HD axle, and run a a set of deep dish wheels.

Check out my post thats two down, Thats what I had to do, and it worked out great. I'll get some pictures posted asap.

I know this is a little late, you posted this about a month and a half ago, but theres a local Machine shop that I know the owner of thats a good buddy of my Dads. He made me a set out of aluminum. I wanted them to look like DG Baja Series skid plates so they would match all my other DG Guards. They turned out great. He made mine for free, I'll try to find out what he would charge to make another set. A mater a fact he sent me 3 a arm skids for some reason? I'll send you some pictures of my DG Replicas that are on my Full Flight +3+1 a arms, and a picture of what one looks like off the Banshee. I redesigned them a little bit I thought front guard should be flipped so it would run with the contour of the bike. so thats how I had them made. Heres the instructions I sent to them. But I'm running close to the same set up as you are except my a arms are +3 vs + 2. Remenber if you are going to use the YFZ Shocks with +2 a arms you need to buy 2004-2008 YFZ Shocks. I'm running 2009 YFZR Shocks on my Banshee and its border in to high in my opinion. As far as the a arm skids go I'll Mail you the extra one I have if you want to get some one local to duplicate it. As far as skid plate fasteners go call DG. I like there fasteners, they hold the skids on good, they look good and clean, Theres nothing to snag on the bottom, and a little Loc-Tite with PERMATEX will keep them from backing out. I recommend PERMATEX Loc-Tite be used on every nut and bolt you put on you Banshee, the Shit works. I think the Fasteners cost around $2.50 each shipped. Any way let me know if you need any help with this, I understand where your coming from; after market a arms are not cheep and you want to protect them. Even if they have a life time free replacement warranty you don't want to be the guy who has to load you bike up early and miss out on a day of riding because you damaged an a arm. Plus it protects the finish. Jim

I will trade this plastic for a Hydraulic Clutch set up like the one pictured bellow, and a couple of front Brake clamps/mounts that will attach to aftermarket a arms. If anyone wants to do some swapping.

I ended up putting Boyesen Power Reeds in my stock cages. I built my Banshee to be a reliable trail rider mostly. I'm helping a friend work on his Banshee some at night now. He let go of a big chunk of money and bought a V-FORCE 3 reed and cage set up. It ended up costing him about $200, he bought them from a guy who had bought them and ended up selling his Banshee. I only payed $69 shipped for my Boyesen Power Reeds. Is there really that much diffrence? What if I mod my stock reed cages will that help? Any information would be great. Send me a message with your thoughts. Thanks, Jim

Well, It's made out of heavy duty heat tempered steel.The forging process involves the shaping of metal using localized compressive forces and different tempters. What do you mean do I know the what the term forged means? I like the way the stock bumper looks too, and the little skid plate thats welded to the bottom of it nice, I'm surprised some of the other bumper manufactures haven't copied it. The Bumper bending under impacts okay I guess, But I don't think it should bend when you hit a one inch ceder tree like the stock one does! I guess if you don't mind riding around with the front of your quad looking like some one beat the hell out of it with a ball ping hammer after you've been on a trail ride its okay. That cheep stock bumpers not going to keep you from bending your frame if you hit something with enough impact to bend the frame.

It was in the box with the HotRods Crank I bought.

If the buyer doesn't want the graphics I will strip them off, wash, polish, and condition the plastic before I ship it to you free of charge. Then you can leave it plain white, or put any graphic kit on it you want. Thanks, Jim

2004 OEM Yamaha Banshee Plastic With Graphics!! Complete set in great shape! White with Ghost Flames! Please waitImage not available I need to sell this plastic so I can finish up my custom Endurance/Trail Banshee. I need a Hydraulic Clutch kit and I'm not buying it until I liquidate some of my spare parts, well that and thats what my wife said I needed to do. So help out my cause. This is a great lightly used Complete set of White Plastic with a combination of two graphic kits, and a lot of other Performance Parts Manufactures Stickers. The graphics are protected by a clear thin U.V. Resistant 3M Vinyl that prevent the power washer from blowing them off when you wash the plastic as well as keep the plastic from fading, and it's added protection. If you want to take the graphics off go to Wal-Mart and buy a can of 3M Adhesive remover, it will bring them right off. My Banshee has never been flipped, they plastics are in NO way cut, cracked or broke. It has always been stored inside under a felt cover. The plastic has always been conditioned, cleaned and polished with a combination of NOVIS Plastic Polish Cleaner and Scratch Remover, PLASTEX Fine Plastic Polish, and PLEXUS (I added pictures of those products to this listing for the buyer's use ). Before I used those products I used Pledge Multi-Surface Cleaner and Conditioner. I did not clean the plastic before I took these pictures what you see is what you get, a little cleaner, conditioner, and polish will really make this plastic look like new. <br style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"><br style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;"> I planed on keeping this set of Plastic, after I ordered my other two sets from Maier, I ordered one complete set of Black Custom "Raptor" Style Plastic from Maier, then I started missing the old Banshee retro look So I ordered a Red set of Maier OEM Style Plastic and a Billet DZUS fast connect/disconnect Fastener Kit so I could swap out the Plastic depending on my mood and what I was doing. The Maier Plastic I bought doesn't fit as well as the Yamaha OEM Plastic, and this set has over $100 worth of graphics and stickers! I also have alot of like new Yamaha Banshee Parts, C-5 Z06 Corvette Parts, LB7 Duramax Diesel Parts, Hummer H3 Parts, and 1993-1997 Camaro Z28 Parts going on eBay, so please take a look at my other take off parts and items from all my toy collection that must go. Shoot me a message if you have any questions. $300 Plus 50 Shipping

I am a little OCD with all my Vehicles including my Banshee. I live in Kentucky and I've got my Banshee set up to trail ride and endurance race. I'm not afraid to get it dirty or ride the shit out of it, but before it goes back home (if its muddy or covered in dust) I take it to the local car wash and wash it off, and detail it before it goes back in the garage. I thought this Fastener set up would be great. I could pull the plastic off the frame in a couple of minutes and get every bit of dirt off everything, not to mention that maintenance jobs will be easier. Oh well I guess I'll find out if this is a Good/Great/Bad mod here in a couple of days when the kit gets here.

I agree, I thought I would like the up-dated look, and I do but I don't want the Raptor Style plastic on it all the time. I filled in the void space thats under the front fenders in front of the Radiator with a Maier 2005 YFZ-450 radiator shroud that I modded. That helped the visual appearance out a lot. There are two things that hurt the Maier Custom Plastic one is the open space in front of the radiator. Two NO graphic kits are made that will fit on the Maier Custom Plastic without hacking them up. I don't know why Maier didn't take the time to work those two flaws out. The main reasons I kept the Raptor Style plastic is I don't expect Maier to continue making it. I don't think it went over as well as they had anticipated. I fixed both of those problems and the Custom front end looks good on my Banshee, but I can guarantee anyone who's thinking about buying it you will miss the traditional Banshee look after a while. By the way Casson is supposed to have all my graphics done any day now, as soon as I get them on I'm going to post pictures of my Banshee with both front ends on here. The guy that making my graphics "Casson" told me last night to let you guys know that he will be offering both kits Custom and OEM replica 2003 Limited Edition Banshee Graphics in any fade or color. He's using High Grade UV protected MOTO-X-VINYL thats 13 mil thick . They also have the Tec-7 adhesive that keeps the car was from blowing them off. The MOTO-X-VINYL he's using is just a little thicker than the vinyl Yamaha uses that is notorious for ripping and taring, but not to thick. I think the standard 15, 16, 20, 25 mil thick vinyl that a lot of company's use like ENJOY MFG, and FACTORY EFFEX use is to thick. Even though they are super easy to put on, I don't think they stick as well as a thinner vinyl. I'm going to sell them for him on eBay and BansheeHQ. I think he's going to ask $175 to $200 for a complete kit in your color choices. I don't think thats too Bad. I payed around $240 dollars for the entire Yamaha OEM kit, and this is printed on better vinyl than the factory uses, and you get to match, or change the colors to your liking. Anyway I'll have to see how they turn out. If you guys are interested let me know.

I should have pictures up here in a couple of days, I'm waiting on my new Graphic kits and my Hydraulic clutch kit to finish out my build. I wanted this fastener set up for 2 reasons. I'm OCD about cleaning my Banshee up after I ride it, and I have interchangeable front plastic. I bought new black Maier Custom "Raptor" Style Front Plastic, and black Maier OEM Style rear plastic for my O4 Banshee that has a red powder coated frame . I liked the up-dated look but I missed the traditional Banshee look. So I ordered a new red set of front OEM Style fenders, a Silver Radiator Cover, and Black Gas Tank Covers from ZM-PERFORMANCE. Then I ordered a 2003 Yamaha OEM Limited Edition Black and Yellow with Silver Flames Banshee Graphic Kit and sent it to my Graphic Guy "Casson Sign's & Graphics" He is making me a replica graphic kit out of moto vinyl and he's replacing the yellow fade with red fade for my OEM Style front plastic. On the Black "Raptor" Style plastic he's replacing the yellow fade background with a solid black back ground and outlining the silver Flames in red. By doing this I can completely change the appearance of my Banshee depending on what I'm doing and the mood I'm in. I wanted a quick effective way to change the plastic out that would hold up to trail riding and endurance racing. I read about these fasteners Yamaha's offering as a upgrade on the new YFZ-450R/X/SE Model quads and thought this would be a great solution in finishing up my build with interchangeable front plastic. This is the Banshee that my graphic kits are Based off of and bellow it is a picture of a Raptor front end that was used on the Maier custom plastic I have. I think it's going to turn out great. If you guys have any other questions feel free to ask.

I put a Magnum boost bottle on my Banshee. I picked it up new off eBay for $5.00, I can't say I felt any power gain or loss but it looks cool compared to the piece of pipe it replaced. Guy's please don't get on my case about this........... but this is my explanation for the performance gains Boost Bottle Manufacturers claim you can get by using the boost bottle on the Banshee. I also was told a boost bottle is used alot for Nitrous, some riders drill and tap the boost bottle and inject the NOS into it. I don't know if there's any truth to that or not but it sounds like a good method of injecting NOS. you guys let me know if you've ever herd of that. The Boost Bottle is supposed to dampen the intake wave that comes back up through the carburetors at a certain rev range. They store/hold the unused gas fumes, then when you crack back down on the throttle you get a burst (Very Small) of highly combustible oxygen saturated gas fumes that feed the engine during the millisecond of time it takes for the fuel to exit the carbs before it reaches the combustion chamber. So it's supposed to improve throttle response, and help out a little with horse power. I've read that the Boost Bottles effectiveness depends on the set up. Bigger gains are supposed to be achieved using a different Carburetor set up than the Banshee is equipped with from the factory. This Dino Chart was printed on the Back of my Boost Bottle package:

I have a JAW'S bumper I like sometimes, But the OEM front Bumper looks the best on a Banshee IMO. The bad thing about the OEM Bumper is its a cheap light weight piece of junk. They wont take alot of abuse. I ended up sending my stock bumper to a Machine shop and had them make me a replica out of Heavy Gauge Forged Steel and had it powder coated Yamaha Silver. I'm good friends with the guy that owns the Machine shop so I might be able to get some other parts (Bumpers, skids, courtesy racks) replicated out of forged aluminum or steel if someone is willing to pay me enough to fool with it. They tried making my front bumper out of heavy gauge polished aluminum but it twisted up when they started welding it, so I was forced to go with the Forged Heavy Duty Steel with silver powder coat. Just thought I'd give you that option as well.

I run DG skids, courtesy rack, and bumpers, and I like it all. I put a Six Pack Rack on my Banshee and it handy. As far as price and quality go I think DG is hard to beat. IMO

I have the Maier Custom "Raptor" Style Front plastic, and new Maier OEM Style front and rear set of plastic so I can switch them in and out depending on my mood and it all fits great!!!

Has any one ever tried using these Kits? The Street Bike guys say they are the shit and they are a available option on the new YFZ-450R/X/SE. I ordered 3 kits (26) last night off the internet and I'm switching mine over from bolts to DZUS Fasteners. Has any one used, tried, or installed these kits on a Banshee? Any input would be great! YFZ450R SE, a few more bells and whistles are released, which will make removing the fenders quicker and easier than ever. Yamaha YFZ450R SE fenders are mounted the with metal, quick releasing, Zeus Clips, which makes fender removal a breeze, and the good news is that they will also be available for purchase for the standard YFZ450R models for those that might want to make the switch from bolts.